Gokayama, One of Central Japan’s Most Remote Villages
When you think of a winter wonderland in rural Japan, Shirakawa-go’s (白川郷) Ogimachi village (荻町) in Gifu Prefecture might come to mind. With its snow-covered thatched roofs and serene mountain backdrop, it almost resembles a European Christmas village from afar. However, this historic village is distinctly Japanese, famed for its traditional gassho-zukuri (合掌造り) or gassho-style houses.
Named after their steeply pitched thatched roofs—designed to withstand heavy snowfall—their shape resembles two hands pressed together in prayer (imagine the praying hands emoji).
What many people don’t know is that Shirakawa-go isn’t the only one of its kind. Just across the prefectural border lies Gokayama (五箇山) in Toyama Prefecture, home to the charming villages of Ainokura (相倉) and Suganuma (菅沼). These villages, along with Ogimachi, were collectively registered as UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1995, preserving a rare slice of Japan’s rural life for future generations to explore.
Last December, my colleague Rhyma and I had the chance to experience the magic of Gokayama firsthand. Despite just a short 2-day 1-night trip, our itinerary was packed to the brim—from staying in a cosy gassho-style house in Ainokura to immersing ourselves in local culture through activities like watching a kokiriko dance performance and crafting our own sasara instrument.
Read on to discover some of rural Japan’s hidden gems and how you can plan your own unforgettable trip to Gokayama!
Getting to Gokayama
Although Gokayama is less accessible than Shirakawa-go, the journey is well worth the effort for those who prefer an off-the-beaten-track destination.
Travellers from Tokyo can reach the area via Kanazawa Station (金沢駅), a major shinkansen stop accessible from Tokyo on the Hokuriku Shinkansen. From there, you can take a local bus (about 1 hour)—though transfers may be required and are low in frequency—or opt for a more convenient taxi charter directly to the villages of Gokayama.
Arriving at Ainokura Village
After about an hour’s drive, we arrived safely at Ainokura, one of Gokayama’s largest villages.
Home to around 20 gassho-zukuri houses, Ainokura retains its traditional charm, with most homes still serving as private residences. A few, however, have been transformed into homestays (民宿 minshuku), restaurants, souvenir shops, and museums, offering visitors a glimpse into the village’s rich history and culture.
Though the village itself is small and can be explored within half a day—including a stop at the Ainokura Traditional Industry Museum and walking towards several viewpoints—immersing yourself in this serene and quiet countryside isn’t something one can experience every day, especially for city dwellers like me.
If time allows, I highly recommend staying overnight for an authentic homestay experience.
Homestay in a gassho-style house
For many visitors to Ainokura, the highlight would definitely be to experience a unique homestay in a gassho-style house, and that was what we did. We stayed at Choyomon (長ヨ門), where the landlady was exceptionally kind and helpful throughout our stay.
The facilities were more than sufficient for a homestay of its kind, and we slept on tatami mats and enjoyed tea and meals in front of the irori. My colleague remarked that it reminded her a lot of her grandmother’s house, and we felt like we were having a sleepover rather than just staying at an accommodation.
We enjoyed a local dinner, which included grilled ayu fish and carp sashimi. As this village is surrounded by mountains and rivers, seafood is scarce, so freshwater seafood is the alternative.
I rarely get the chance to eat carp—it was tougher than most fresh sashimi I’ve had, with an interesting texture that goes well with either wasabi and shoyu or the special walnut dipping sauce.
Be enthralled by the centuries-old traditional dance of Kokiriko
After dinner at the homestay, we had the rare opportunity to watch a private performance of the Kokiriko (こきりこ節), a traditional folk song and dance of the Gokayama Region. Passed down through generations, Kokiriko is a simple yet elegant folk song and dance with roots in Dengaku (田楽), a performing art ritual related to agriculture that emerged around 1,400 years ago during the Taika Reforms.
Typically performed by a group of dancers, Kokiriko is believed to be Japan’s oldest folk song, with its name appearing in numerous historical and ancient documents. However due to spatial constraints, only one dancer performed at our private show.
The performance is accompanied by traditional instruments, including the sasara (ささら) held by the dancer, a wooden percussion instrument made of linked slats, the taiko drum, bamboo flute called shakuhachi (尺八), and most importantly the bamboo kokiriko sticks, creating a rhythmic and enchanting atmosphere.
We soon learned that, as an isolated region in Central Japan, Gokayama’s Kokiriko embodies the essence of its rich heritage. While the true meaning behind the prose recited during the performance remains uncertain, Kokiriko is believed to serve as a prayer for bountiful harvests—an enduring wish for the community to thrive in harmony with nature’s blessings.
To this day, Kokiriko continues to be performed at important ceremonies throughout the region and shared with visitors from around the world.
After being captivated by the graceful Kokiriko dancer, I was surprised to discover an interactive element in the performance—we were personally invited by the dancer to join in! As they guided us through the dance moves, which were simple to follow yet deceptively difficult to master, we were also taught how to play the sasara, which produced a satisfying sound similar to an applause.
Make your own sasara, a unique souvenir from Gokayama
Even after the Kokiriko folk dance had ended, I found myself replaying the captivating performance in my mind. The rhythmic clatter of the sasara was especially addictive—it echoed in my thoughts all night as I lay in my warm futon, eagerly anticipating the region’s first snowfall. So, when I learned that we would be making our own sasara the next day to bring home, I was beyond excited!
As briefly shared earlier, the sasara is a traditional wooden percussion instrument used in the Kokiriko dance, producing its signature rattling sound. It consists of dozens of thin wooden slats, typically made of Japanese cypress or cedar, strung together with a cord. When played, the slats ripple against each other in a wave-like motion, creating the mesmerising, applause-like sound that is both sharp and rhythmic.
Crafting the sasara turned out to be a meticulous process. Under the patient guidance of a skilled craftmaster Ose-san (大瀬), we carefully arranged and secured each wooden slat. Though the steps were repetitive, the precision required was intense—one small mistake, and we would have to start over! Ose-san made it look effortless, but that’s only because she has done this for decades!
Despite the challenge, the experience was incredibly rewarding, and by the end of it, I had my very own sasara—a piece of Gokayama’s rich cultural heritage to take home.
Before we wrapped up the session, Ose-san also taught us how to play the bamboo sticks that accompany every Kokiriko performance. You might wonder, how complicated can it be to make sounds by hitting two sticks together? Well, there’s actually a specific pattern and technique for holding and moving the sticks. Let’s just say it’ll take me some time to master it and be ready for a Kokiriko performance!
Murakami Residence: A Window into Gokayama’s History
Even if you’re visiting Gokayama just for a day, a stop at the Murakami Family Residence is highly recommended. Built approximately 350 years ago, this historic gassho-style house is one of the oldest in the region and has been carefully preserved to maintain its authenticity. It was designated as a National Important Cultural Property in 1958.
Nestled in the heart of Gokayama, the Murakami Residence offers an immersive experience in the area’s rich history and traditions. Inside, thousands of artefacts are on display, and visitors can listen to first-hand stories from the master of the house around the irori.
The house itself is a testament to Gokayama’s architectural heritage. Built without nails, the structure also features a spacious attic once used for silkworm cultivation.
Here, we further learned that despite its remote location, the people of Gokayama thrived through three key industries, each tied to the changing seasons: from spring to autumn, they raised silkworms to produce raw silk; in summer, they gathered ingredients for gunpowder; and in winter, they crafted traditional washi paper.
Washi Paper: Prized Local Craft from Gokayama
Since we visited in winter, we thought it would be fitting to try our hands on one of Gokayama’s local and highly-preserved crafts: washi-making.
Washi (和紙) literally translates to “Japanese paper” and refers to a traditional, handcrafted material made from kozo (mulberry tree) fibres. It is known for being both durable and delicate. In Gokayama, washi-making is a centuries-old craft, and the paper produced here is highly-prized for its exceptional quality and strength.
While washi-making has declined due to the rise of Western paper, Gokayama remains one of the few villages that still preserve this traditional art. Local artisans have passed down their techniques for generations, ensuring that this cultural heritage continues to thrive.
At the charming old house where we had the opportunity to take part in this unforgettable experience, the washi master guided us through each step of crafting our own washi paper from scratch—from carefully scooping the pulp mixture with a traditional wooden mold and bamboo screen to gently steaming our final creation for drying.
For just ¥800 (as of December 2024), you’ll walk away with a one-of-a-kind souvenir that captures the essence of this ancient craft unique to this region.
Of course, if you prefer to leave it to the professionals, you can still support the craft by purchasing a beautiful handmade item from the souvenir shop—everything from delicate washi postcards to charming washi dolls and trays, all handcrafted and painted by the skilled artisans of Gokayama!
Gokayama Tofu: A popular local delicacy
Gokayama cuisine reflects the region’s deep connection to its natural surroundings, with ingredients sourced from the mountains and rivers that sustain the local way of life, from the likes of local turnip, Gokayama soba—made with the region’s abundant buckwheat—and tempura.
One standout specialty is Gokayama Tofu (五箇山とうふ), which is so firm and dense that it can be tied with a rope and carried without breaking. Made using the area’s pure spring water and locally grown soybeans, it is carefully pressed with heavy stones to remove excess moisture, resulting in an exceptionally rich and flavourful tofu.
At Kihei Shouten (喜平商店), a tofu shop with over 100 years of history, we had the chance to try it in three simple yet delicious ways—paired with shoyu, salt, and olive oil—each enhancing its natural taste. It was so delicious that I couldn’t resist bringing a block home to share with my family!
To our delight, we soon discovered that the third-generation owner of Kihei Shouten was one of the performers from the Kokiriko dance we had watched the night before! As the town’s population declines, Kihei-san dedicates himself not only to his tofu business but also to the Kokiriko Preservation Society, where he plays an active role in promoting the region’s tourism and performing Kokiriko regularly for visitors.
Getting to Gokayama with the JR Hokuriku Arch Pass
Gokayama seems to live under the shadows of its more popular cousin Shirakawago, but if you value tranquility and untouched landscapes, Gokayama is an idyllic escape that rewards visitors with its unique culture and an immersive step back in time!
If you’re travelling to Gokayama via Kanazawa from either Tokyo (about 2.5 hours) or Osaka and Kyoto (via Tsuruga, between 2–3 hours) and making several journeys during your trip, consider equipping yourself with the Hokuriku Arch Pass! A joint discounted rail pass offered by both JR East and JR West, this 7-day pass offers unlimited rides on the Hokuriku Shinkansen and selected rail lines, specially for foreign visitors travelling to Japan.
Goodbye Gokayama!
Visiting Gokayama was an unforgettable experience—through all of our five senses, my colleague Rhyma and I were exposed to the natural beauty and rich culture of rural Japan, as well as the warm hospitality from the locals. I was particularly moved by each resident’s involvement in keeping their village’s heritage alive.
From exploring serene gassho-zukuri villages to watching the Kokiriko dance and creating your own sasara, we truly felt that Gokayama offers experiences that will linger with you long after you leave.
If you’re inspired to visit, planning your trip is now more convenient than ever! You can make reservations for such tour plans directly through Nanto City’s official tourism website (reserve here), and you can also visit Gokayama’s official tourism website website where you’ll find a wealth of information to help you make the most of your stay.
There’s even a live camera hosted by Nanto City where you can have a glimpse of the village online!
Take the leap and experience the magic of Gokayama—it’s waiting for you!
