In Singapore, the only trains the locals have are those on the mass rapid transit (MRT) system. As an island with just over 6 million people, the country is relatively small so we don’t see the need for trains for long-haul travel. I grew up thinking that rail travel was just another mode of transport… until I took my first train in Japan when I first travelled there more than a decade ago.
For this article, I will share with you the joys and charms of travelling by rail, and why I want everyone to go on a rail journey (鉄道の旅 tetsudō no tabi) in their lifetime. By the end of the article, I hope you have many ideas to plan your next journey and be off on your new rail adventure.
① An all-round sensory experience
What does “rail travel” mean to you? In the past, I used to think that rail travel was simply about getting from one place to another by train. A mode of transportation, no more, no less. Rail travel doesn’t mean much in the context of Singapore; as an island smaller than the size of Tokyo’s metropolitan area, a country of such size would only need trains for pragmatic purposes.
My worldview for rail travel changed when I travelled to Japan for the first time more than 10 years ago. It changed the way I see travelling by train as a whole: not just a mode of transportation, but an entirely new experiential journey in itself. Rail travel can take on a whole different meaning in Japan, and over the years I gradually learned how fun—even life-changing—rail travel can be.
I remember the first time I rode Joyful Trains, which is JR East’s collection of trains with special themes to showcase to passengers that rail travel isn’t just about getting to their destination. It is about how they get there, whether it’s by enjoying some of Niigata’s best sake on the Koshino Shu*Kura or indulging in Fukushima’s finest fruits and desserts on the FruiTea Fukushima. For two Joyful Trains that I rode—Oykot and Resort View Furusato—it is about going back home to the countryside, far away from the hustle and bustle of urban life.
Different sights and sounds
Both trains depart from JR Nagano Station (JR長野駅), and I hopped on them without knowing what to expect. I was delighted by Oykot’s retro interiors and the warm reception of the train staff onboard, a stark contrast to more sleek takes of the modern trains I usually see elsewhere. Sitting on the upholstery seat designed to invoke memories of visiting grandma during summer, I looked out the window as the train made its way out of central Nagano and into the rural areas of Iiyama… and then that I realised one of the biggest pleasures of rail travel.
When I travelled by train, I learned how it enabled me to witness sceneries I never thought I could see. As Oykot made its way through Iiyama’s countryside, I got to see majestic snow-covered mountains and massive rivers, all of which I might not have been able to see if I had gone on a self-drive or a bus ride instead. The breathtaking sights and soothing sounds of the chugging train were foreign yet familiar, and it made me feel like I was discovering a new unexplored area, a place completely unfamiliar to me but the locals would call home.
Visitors who travel to Japan repeatedly can vouch for the country’s sheer colourfulness of the seasons, be it spring, summer, autumn or winter. Personally, no matter how many times I travel to Japan, I am always taken aback by how vivid the seasonal colours are. For example, when summer approaches the snowy highlands of eastern Japan, the snow melts and young leaves begin to sprout on trees. These leaves are vibrantly emerald, and are unlike most leaves I know when I first laid my eyes on them.
When travelling on a train, I can see such brilliant colours before my very eyes as the train passes by, from the pinkish hues of cherry blossoms in spring, and vibrant emerald leaflets of the summer, to the fiery red falling maple leaves in autumn, and the milky-white fresh snow of the winter. It’s a refreshing voyage that excites the senses and cleanses the soul, and also a reminder that Japan’s natural beauty is always amazing.
A good time for self-reflection
Unexpectedly, rail travel allowed me to do the one thing I love during any travel: to be lost in my thoughts and surroundings. The amazing views of the outside world from inside the train, and the soothing sounds of the chugging train, enabled my mind to meander to places it doesn’t usually do in daily life. There’s something about looking at the outside world from inside the train that makes me wonder about things I don’t usually do, whether it’s about my life choices or even alternative lifestyles: “What would my life be like if I were to live in the countryside?”.
People travel on trains for various reasons: for commuting to work, for leisure travel, for going back home in the countryside. Trains in Japan have served passengers from all walks of life, including foreign visitors. The relatively slow pace and idyllic setting of rail travel make for a conducive environment to observe people getting on and off the train, and I realised how this mode of travel lets me get in touch with my senses.
Rest & relaxation
When I’m on the train watching the views outside, I don’t have to be alert about anything around me. Unlike driving in a car, I don’t have to keep my eye on the road. Unlike being on a tour bus, I don’t have to worry about motion sickness. And definitely unlike long-haul flights, I can easily stretch my legs and even walk around the roomy train carriage if the journey is long (train carriages in Japan are very spacious and comfortable). Rail travel, unlike other modes of travel, allows me to relax and take in everything around me.
Novel experiences
Another thing I discovered when I first travelled to Japan: they have revolving seats. Some long-haul trains have chairs that can be rotated, allowing passengers to be able to be seated in a group, or depending on the direction that the train is moving. Some trains even have box seats, and others even have seats that directly face the windows, allowing passengers to view the outside without having to turn their bodies.
Wandering tastebuds
People travel to Japan for beautiful sceneries, amazing hot springs, and the four seasons. In short, to experience things they can’t back home. As a Singaporean, I can empathise: our sceneries are limited, we don’t have hot springs to dip into, and there’s no such thing as seasons here. But there’s one more thing we also can’t do back home: eat on trains. In Japan, however, you can; in fact, visitors to Japan should do it.
One of the biggest pleasures of rail travel in Japan is to indulge in an ekiben (駅弁 train station lunchbox). Eating on long-haul train journeys is perfectly fine, and train stations all over country sell all kinds of ekiben. Each ekiben reflects the uniqueness of the region it’s sold at: some showcase the region’s local delicacies—such as Kakimeshi (かきめし) in Hokkaido, or Ebi Senryō Chirashi (えび千両ちらし) in Niigata—while others even exhibit the region’s local traditional craft. In fact, there are even “restaurant trains”: passengers can enjoy fine dining on TOHOKU EMOTION and KAIRI, two Joyful Trains by JR East.
② Making new discoveries
As an expansive country, Japan has several modes of transport for long-haul travel, including rental cars, buses, trains and domestic flights. For travelling long distances, the most common choice would be taking a plane. Trains are also an option, although it may be more time-consuming compared to flights, but if there is one thing rail travel can provide that flights can’t, it’s discovering places you never thought you’d pass by.
The new and unfamiliar
Sprawling rice paddy fields, magnificent mountain ridges, seas that stretch the entire horizons. These are the kinds of sceneries visitors from other countries come to Japan for, but there’s another common trait about them: they’re something you can only experience while on a train. Riding on a train enables me to have a full view of the surrounding natural scenery that I can’t back home.
I learned how my goal of travelling can change once I discovered rail travel; it opens up new possibilities that flights or self-driving can’t provide. For example, it never occurred to me in the past that I could take a train to a JR train station with the highest elevation in Japan. HIGH RAIL 1375 not only enables that, but also allows passengers to experience the vastness of the Yatsugatake Mountain Range, go up to the highest JR train station in Japan (Nobeyama Station), and even take part in stargazing.
Not your regular train station
When I visited Japan for the first time, I noticed how larger-than-life some train stations are. Some reflect the country’s historical Western influences, such as Fukuoka’s Mojikō Station (門司港駅). Others exhibit a more traditional architecture, ranging from the imposing to the rustic, such as Kareigawa Station (嘉例川駅). And of course, there’s Tōkyō Station (東京駅), the flagship train station of Japan. Not only is it known for its high ridership, numerous train platforms and extensive underground mall, but it is also famous for its iconic red brick building on the Marunouchi side, which has survived World War 2 and underwent major facelifts over the years.
When embarking on a rail trip, before getting on board your train, I always remember to take in the surroundings of the train station I’m departing. It might not be a regular train station, and just maybe, the town I’m in has hidden gems that I could’ve missed.
③ Solitary enjoyment
Going solo
Everyone has their travelling habits: some people prefer travelling to new countries, others prefer to travel with their friends and families, and some have a thing for travelling on a whim without planning. I also have my travelling habit: I love travelling by myself, and as a solo traveller, I will say that rail travel in Japan is one of the best ways of travelling alone.
I’ve embraced solo travelling ever since going to Japan by myself years ago, and since then I’ve learned to do so in other countries as well. It’s nervous and exciting―come to think of it, being nervous and excited are kind of the same―because of the true freedom of travelling without any companionship, and just fully devoting my attention to my surroundings.
Planning made easy
Running on time is perhaps the most outstanding characteristic of Japan’s trains. Those with plenty of experience in travel planning would intimately know how tardiness can throw one’s plans into chaos, and inevitably mess up their holiday experience. Japan’s trains are known for their punctuality, which makes travel planning much more manageable. In all my travels around the world, Japan is perhaps the one place where rail travel is essentially worry-free.
Speaking of travel planning, rail travel in Japan is generally made easier not just because of its punctual trains, but also its readily available information. Many long-haul trains in the country have timetables with predetermined departure and arrival times―made possible because of its affinity for punctuality―so planning for rail travel is much more feasible. This works in favour of travellers with limited time on their hands, and constantly wondering: “Where should I go if I have XXX days?”.
Unforgettable train window views from Resort Shirakami. | ©JR East / KoboriAs a Singaporean, I always find it a pleasure to travel to Japan, for it has many wonderful things that my home country lacks. Since my first experience travelling to Japan, I gradually realised how rail travel is surprisingly one of the best ways to enjoy all the wonderful things in Japan. The carefree nature of rail travel allows me to engage in self-reflection and introspection, a temporal escape from daily life so that I can take a step back and look at life differently. I feel that it’s the kind of life-changing experience that everyone should go on. I was (and still am) charmed by rail travel; I think you, my dear readers, should be too.
Closing
JR trains are run by private companies, so train fares are not always thought to be the cheapest. The truth is when they were wholly operated by Japanese National Railways (JNR), the price increased regularly. Only after JNR was privatised into JR Group in 1987, and trains began to be operated privately, train fares have been generally stable even to this day (aside from consumption tax).
Furthermore, there is plenty of rail passes that visitors can choose from, which allows unlimited rides on selected trains in valid areas. Visitors can even stand to save money by purchasing the right passes based on their travel plans. So, what are the rail passes available for you to consider? Here are some by JR East for your next rail travel adventure to Eastern Japan.
JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area)
The JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area for 5 consecutive days. It’s only ¥30,000, making it a considerable option for those planning to visit the Tohoku Region. You can also make seat reservations online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area)
The JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area) is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area for 5 consecutive days. It’s only ¥27,000, making it a considerable option for those planning to visit Nagano and Niigata. You can also make seat reservations online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
JR TOKYO Wide Pass
The JR TOKYO Wide Pass is an affordable pass offering unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) in the valid area for 3 consecutive days. At ¥15,000, you can use it to travel from Tokyo to GALA Yuzawa, and many other places within the designated areas, such as Nikko, Karuizawa and more. You can also make seat reservations online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
Header image credit: (clockwise from top left) 橋本翔也, U-Media, JR East, KrobkruengJapan
