Ask me what my favourite city is in Japan, and instinctively I will say Sendai (仙台). It is capital city of Miyagi Prefecture (宮城県) and the largest city in the Tohoku Region (東北地方), and its central location makes it easy for people to travel from Tokyo to other parts of northeastern Japan. On top of that, the city also bears the nickname “City of Trees” (杜の都 Mori-no-Miyako) for its lush greenery.
Historically, the area has enjoyed good rice harvests, which has made Sendai prosper immensely for generations. Today, the city is still growing and attracting people from around the country and the world, turning it into a cosmopolitan epicentre rich in greenery and traditional culture.
For this article, I would like to highlight the charms of Sendai, by introducing some of Japan’s most prominent historical relics here, the magical natural scenery of its suburbs, lesser-known delicacies in Sendai and surrounding areas, and a lot more. The city has something for everyone, especially for someone like me who appreciates a bit of everything for any trip.
① Timeless treasures
Osaki Hachimangu Shrine
Sendai is home to Osaki Hachimangu Shrine (大崎八幡宮), one of Japan’s most significant historical monuments in Japan. Founded in 1607, the Shintō shrine is a prominent National Treasure that was originally built for Date Masamune, and since its establishment, many people throughout generations have come here to pray for good luck, avoidance of misfortunes, and easy childbirth.
The shrine is also the site for a spectacular winter event in Sendai. The Donto-sai Festival (どんと祭 Donto-sai) takes place on 14 January every year, when people come here to pray for good health and family safety by burning New Year’s decorations in a big sacred bonfire on the shrine grounds called gojinka (御神火 god fire). There’s also the hadaka-mairi (裸参り naked pilgrimage), where male participants don traditional white loincloths and brave the cold as they march silently to pay their respects.
Osaki Hachimangu Shrine (大崎八幡宮)
Address: 4-6-1 Hachiman, Aoba, Sendai, Miyagi 980-0871
Access: 20-minute bus ride on the Sendai Loople Bus from JR Sendai Station’s West Exit bus terminal
Sendai Toshogu Shrine
Another significant historical remnant to look out for is Sendai Toshogu Shrine (仙台東照宮). It is a Shintō shrine built to enshrine Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川家康), the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate that ruled Japan in the Edo Era (1603–1867), and there are over 100 of them throughout Japan.
Visitors can admire the shrine’s quaint and traditional architecture, such as the Zuijinmon Gate (随神門) and the worship hall, but also experience the beautiful cherry blossoms here during spring. Pale pink and white cherry blossom petals carpet the shrine grounds, making it one of the most popular spots for cherry blossom viewing. Also, while you’re here, you can visit the souvenir shop where a wide variety of amulets are available, from those made for good health, to even those devoted to traffic safety.
Sendai Toshogu Shrine (仙台東照宮)
Address: 1-6-1 Toshogu, Aoba-ku, Sendai 981-0908
Access: 5-minute walk from JR Toshogu Station (JR東照宮駅)
② Modern city areas
Sendai City
As the largest city in the Tohoku Region, Sendai is gradually growing in size, both in population and economy. The city’s urban areas are also rapidly developing at the same time, with new modern commercial buildings and entertainment complexes gradually appearing in recent years.
Sendai’s urban area centres around JR Sendai Station (JR仙台駅), the city’s main railway station, and upon setting foot here from the station, visitors would be pleasantly surprised by the city’s iconic extensive overhead bridges, modern structures, and famous Instagram-worthy avenues Aoba-dōri (青葉通り) and Jozenji-dōri (定禅寺通).
Visitors making their way to the city via JR Sendai Station can also pay a visit to the third level, where there are avenues featuring many restaurants that specialise in local dishes such as sushi, gyūtan (牛タン), and zundamochi (ずんだもち). Visitors here will find Gyutan Avenue (牛タン通り), Sushi Avenue (寿司通り), Zunda Lane (ずんだ小径), and so much more, and they will be spoiled for choice.
There are plenty of interesting places in Sendai that are only a few minutes away from JR Sendai Station. For example, a 5-minute walk from the station and you will find the Sendai Morning Market, where you can find the freshest seafood caught from the Sanriku Coast. The air is filled with lively voices by friendly shopkeepers who are more than happy to introduce their best seafood products. It’s a fun and unique experience that’s worth getting up early for.
Rakuten Seimei Park Miyagi
This one would immediately speak to sports fans, especially baseball enthusiasts. Baseball is arguably the most popular sport in Japan, and Rakuten Seimei Park Miyagi (楽天生命パーク宮城) is a ballpark that has hosted some of the biggest games in Sendai. The venue is home to the Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles local baseball team, and has undergone many renovations over the years.
What makes this ballpark different from other average baseball stadiums is its “ballpark” concept, resembling more like a Major League Baseball venue than a typical baseball stadium. It features seat extensions and a party deck, a large electronic screen that spectators can see from across the field, and many shops around the ballpark.
Although primarily used to host baseball games, the ballpark also serves as a venue for other events as well, and features over 60 restaurants within and around it. In addition, there are other attractions nearby, such as a Ferris wheel and a merry-go-round, making it a venue that’s fun for everyone, including families with kids.
Rakuten Seimei Park Miyagi (楽天生命パーク宮城)
Address: 2-11-6 Miyagino, Miyagino, Sendai, Miyagi 983-0045
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Miyaginohara Station (JR宮城野原駅)
Sendai Umino-Mori Aquarium
If you’re a fan of aquariums, make a trip to the eastern side of Sendai and enter the Sendai Umino-Mori Aquarium (仙台うみの杜水族館), where you can witness up to 100 huge water tanks featuring the most beautiful sea creatures gathered from all the world, drifting gracefully in the crystal clear water. Here, visitors can learn more about the wondrous marine life, and take part in intimate activities such as feeding the penguins and taking closeup photos with the dolphins. There are also live performances where visitors can watch dolphins and sea lions performing amazing acts.
Sendai Umino-Mori Aquarium (仙台うみの杜水族館)
Address: 4-6 Nakano, Miyagino-ku, Sendai, 983-0013
Access: 20-minute walk from JR Nakanosakae Station (JR中野栄駅). Alternatively, take the complimentary shuttle bus service from the station to the aquarium.
JR Fruits Park Sendai ARAHAMA
JR Fruits Park Sendai ARAHAMA (JRフルーツパーク仙台あらはま) is a sprawling fruit park located on the eastern side of Sendai, and visitors can enjoy eight fruits that are specially cultivated here: apples, strawberries, pears, blueberries, grapes, figs, kiwis, and gooseberries. Take part in a 30-minute, all-you-can-eat strawberry picking experience, and savour all the delicious strawberries to your heart’s content. Don’t miss the “Nikoniko Berry”, a local Miyagi Prefecture type of strawberry with a perfect balance of sweetness and tartness.
There’s also a café here that serves delicious food prepared with ingredients grown locally, and Arahama Marche, a specialty shop here that sells goods such as homemade jams and locally grown vegetables.
The park was opened earlier this year, 10 years after the Great Eastern Japan Earthquake and Tsunami (東日本大震災). The surrounding region was severely affected by the earthquake and tsunami in 2011, and many homes and crops in the district of Arahama (荒浜) were destroyed. When the local communities were relocated, JR East Sendai Terminal Building wanted to restore the smiles and happiness of the local people, and thus embarked on a revitalisation project that included the establishment of this fruit park. Visitors to the park can also visit the Former Arahama Elementary School and learn more about how the disaster affected the locals’ livelihood and revitalisation efforts.
JR Fruits Park Sendai ARAHAMA (JRフルーツパーク仙台あらはま)
Address: 17-1-2, Arahamashin, Wakabayashi, Sendai, Miyagi 984-0034
Access: From Sendai Subway Arai Station (荒井駅), take the Sendai City bus from the No. 2 stop and get off at Shinsai-ikō Sendai Shiritsu Arahamashōgakkō-mae (震災遺構仙台市立荒浜小学校前). The park is a 5-minute walk from the stop.
*Reservation is required for strawberry-picking, and all reservations must be made at least 1 day in advance, before 4pm.
③ Cherry blossoms abound
Cherry blossom viewing (花見 hanami) is one of Japan’s favourite pastimes, and sites featuring cherry blossom trees are everywhere in the country. Of course, Sendai has its share of parks that offer wonderful views of cherry blossoms in its urban areas, and they typically bloom from early to mid-April (depending on the current weather conditions). Let’s check out where we can see these beautiful flowers the next time we set foot in the city area.
Nishi Park
Hailed as one of the best cherry blossom viewing spots in Sendai, Nishi Park (西公園) is located along the Hirose River, and is just a stone’s throw away from Omachi Nishi-koen Station (大町西公園駅). This is the city’s oldest park, with its history stretching back as far as 1888, and there are up to 190 cherry blossom trees here. There is also a traditional teahouse nearby where visitors can enjoy some traditional rice cakes, which make for a perfect accompaniment for cherry blossom viewing.
Nishi Park (西公園)
Address: 1-3 Sakuragaoka Park, Aoba, Sendai 980-0823
Nearest station: 1-minute walk from Sendai Subway Ōmachi Nishi-koen Station (大町西公園駅)
Tsutsujigaoka Park
Tsutsujigaoka Park (榴岡公園) is often regarded by locals as one of the best places to view cherry blossoms during spring. There are over 360 cherry blossom trees in the park, and they include varieties such as Somei-Yoshino (ソメイヨシノ Yoshino cherry), Shidarezakura (シダレザクラ weeping cherry), and even the rare ukonzakura (ウコンザクラ turmeric cherry blossom), which is known for its unusual yellowish hue.
Tsutsujigaoka Park (榴岡公園)
Address: 1-301-3 Gorin, Miyagino, Sendai, Miyagi 983-0842
Access: 1-minute walk from JR Tsutsujigaoka Station (JR榴ヶ岡駅)
Mikamine Park
A 30-minute walk from Nagamichi-Minami Station on Sendai’s Namboku Subway Line is another of Sendai’s beloved cherry blossom viewing sites: Mikamine Park (三神峯公園). There are over a whopping 750 cherry blossom trees from 28 different types here, such as Somei-Yoshino, Shidarezakura, and Yaezakura (ヤエザクラ eight-layered cherry blossom).
Mikamine Park (三神峯公園)
Address: 1-15 Mikamine, Taihaku, Sendai, Miyagi 982-0826
Access: 30-minute walk from Sendai Subway Nagamachi-Minami Station (長道南駅)
Operating hours: Open all day
Admission rates: None
④ Nature-blessed suburbs
Akiu Onsen
Located less than an hour away from Sendai by train or bus is a historic hot spring that is said to have been loved by Date Masamune himself in the distant past. Akiu Onsen (秋保温泉) is located within a beautiful valley by the Natori River, and is known among hot spring enthusiasts as one of the best lesser-known hot spring resorts in the Tohoku Region.The natural hot spring water at Akiu Onsen contains salts and minerals similar to those found in seawater, and is said to be able to keep the body warm for hours. In fact, the hot spring water here contains minerals that are said to have unique healing properties, bringing relief to those suffering with rheumatism, hypertension, and arteriosclerosis.
Visitors will be spoiled for choice at the many hot spring hotels that await at Akiu Onsen. Resorts such as Iwanumaya (岩沼屋) and Rantei (蘭亭) boast of exceptional outdoor hot spring baths that use Akiu Onsen’s natural hot spring water. Plus, with Akiu Onsen located relatively near Sendai, visitors can choose to spend a night here and enjoy soaking in any of the many hot spring baths available here.
Akiu Onsen isn’t just about the hot springs, either. The hot spring resort is surrounded by pristine natural surroundings that visitors should not miss out; for example, visitors can take a 20-minute bus ride from the Akiu Sato Center to see the majestic Akiu Otaki Falls (秋保大滝).
The waterfall is a sight to behold, with its gushing waters falling from a height of 55m, and witnessing the sheer magnitude of the waterfall and roaring water is an experience that’s hard to put into words. Furthermore, Akiu Otaki Falls bear the privilege of being part of Japan’s “Top 100 Waterfalls” as well as the designation of National Site of Scenic Beauty, and visitors are highly encouraged to visit it during different seasons so that they can fully appreciate its seasonal beauty.
Another gift from Mother Nature at Akiu Onsen can be found just 5 minutes away by foot from Akiu Sato Center: the splendorous Rairaikyo Gorge (磊々峡), a 1km hiking trail that features the serene clear water of the Natori River 20m below, and oddly shaped rocks found around the area.
While taking in the tranquil surroundings and gazing at the intriguing rock formations, keep a lookout for a heart-shaped indentation found at the bottom of Nozokibashi Bridge (覗橋). Coined as “Nozokibashi Heart” (覗橋ハート), local lore has it that whoever successfully throws a peddle into the indentation will have their romance fulfilled!
Akiu Onsen (秋保温泉)
Address (Akiu-Sato Center): 40-7 Teradahara, Yumoto, Akiu, Taihaku, Sendai, Miyagi
Access: 50-minute bus ride bound for Akiu Onsen from JR Sendai Station’s West Exit Bus Terminal No. 8, or 15-minute Sendai City bus ride from JR Ayashi Station (JR愛子駅)
Sakunami Onsen
There’s another hot spring gem located also less than an hour away from Sendai by train or bus, tucked away in the city’s outskirts. Sakunami Onsen (作並温泉) is another hot spring resort with convenient access from the main city, and its natural hot spring water is a huge draw particularly for female visitors.
Compared to other hot spring resorts in the Tohoku Region, Sakunami is one of the lesser-known ones located in the rural western side of Sendai, approaching the border of Yamagata Prefecture. The transparent natural hot spring water in this resort is said to promote soft and supple skin, and thus is particularly popular among female visitors. Couple that with hot spring inns with amazing open-air hot spring baths that offer a picturesque view of the natural surroundings, and visitors are in for a memorable stay at one of the Tohoku Region’s best kept secrets.
What separates Sakunami Onsen from other hot spring resorts in the Tohoku Region is the eclectic attractions found here, which include amazing natural scenery and impressive architectures. For example, visitors who love nature are in for a big surprise, as it is home to the majestic and elusive Homei Shijuhachi Falls (鳳鳴四十八滝 Hōmei Shijūhachi-taki).
Here, visitors will be enthralled by the water rushing and falling through multiple waterfalls of varying sizes, which is a sight to behold. In fact, the name is a combination of two words: “shijūhachi” means forty-eight, as there are 48 waterfalls altogether, “hōmei” means phoenix cry, as the sound of rushing is said to resemble the call of the mythical phoenix. The waterfall is also known for its sheer seasonal beauty, from verdant greenery during the green season, to fiery red foliage in autumn, and plain white snow in winter.
Sakunami Onsen (作並温泉)
Address Sakunami Onsen, Aoba-ku, Sendai-shi, Miyagi
Access: 50-minute bus ride bound for Akiu Onsen from JR Sendai Station’s West Exit Bus Terminal No. 8, or 15-minute Sendai City bus ride from JR Ayashi Station (JR愛子駅)
⑤ Food, glorious food
Sendai is a gastronomical haven that has some of the most diverse delicacies in the region, and it has a lot more exquisite dishes that visitors can find in the city, so why not try them too. Hungry to know more about them? Let’s find out.
Hiyashi-chuka soba
If you are in Sendai for the summer, try some hiyashi-chuka soba (冷やし中華そば hiyashi-chūka soba) goodness. It is a cold noodle dish best enjoyed during the hot summer season, and many variants are found throughout Japan. Sendai has its own spin on the popular summer dish too, and it is a delicious treat that is perfect for the sweltering heat. Topped with vegetables, ham, and egg, hiyashi-chuka soba in Sendai is known to be pleasing to the eyes and the palate. The dish is originally inspired by Chinese cuisine, and there are many Chinese restaurants in Sendai that serve this dish.
Seri-nabe
On the flip side, when it comes to the cold winter, nothing warms up the body better than a warm hotpot (鍋 nabe). There’s an interesting kind of hotpot found in Sendai called seri-nabe (セリ鍋) where, unlike other usual hotpots, this one features a copious amount of seri (せり Japanese parsley).
Japanese parsley is known for its distinctive long white roots, and in seri-nabe, the entire parsley is used in the hotpot, from the leaves to even the roots, and it’s accompanied by other ingredients such as duck, chicken, and offal, in a soya sauce-based broth. The dish originally came from Natori (名取市), a city that produces the highest volume of Japanese parsley in Japan, but it has gained popularity in Sendai over the years. Plus, Japanese parsley is in season only during the winter when it’s soft and flavourful, so do try this hearty dish out during the cold season.
Shiroishi U-men
In Sendai, there is a type of noodle dish that looks like sōmen (そうめん) but is altogether different. Shiroishi u-men (白石温麺) is a dish that uses noodles made from wheat flour that are carefully stretched by hand and thinly sliced, resulting in a very smooth and delicate texture. Most importantly, the dish is known for being free of oil, preservatives, and additivities, and thus is good for health.
Interestingly, the dish has a history that stretches back more than 400 years ago, when a clansman from the Date feudal clan based in Shiroishi Castle (白石城) learned to make this dish from a travelling monk. The dish helped to cure the clansman’s father who was suffering from an ailment, and the clansman was very touched by the monk’s kindness. It is said that the dish was named after the castle, and “u-men” (温麺 warm noodles) to honour the “warm, compassionate heart” of the monk’s action.
Hokki-meshi and Fukahire-don
The next two dishes are for the rice bowl lovers, and these are topped with not-so-usual seafood ingredients. If you’re a big fan of clams, then try having some hokki-meshi (ほっき飯) which is rice topped with a generous serving of hokki (ほっき surf clams). Dubbed the “king of winter clams” for its sheer size and deliciousness, hokki is a local dish in Miyagi Prefecture given its close proximity to the Sanriku Coast, and is a delicacy that is in season from December to May. Hokki-meshi is a specialty of the towns of Watari (亘理町) and Yamamoto (山元町), but you can also enjoy in Sendai. A bowl of warm rice simmered in soya sauce and topped with surf claims is a simple dish with a profound taste of the sea that you can’t afford to miss.
Fukahire-don (フカヒレ丼) is another exquisite kind of rice bowl topped with dried shark fin, which is a prized delicacy. Sharks are a delicacy in the city of Kesennuma (気仙沼市) that is steeped in tradition, and in this dish it uses a dried version of shark meat, which has a more profound taste.
Other delicacies
There are many other delicacies in Sendai and neighbouring areas, some of which are for the more adventurous eaters. The area is close to the Sanriku Coast, so there are a handful of not-so-common seafood that are part of the local food scene. For example, when it comes to Miyagi Prefecture, oysters (牡蠣 kaki) are a huge deal. Although it can be enjoyed in many ways, be it deep fried, grilled, or steamed, the best way is to simply have it raw because of its incredible freshness.
Or how about hoya (ホヤ sea pineapples)? Don’t let its bizarre appearance turn you off; the flesh is subtly sweet and flavourful, and goes amazingly well with sake and beer. They can be found in many izakaya (居酒屋 Japanese bars) in the region, including those in Sendai. Lastly, do you know that there’s sashimi made from shark heart called Mōka no Hoshi (もうかの星)? Like fukahire-don, it’s a delicacy that originated from Kesennuma and it makes for a delicious accompaniment with sake and beer too.
Closing
Personally, I feel that Sendai is one of those cities that I find myself coming back to time and time again. It’s the type of place that has a bit of everything for everyone, and on top of that, there’s always something novel to find here, even for seasoned travellers. Plus, as the main gateway city to the Tohoku Region, it’s always tempting to make a detour to this city, rich in gastronomical delights and seasonal beauty.
JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area)
The JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area for 5 consecutive days. It’s only ¥30,000, making it a considerable option for rail travellers. You can also make seat reservations for bullet trains, some limited express trains and Joyful Trains online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation. It can also be used for automatic ticket gates, and foreign passport holders living in Japan are also eligible to use this pass.
Header image credit: Sendai Tourism, Convention and International Association
