When planning your first trip to Japan, specifically around Tokyo, you may have come across Kamakura (鎌倉), a small coastal city about a 1-hour train ride from Tokyo. Did you know? Back in the 12th century, Kamakura was chosen to be Japan’s new political centre by Yoritomo Minamoto (源頼朝), who established the first military government (幕府 bakufu) in Japan. It was the first time that Japan’s de facto capital was shifted from Western Japan (Nara, Kyoto) to Eastern Japan.
Located in present-day Kanagawa Prefecture (神奈川県 Kanagawa-ken), Kamakura served as the country’s political capital from 1185 to 1333, and continued to be the political centre of Eastern Japan for many years after. Have you heard of the phrase “Iza Kamakura (いざ鎌倉)”? It literally means “Time to go to Kamakura”, but figuratively means “In the event of an emergency”, and came from the days when samurai would rush to Kamakura (the capital) when something major happened.
In January 2022, NHK started airing its new taiga drama (大河ドラマ historical drama), called “The 13 Lords of the Shogun” (鎌倉殿の13人 Kamakura-dono no Jūsan-nin). Set in Kamakura and starring Shun Oguri (小栗旬) as Yoshitoki Hojo, the drama tells the story of 13 lords vying for power in Kamakura following Yoritomo Minamoto’s death.
Places featured in taiga dramas usually enjoy a surge in popularity when the drama airs (like Ueda when the drama “Sanada Maru” aired in 2016). With temples and shrines steeped in rich history, well-preserved ancient structures, beautiful beaches, and stunning natural scenery, Kamakura is a go-to destination throughout the year.
Let’s check out some of the must-visit spots around Kamakura, the Kyoto of Eastern Japan!
① Behold, the Great Buddha of Kamakura
One of the first things that comes to mind when thinking of Kamakura is the Great Buddha of Kamakura (鎌倉大仏 Kamakura Daibutsu). Towering at a height of 11.4m (13.4m including the base), this massive bronze statue was cast in 1252, and is located on the temple grounds of Kotoku-in (高徳院 Kо̄tuku-in), a Buddhist temple of the Jodo sect.
Cast using sо̄fū (宋風) techniques unique to Kamakura, the Great Buddha of Kamakura is designated as a National Treasure, representing Buddhist sculptures from the Kamakura Period (1185–1333).
When it was first built, the Great Buddha of Kamakura was originally coated in gold leaf and housed indoors. However, after numerous natural disasters destroyed the temple buildings, the Great Buddha of Kamakura has been sitting in the open air since the late 15th century. The entire statue must have once shined a brilliant gold, but after surviving the outdoor weather for centuries, only a few bits of the gold leaf remain. Can you spot them?
In the past, visitors could enter the statue and see the interior of the Great Buddha of Kamakura, but due to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, entry has temporarily been closed.
Kotoku-in (高徳院)
Address: 4-2-28, Hase, Kamakura, Kanagawa 248-0016
Access: 25-minute walk from JR Kamakura Station (鎌倉駅). Alternatively, take a 10-minute bus ride from the East Exit of JR Kamakura Stationand get off at the Daibutsu-mae bus stop.
② Double your wealth at Zeniarai Benten
From the Great Buddha, take a pleasant 30-minute walk along the Daibutsu Hiking Course (大仏ハイキングコース), and you will reach Zeniarai Benzaiten Ugafuku Shrine (銭洗弁財天宇賀福神社). Known commonly as Zeniarai Benten (銭洗弁天), this shrine is believed to increase the wealth of visitors who wash their money there.
Did you know? Zeniarai Benten has a very interesting tale regarding its construction. Near the end of the Heian Period (794–1185), people were suffering from famine. It is said that Yoritomo Minamoto had a dream, in which the god Ugafuku appeared in the form of an old man and advised him to build the shrine to bring peace to the country. The old man told Yoritomo Minamoto that there was a rock beyond which beautiful spring water could be found. Guess what? An interesting feature of Zeniarai Benten is that its entrance is a tunnel carved through the rock, and the spring water is used to wash money.
The dream is said to have occurred in the Year of the Snake, during the Month of the Snake, and on the Day of the Snake, hence later on, the shrine was dedicated to the Buddhist goddess Benten, who is associated with snakes.
The other part of the shrine’s name, Zeniarai, literally means “coin washing”, and it is believed that if you wash your money at the shrine, the washed money will double! Not only that, but it is also believed that washing money will bring prosperity to your families and businesses, and your descendants will enjoy peace for many years.
For visitors interested in washing their money, they can head over to the area at the Okumiya lined with baskets and scoops. Does it really work? Try it yourself to find out!
Zeniarai Benzaiten Ugafuku Shrine (銭洗弁財天宇賀服神社)
Address: 2-25-16 Sasuke, Kamakura, Kanagawa 248-0017
Access: 25-minute walk from JR Kamakura Station (鎌倉駅)
③ Beautiful hydrangeas at Meigetsuin
In the northern part of Kamakura, about a 30-minute walk from Zeniarai Benten, you will find the lovely Meigetsuin (明月院). Also known as the Hydrangea Temple (紫陽花寺 Ajisai-dera), Meigetsuin is famed for the thousands of beautiful hydrangeas (紫陽花 ajisai) that fill the temple precinct.
Many temples in Kamakura have hydrangeas in their gardens, but Meigetsuin is undoubtedly the most beautiful and abundant of all. Most of the hydrangeas at Meigetsuin are a beautiful bright blue, which is sometimes called Meigetsu Blue (明月院ブルー). However, you can also find hydrangeas of other colours around the temple grounds.
Did you know? The colour of hydrangeas can change depending on the pH of the soil. Hydrangeas planted in acidic soil yield blue flowers, while hydrangeas planted in alkaline soil yield pink flowers.
The hydrangeas at Meigetsuin usually bloom in June, during the rainy season. Instead of feeling down because of the wet weather, be happy and look forward to seeing the gorgeous hydrangeas at Meigetsuin!
Meigetsuin (明月院)
Address: 189 Yamanouchi, Kamakura, Kanagawa 247-0062
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Kita-Kamakura Station (北鎌倉駅)
④ Enjoy nature at Kenchoji
From Meigetsuin, a short 15-minute walk will bring you to Kenchoji (建長寺 Kenchō-ji), the oldest Zen temple in Kamakura and one of the five most important Zen temples in the area. Kenchoji was established in 1253, and was originally the only Zen temple in Japan for receiving Zen training.
The temple bell (梵鐘 bonshō), a statue of the temple’s founder, and calligraphy work (墨蹟 bokuseki) have been designated as National Treasures, and the massive temple complex boasts other artifacts and structures that are Important Cultural Properties.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit Kenchoji, when pink cherry blossom trees and fiery orange maple leaves create vibrant sceneries. If there’s one thing you can’t miss at Kenchoji, it’s its stunning Zen garden. The beautiful garden was designed by the renowned Zen master Muso Soseki, and features an exquisite use of borrowed scenery (借景 shakkei).
Kenchoji’s expansive temple grounds extend deep into the hills behind, and house many temple buildings and sub-temples. About a 20-minute walk into the deepest part of the temple grounds, you can find the start of the Tenen Hiking Course (天園ハイキングコース), a 4km trail that connects Kenchoji with Zuisenji (瑞泉寺), another temple to the east.
If you have time and enjoy hiking to see a change of scenery, I recommend checking out the Tenen Hiking Course, which is also known as the Kamakura Alps (鎌倉アルプス). This hiking course is easily accessible, easy to walk, and offers fantastic vistas of the Sagami Bay (相模湾 Sagami-wan) and Kamakura below.
As there are no tall buildings in Kamakura, you can get unobstructed views of the beautiful blue sea, and on clear days, you can even see Mount Fuji in the distance. The entire trail takes about 1–1.5 hours to hike, passes by many hills, and along the way, you might even see yagura (tomb caves).
Kenchoji (建長寺)
Address: 8 Yamanouchi, Kamakura, Kanagawa 247-8525
Access: 15-minute walk from JR Kita-Kamakura Station (北鎌倉駅). Alternatively, visitors can take a 5-minute bus ride from JR Kita-Kamakura Station and get off at the Kenchoji Bus Stop.
⑤ Kamakura’s most important shrine: Tsuruoka Hachimangu
Being an ancient capital, Kamakura is filled with dozens of historic temples and shrines, many of them built centuries ago. In Kamakura, the oldest and most important shrine is Tsuruoka Hachimangu (鶴岡八幡宮 Tsuruoka Hachiman-gū), which is easily recognised by its bright red exterior.
The shrine was shifted to its current location in 1180 by Minamoto Yoritomo, and is dedicated to Hachiman, who is the Minamoto Clan’s patron god, as well as the patron god of samurai warriors.
Being the most important shrine in Kamakura, Tsuruoka Hachimangu’s approach is long and wide, starting from the waterfront and going through the city centre. Along the approach, many large vermillion torii (鳥居) gates can be found. At the end of the approach, a wide stairway leads to the Main Hall (本堂 hondо̄).
The shrine grounds also house a small museum, a treasure hall, a cemetery, two ponds that represent the Minamoto Clan and their rivals the Taira Clan, and a garden famous for its peonies (ぼたん botan). The 1,000 peonies of 100 varieties bloom twice a year, in winter (January–February) and in spring (April–May).
Tsuruoka Hachimangu (鶴岡八幡宮)
Address: 2-1-31, Yukinoshita, Kamakura, Kanagawa 248-8588
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Kamakura Station (鎌倉駅)
⑥ Shop and snack at Komachi Shopping Street
After a day of walking around Kamakura, take a break and enjoy some snacks and shopping at Komachi Shopping Street (小町通り Komachi-dо̄ri). The small street is dotted with shops selling snacks, desserts, and souvenirs, and is the perfect way to end off a trip to Kamakura. Komachi Shopping Street connects the East Exit of JR Kamakura Station with Tsuruoka Hachimangu.
While at Kamakura, don’t miss out on its delectable shirasudon (しらす丼)—rice topped with baby sardines (しらす shirasu). The waters of Sagami Bay, off the coast of Kamakura and Enoshima, are home to hundreds of thousands of shirasu, which can be eaten in a variety of ways—raw, boiled, fried, etc. Boiled shirasu have fluffy texture and slightly salty flavour, while raw shirasu has a slightly chewy texture and deeper flavour.
If you’d like to try out the different styles, some places serve shirasudon where the topping is a mix of boiled and raw shirasu! To really bring out the flavour, it is recommended to eat shirasu with some ginger, rather than wasabi. Being near the bay, you can enjoy fresh shirasu at Kamakura all year round, except for the fishing prohibition season from January–mid-March, when frozen shirasu is used instead. Shirasudon costs around ¥1,000–¥1,500.
Komachi Shopping Street (小町通り)
Address: 2-8 Komachi, Kamakura, Kanagawa 248-0006
Access: Right by the East Exit of JR Kamakura Station (鎌倉駅)
Bonus: Beautiful beaches and views of Mount Fuji
As a former capital, Kamakura is filled with a plethora of buildings and sites that hold great historical, cultural, and spiritual significance. However, Kamakura is also a seaside town, and has wonderful views of the sea. When the weather conditions are good, you can even see Mount Fuji in the distance!
Kamakura is part of the Miura Peninsula (三浦半島 Miura Hantо̄), on the side that faces the Sagami Bay. Some places along the peninsula offer particularly scenic views of the sea and/or Mount Fuji, so here are three of my recommendations:
⑦ Yuigahama Beach
Surfers at Yuigahama Beach. | © photoAC
Just a 20-minute walk from Kamakura Station is Yuigahama Beach (由比ヶ浜), a quick beach getaway for city dwellers from Tokyo and Yokohama looking to enjoy the sea. Yuigahama Beach is a popular spot for surfing and swimming, and offers good facilities for visitors, such as shower rooms, beach huts, rental services, and more.
Kamakura’s beach season only lasts from July to August, but other than for water activities, Yuigahama Beach offers stunning seaside scenery throughout the year. During the daytime, visitors can enjoy the sparkling sapphire waters, and during the evening, they can gaze at the enchanting pink and orange sunsets!
Yuigahama Beach (由比ヶ浜)
Address: 2 Hase, Kamakura, Kanagawa 248-0016
Access: 20-minute walk from JR Kamakura Station (鎌倉駅)
⑧ Enoshima
Can’t get enough of beaches? Head over to Enoshima (江ノ島), a small island off the coast near Kamakura. A popular weekend getaway, the sandy island’s location in the Sagami Bay gives magnificent views of Mount Fuji in the distance.
Despite the small size of the island, there are many things to check out at Enoshima, so I recommend it as a half-day or full-day trip if you’re staying overnight at Kamakura. From Kamakura, you can take a 23-minute ride on the Enoshima Electric Railway to Enoshima Station (江ノ島駅), and walk for about 10-15 minutes to reach the island.
Enoshima (江ノ島)
Access: 15-minute walk from Enoshima Electric Railway Enoshima Station (江ノ島駅), which is a 23-minute ride from Kamakura Station on the Enoshima Electric Railway.
⑨ Tateishi Park
Further down south along the Miura Peninsula is Tateishi Park (立石公園 Tateishi Kо̄en), which offers amazing and dramatic views of the sea and Mount Fuji in the distance.
What’s unique about the scenery here is the many rocks along the coast, some of which are topped with trees. The dynamic view of the strong waves crashing against the rocks, with Mount Fuji in the distance, is definitely a stunning sight to behold. The coast faces the west, and is a fantastic place to catch deep red and orange sunsets, with a silhouette of Mount Fuji.
Tateishi Park (立石公園)
Address: 3-5 Akiya, Yokosuka, Kanagawa 240-0105
Access: 25-minute bus ride from JR Zushi Station (逗子駅), which is a 4-minute train ride from JR Kamakura Station on the JR Yokosuka Line.
Stay overnight at Hotel Metropolitan Kamakura
The places mentioned in this article are just a small fraction of what Kamakura and the Miura Peninsula have to offer. If you have the time, I highly recommend staying overnight and spending another day or two to explore more of the historic sites and beautiful scenery.
Wondering where to stay? Check out Hotel Metropolitan Kamakura (ホテルメトロポリタン鎌倉), located just a 2-minute walk from JR Kamakura Station.
Newly opened in April 2020, Hotel Metropolitan Kamakura boasts a more modest exterior than other hotels in the Hotel Metropolitan chain, and this is to adhere to the building regulations of Kamakura, which stipulate height and colour restrictions to maintain the traditional atmosphere of the city.
On the inside, the hotel features a beautiful garden and an elegant lobby that mixes tradition with modernity. All rooms are non-smoking, and feature warm wooden accents.
Hotel Metropolitan Kamakura (ホテルメトロポリタン鎌倉)
Address: 1-8-1, Komachi, Kamakura, Kanagawa 248-0006
Access: 2-minute walk from the East Exit of JR Kamakura Station (鎌倉駅)
Getting there
Being a small town, most of Kamakura’s attractions are located near or around JR Kamakura Station (鎌倉駅) and JR Kita-Kamakura Station (北鎌倉駅), making it convenient to visit multiple sites on foot or by renting a bicycle. There are also well-maintained hiking trails that offer beautiful views of the surroundings.
JR Kamakura Station is a 55-minute direct train ride from JR Tо̄kyо̄ Station (東京駅) on the JR Yokosuka Line (横須賀線 Yokosuka-sen). If coming from JR Shinjuku Station (新宿駅), it takes about 1 hour on the JR Shо̄nan-Shinjuku Line. Do note that not all trains from Shinjuku go directly to Kamakura; a transfer might be required at JR О̄funa Station (大船駅).
Enjoy a ride of comfort on a Green Car seat
The JR Yokosuka Line and JR Shо̄nan-Shinjuku Line are commuter lines, so their regular seats are long rows that face each other. For a more comfortable ride, why not try a Green Car seat? Like shinkansen and Limited Express train seats, Green Car seats can recline, as well as swivel to face each other. They also have retractable tables, which are handy for eating ekiben (駅弁 lunch boxes for eating on the train), the perfect way to start off any train trip.
Since the trip between Tokyo and Kamakura takes about 1-hour, having a Green Car seat would provide a more comfortable ride, especially during peak hours in the morning and evening. There are even attendants on board who sell drinks like coffee, juice, and alcohol, as well as snacks like chips and biscuits.
While Green Car seats are not covered by JR East Rail Passes, the good news is that you can purchase the Green Car ticket right on the station platform, and even pay with a tap of your Suica card. Do note that while related area IC cards like PASMO, Kitaca, and TOICA can also be used, other IC cards from non-related areas (eg ICOCA, SUGOCA) cannot be used for these machines.
If you’re a fan of double decker trains, guess what? The Green Car carriages feature two levels! While the rest of the train is only one storey, the Green Car carriages are two storeys, and it’s an amazing feeling sitting on the second level and looking at the wonderful scenery that the train passes by. The next time you take a trip on the Yokosuka Line or Shonan-Shinjuku Line to Kamakura, why not ride in comfort and try out a Green Car seat?
JR TOKYO Wide Pass
If you’re staying in Tokyo and looking to go on day trips to Kamakura and other areas surrounding Tokyo, check out the JR TOKYO Wide Pass, an affordable pass offering unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) and certain non-JR lines in the valid area for 3 consecutive days. At ¥15,000, it is a good option for travellers going around the Kanto area, and even covers non-JR lines like the Izukyuko Line to the Izu Peninsula and the Fujikyuko Line to Kawaguchiko.
The JR-EAST Train Reservation. | © JR East
Pass holders can also make seat reservations online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation. The JR TOKYO Wide Pass can be used for automatic ticket gates, and foreign passport holders living in Japan are also eligible to use this pass.
Header image credit: photoAC
