To be entirely truthful, Hakone (箱根) had never been in my personal “Top Places to Visit in Japan” list. In my mind, Hakone had the reputation of being the overly-visited hotspot for family or elderly tourists. I’m usually more game for off-the-beaten-track adventures, such as a trek up to the mountain temple Yamadera in Yamagata or white-water rafting down the Sorachi River in Hokkaido.
I only paid a visit to the beautiful mountainous region because I was travelling with my family, and they were looking for a more “conventional” Japan trip. And every “conventional” Japan trip my friends took seemed to include visits to Hakone. So… off to Hakone we went.
We went in December, which was off-season, and I was pleasantly surprised by the experience! There was a healing magic in being surrounded by the remnants of autumn leaves while basking in the mountain’s cool air, with little to no crowds around—just the escape we needed from the bustle of urban life.
Yoshiike Ryokan
We stayed in the tranquil premises of Yoshiike Ryokan (吉池旅館), a mere 6-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station. The ryokan offers traditional tatami-matted rooms with top-notch hot springs within the vicinity—the perfect getaway to soothe those aching laptop-hunched muscles.
But the crown jewel of this ryokan would be its expansive garden, all landscaped in perfect traditional style. With the autumn leaves still out in all their glory, we truly took our time exploring the surprises of each elusive corner, winding pathway, koi pond, and manicured flora.
The garden brought me back to my favourite Studio Ghibli movies. For that brief moment in time, I was all at once Chihiro from Spirited Away; Satsuki from My Neighbour Totoro; Umi from From Up on Poppy Hill—my first experience of Hakone’s special magic.
Yoshiike Ryokan (吉池旅館)
Address: 597 Yumoto, Hakone, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa 250-0311
Access: 6-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station (箱根湯本駅)
The Hakone Open-Air Museum
The Hakone Open-Air Museum (彫刻の森美術館)) was a wonder to behold. It topped my list of attractions to visit in Hakone, and it certainly did not disappoint.
Located in one of Hakone’s many vast valleys, the museum boasts a remarkable 120 permanent-display outdoor sculptures dotted around the green, all juxtaposed to the scenic backdrop of the beautiful Hakone Mountains. Taking a stroll around the museum and admiring the various artworks was deeply soothing to the soul. Art indeed does magic, especially when done in the crisp air of Hakone’s winter.
Personal favourites include the Picasso Museum, which grants visitors—through the over 300 works it—an intimate look into the life of famed artist Pablo Picasso, and Toshiko MacAdam’s colourful masterpiece, “Knitted Wonder Space 2”, which left both children and adults in awe.
The Hakone Open-Air Museum (彫刻の森美術館)
Address: 1121 Ninotaira, Hakone, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa 250-0407
Access: From Hakone-Yumoto Station, take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Chokoku-no-Mori Station (彫刻の森駅), from which it is a 2-minute walk to the museum.
The Hakone Ropeway and Owakudani
The explosive Owakudani (大涌谷), leftover from Mount Hakone’s eruption some 3,000 years ago, was a change of pace from the previous two attractions. The wind at the top was vicious, the “aroma” of sulphur overwhelming, and the steam vents rumbled powerfully below as though Mother Nature’s revenge was upon us. That’s not to say it was a horrible experience—on the contrary, the aggression of the Earth proved riveting. Time flew by as I stood there watching the vapours bellow, all whilst being watched by the greatest mountain in the Japanese naturescape.
Yes, at Owakudani, Fuji-San himself stands mightily in the background. No matter how many times I’ve seen Mount Fuji, the snow-capped behemoth never fails to take my breath away. Nature truly has the powerful magic—no matter in its violence or might or beauty—to remind one of the infinitesimal existence of human life.
The main mode of transport to reach Owakudani is via The Hakone Ropeway, which provides scenic views with every turn of the head.
Owakudani (大涌谷)
Address: 1251-1 Sengokuhara, Hakone, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa 250-0631
Access: From Hakone-Yumoto Station, take the bus heading towards Sounzan Station (早雲山駅), and take the ropeway up to Owakudani Station (大涌谷駅). Alternatively, you can also take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Gora Station (強羅駅) and change to a cable car that brings you to Sounzan Station before taking the ropeway up to Owakudani Station. For those visiting Lake Ashi, you can also take the Ropeway from the other end at Togendai Station (桃源台駅).
I hope that this article has inspired you to discover for yourself the magic which awaits in Hakone. I promise that its sights and experiences will be an unregrettable solace from urban life back home!
Header image credit: Celia Lim
