Located in the northernmost part of the Tohoku Region (東北地方) is Aomori (青森県), a prefecture that is known for its natural beauty all year round, and for having a wide variety of delectable delicacies. Aomori also has a unique climate, with its short summers and long winters, and is home to larger-than-life festivals and awe-inspiring architectures.
The prefecture’s highly connected railway network also enables visitors to travel there from other regions of Japan by rail with ease. With the presence of JR Shin-Aomori Station (JR新青森駅), visitors from Tokyo can travel directly to the prefecture simply by hopping on the Shinkansen and making their way to Aomori. Exploring the prefecture’s natural beauty and delicious foods has never been easier thanks to the prefecture’s railway connectivity.
For this article, we will be exploring the beauty of Aomori in winter together with Anna, who went on a memorable railway trip there just a few weeks ago. She had the chance to experience the best that the prefecture had to offer, from spectacular scenery to delectable gourmet cuisine, so let’s find out in further detail about her latest railway adventure.
Are you ready? Let’s go forth and explore Astounding Aomori!
Day 1
Anna began her railway trip to Aomori by making her way from Tokyo to JR Hachinohe Station (JR八戸駅) by Shinkansen. Located in the eastern part of the prefecture, the station is the starting point for the first item in her itinerary: a ride on a luxurious restaurant train.
① A train ride full of emotions
Anna was on her way to JR Hachinohe Station to hop on the TOHOKU EMOTION, one of JR East’s Joyful Trains that offer unique themes and experiences of railway travel around eastern Japan. The TOHOKU EMOTION is the flagship of dining Joyful Trains, and passengers riding the train will enjoy a special dining experience with five-star service by the staff while riding it.
Anna had never ridden the train before, and she was also fascinated by the concept of fine dining onboard a train. When she laid her eyes on it for the first time, she was pleasantly surprised by its unique design: from its lush interiors to its elegant train exterior artwork, she felt like she was stepping into a classy restaurant.
She rode the train not once but twice, from JR Hachinohe Station to JR Kuji Station (JR久慈駅) in Iwate Prefecture (岩手県), and then back to Hachinohe. She could not contain her excitement that she was going to ride this train twice in just one day!
The train made its debut in 2013, and it was to promote the Hachinohe Line (八戸線) which was severely damaged by the Great Eastern Japan Earthquake and Tsunami in 2011. It is made up of three cars altogether: Car 1 is the private compartment car, Car 2 is the live kitchen car where passengers can view their meals being prepared in person, and Car 3 is the open-dining car resembling a restaurant.
One of the highlights of the TOHOKU EMOTION is the breathtaking scenery that passengers will get to enjoy onboard. Anna got to see the island of Kabushima (蕪島) as the train made its way along the Tanesashi Coast (種差海岸), and she also got to enjoy a panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean.
The scenery was among the most amazing that she had ever laid eyes on, and what’s more, she was also delighted to see the locals waving at her as the train passed by the countryside, a glimpse of the local hospitality that emotionally touched her.
Anna not only admired the wondrous views outside the train, but she also had to appreciate the interior designs inside the train. She noticed how the train’s interiors included the use of sashiko ori (刺し子折り), the use of Nambu ironware (南部鉄器) on the live kitchen’s counter, and kogin sashi (こぎん刺し) embroidery found on the floor of Car 3. These were some of the nice aesthetic touches that Anna had to admire while riding the train.
And of course, the other highlight of riding the TOHOKU EMOTION is the meals. The chef in charge of creating the menu changes twice a year, and the menus change four times a year, so passengers get to enjoy different menus at different times of the year.
During her time on the train, Anna got to enjoy a luxurious lunch course created by Chef Tashiro Kazuhisa of La Blanche based in Tokyo. This is what she had for lunch:
- Appetisers: grilled sandwich, carrot potage, grilled salted mackerel with purple cabbage, and cream cheese with apple balsamic herb
- Grilled tilefish (甘鯛 amadai)
- Roast pork with wild rice and cabbage truffle
- Desserts: custard pudding, cherry blossom macaron, and apple jelly compote
Best of all, Anna paired her lunch with a free flow of Aomori Cidre, a locally brewed apple cider from Aomori Prefecture, and red wine from Takahata (高畠) in Yamagata Prefecture (山形県). Yum! (Note: the lunch menu above is for March–May 2022. Passengers are encouraged to check the official website for the menu for the upcoming seasons.)
For her return journey, she enjoyed a dessert buffet created by Chef Kumagai Takashi of Hotel Metropolitan Morioka. Anna got to enjoy chocolate and strawberry mousse, mont blanc, strawberry sorbet, and muscat jelly. For those who would like something savoury, ham and scallops are also available. And of course, the desserts also come with a free flow of drinks such as coffee, tea, herbal teas, and more. Her tip on how to fully appreciate your meals onboard the train? Go watch them being prepared in the live kitchen in Car 2! It’s always a treat to see your dishes being made before your eyes, don’t you think?
When Anna finally reached JR Kuji Station, she spent some time exploring around the station before her next train ride back to Hachinohe. She was surprised again to see the locals greeting her and showing their hospitality by waving flags with enthusiasm.
When Anna finally reached Hachinohe after her return ride on the TOHOKU EMOTION, she had to bid farewell to one of the most “joyful” trains she had ever ridden. She believed that she would ride the train again soon, but until then, she was off to her hotel to wrap up for the day.
② A night at a marvellous resort hotel
After a full day of riding a dining train, Anna called it a night and made her way to her accommodation. But it was not just any ordinary hotel; it was a luxurious resort hotel, one that is located near one of Aomori’s most renowned natural attractions.
Anna spent the night staying at the Oirase Keiryu Hotel by Hoshino Resorts. It is the only resort hotel built along the Oirase Keiryū (奥入瀬渓流), a picturesque 14km mountain stream in the Towada-Hachimantai National Park, and it is surrounded by the park’s all-year-round natural beauty, from the soothing sounds of the nearby stream to the gorgeous views of the foliage colours of the different seasons. The hotel also arranges special tours and activities exclusively for its guests, one of which Anna was going to join later that night.
Anna could not be more ecstatic at being able to spend a night here, as she got to enjoy the hotel’s amazing facilities. She admired the hotel’s exquisite wooden interiors and artwork, and the atmosphere of being surrounded by Aomori’s pristine nature. The highlight of her stay at the hotel had to be the outdoor hot spring bath (露天風呂); the bath was surrounded by ice walls, and the view from there during the day was spectacular!
Another thing that Anna was looking forward to was the Oirase Winter Tour at night, where she would get to visit the stream near the hotel. The theme of the tour was “Ice Blue”, and Anna got to witness the stream as well as the frozen waterfalls and ice falls lit up in shades of blue and purple, reflecting the colours of winter. (Note: The Oirase Winter Tour is only for guests staying at the Oirase Keiryu Hotel.)
Also, during mid-winter, the ambience around the stream turns quiet and serene, and the locals claim it feels as though time has stopped. Anna understood what they meant and was mesmerised during her visit there when she felt that time had miraculously stopped.
Anna paid a visit to the stream again the next morning to experience the difference in ambience between day and night. She simply fell in love with the soothing sounds of the stream and the sight of fluffy white snow there, and she knew that she would be coming here again in other seasons to appreciate its everchanging beauty.
She also had one tip for visitors planning to visit Oirase Keiryū in winter: keep a lookout for animal footsteps in the snow. If they are lucky, they can even see animals out in the wild! Of course, Oirase Keiryū is beautiful in other seasons as well, so visitors should consider visiting during other seasons as well.
Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel (星野リゾート 奥入瀬渓流ホテル)
Address: 231 Tochikubo, Okuse, Towada-shi, Aomori 034-0301
Access: 90-minute shuttle bus ride from JR Hachinohe Station (JR八戸駅)
(Shuttle bus service to the hotel is available from this station for hotel guests. Reservation is required, and must be arranged at least 3 days in advance.)
Day 2
It was the start of the second day, and Anna was raring to go for an exciting adventure all around Aomori. It was going to be a full day for her, as she was going to visit several exciting places in the prefecture. For the first item of the day, she would be going up the mountains for an intimate winter experience.
③ A ropeway ride up the Hakkoda Mountains
Anna’s first destination of the day would bring her to the Hakkoda Mountains (八甲田山系 Hakkōda-sankei), where she would experience immense snowfall that Aomori is renowned for during winter. To do so, she would be hopping on a ropeway that promised spectacular scenery for her and all those riding it.
To get up the mountains, Anna hopped on the Hakkoda Ropeway (八甲田ロープウェイ). The ropeway brought her up an ascent of 650m, and during her 10-minute ride on the cable car, she had a stunning panoramic scenery of the surrounding snow-capped mountains. The weather was also very clear, and she could even see the city of Aomori from afar!
The ropeway is one of the most scenic in the Tohoku Region, and though she was looking forward to exploring the mountains at the top, she could not help but be amazed at the views all around her during her journey up there.
Once Anna reached the summit station, she was off for the activity that she had been eagerly looking forward to since the start of her trip: snowshoe experience! The mountain’s high snowfall provided the perfect opportunity for her to experience walking on thick snow using snowshoes, and she followed the Forest Course to explore the area. Her tip for those interested in the experience? Gear up properly, as the temperature at the summit ranges between -15°C to -20°C!
Walking with snowshoes proved to be a fun experience for her, but she could not have anticipated what else was in store for her.
Anna could not believe her eyes when she saw rows of snow monsters (樹氷 juhyō) along the mountain slopes! Snow monsters require the right kind of weather conditions to form, and Anna was lucky to see them during her snowshoe experience. The larger-than-life formations were quite a sight to behold, and she wished that other visitors would get to see them the next time they came up here.
The one thing that Anna discovered while exploring the mountain slopes was how powdery the snow was. Powdery snow is ideal for winter activities such as skiing and snowboarding, which are very popular among visitors to the mountains. Anna personally loves snowboarding, and she hoped that she could try it here in the future.
When it comes to food, do you know what is Aomori’s most famous example? Apples, of course. The prefecture is the top producer of apples in Japan, but do you know that they can also be refrigerated naturally by burying them in the snow? Doing so makes the apples sweeter, and Anna was surprised to learn how good they were and wants all visitors to try them out when they have the chance.
After spending much time walking along the mountain slopes in snowshoes, Anna descended the mountain and was on the way to Aomori City. It was an amazing experience going up the mountain, and she would love to come back here again.
④ A trip to apple paradise
As mentioned before, apples are highly popular in Aomori, so much so that it is part of the prefecture’s identity. Visitors can enjoy them in many ways, and one of the must-visits here when it comes to apples is a place located not far from the city centre.
Just a 3-minute walk from JR Aomori Station (JR青森駅) is A-FACTORY, a one-stop shop for a wide range of apple products and souvenirs. Visitors can explore and check out the numerous products here that are made from the prefecture’s top-producing fruit: apple ciders, apple juices, apple jams, and many more. There are also non-apple products here as well, such as those made from seafood that Aomori is also known for.
Anna was surprised to see that not only could she get all kinds of apple products here, but many of them are from different parts of Aomori, such as Tsugaru (つがる市) and Hirosaki (弘前市).
Her tip at A-FACTORY? Check out Ocean’s Diner inside. The diner is popular among visitors for its unique Western menu, and she recommends the signature Apple Burger, which she had before and thought was delicious. For visitors with a hunger pang, don’t forget to check out the menu here.
A-FACTORY
Address: 1-4-2 Yanagikawa, Aomori-shi, Aomori 038-0012
Access: 3-minute walk from JR Aomori Station (JR青森駅)
⑤ Not your usual bowl of ramen
Anna finally reached the end of her trip to Aomori and was about to hop on the Shinkansen back to Tokyo. But before that, there was just one more thing that she had to do before going back, and it involved one particular local soul food.
Anna is a big fan of ramen, and there was one especially unique ramen that she had to check out. It can be found at SAPPORO KAN (札幌館), and it is the Aomori miso curry milk ramen (味噌カレー牛乳ラーメン). That’s right: this ramen features not only miso, but also curry and milk! It’s a favourite among the locals, and Anna enjoyed the whole bowl to her heart’s content.
After a hearty bowl of delicious ramen, she could finally make her way back to Tokyo by shinkansen and bid farewell to the beautiful prefecture of Aomori with satisfaction.
SAPPORO KAN (札幌館)
Address: Okabe-56-3, Ishie, Aomori 038-0003
Access: 5-minute taxi ride from JR Shin-Aomori Station (JR新青森駅)
Closing
Aomori is filled with wondrous sightseeing spots that showcase the prefecture’s beauty throughout the seasons. Not only that, but the Tohoku Region’s northernmost prefecture is also filled with delectable cuisines that attract visitors to the prefecture time and time again.
Anna had visited Aomori before, but she knew that the prefecture had plenty of surprises that she had not discovered yet when she embarked on a railway trip there. Winter proved to be an amazing season for her, as she got to experience its powdery white snow and delicious foods. And not only that, but she also got to ride on a restaurant train that offered amazing dishes onboard and splendid outdoor views, and experienced the warm hospitality of the locals during her train ride.
Although it was a very brief trip, Anna had so much fun travelling around Aomori by rail. She realised just how exciting it was to explore Aomori by hopping on the train and seeing different parts of the prefecture during winter. She knew that it would only be a matter of time before she set foot again there, when she would make even more discoveries!
JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area)
If you want to explore Aomori as Anna did, you can consider getting the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area), an affordable pass that offers unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) in the valid area for 5 consecutive days. At only ¥30,000, it costs less than a return trip between Tokyo and Aomori (~¥35,000). You can also make seat reservations for bullet trains, some limited express trains and Joyful Trains online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
Furthermore, if you’d like to make your purchase of a JR EAST PASS even more value-for-money, JAPAN RAIL CLUB is now running a special discount campaign for all omiyage box subscribers! Simply purchase a 3, 6, or 12-month membership plan and you’ll be entitled to 15% OFF all purchases of the JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area) and JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) made on our website.
Take note that the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) cannot be used to ride the TOHOKU EMOTION for free. The train is considered a travel package, which must be purchased separately. For more information on the TOHOKU EMOTION, you can check out the article here.
Header image credit: Japan Travel, illustAC
