Updated as of 21 June 2023
Originally published on 11 June 2021
In my last article, I discussed where I would go in Tohoku (東北) if I had the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area). For this article, I will continue with my dream railway adventure, but this time with the JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area). By “dream railway adventure”, my criteria remain more or less the same:
- Visit “obligatory” tourist attractions e.g. famous castles, parks
- Experience breathtaking natural sceneries
- Stay and enjoy at least one hot spring experience
- Take part in a physical activity i.e. hiking for the green season
- Travel from place to place by railway!
Like in my previous article, the last point is perhaps the most important, more so when this time it’s about exploring Shinetsu (信越), which is modern-day prefectures Nagano (長野) and Niigata (新潟). I have been to only a few places in both prefectures, which boast some of the most magnificent sceneries in Japan. The best way for me to enjoy these sceneries is from the comfort of the train view, as gazing at them is not the same if I were to take other modes of transport. Like the adage, it’s about the journey itself, not just the destination, and my adventure starts the moment I hop on the train and enjoy the views before reaching the destinations in my itinerary.
With the pass’s unlimited rides on JR East and selected lines in applicable areas within Nagano and Niigata, I can visit many places and save a lot of money at the same time. So let’s see where I will go for the green season if I have the pass.
Day 1: Shinjuku (新宿) → Matsumoto (松本)
Shinjuku Station (新宿駅) is the world’s busiest railway station, with numerous passengers served by JR East lines at the station each day. This is the starting point of my trip with the JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area), where my first train ride is on the E353 series on Azusa, a limited express train bound for Matsumoto (松本) in Nagano. An interesting thing to note: the service is named after the Azusa River (梓川), where the image of the river flowing through Kamikochi (上高地) inspires the train’s design.
① Matsumoto Castle (松本城)
Just a 15-minute walk from JR Matsumoto Station is the imposing Matsumoto Castle, a masterpiece that is the city’s main attraction. It is built atop a stone foundation and surrounded by a moat, and it was constructed in the 16th century. The castle is known for its tiled walls which are coated with black lacquer, and overall shape which is said to resemble a crow spreading its wings. For that, the castle is also known as “Crow Castle” (烏城 karasu-jо̄).
I have visited a few castles throughout Japan: Himeji Castle in Hyogo Prefecture, Kumamoto Castle in Kumamoto Prefecture, Matsuyama Castle in Ehime Prefecture, and Osaka Castle in Osaka Prefecture. Matsumoto Castle is one I’ve been meaning to visit for a long time. It’s one of five castles that are coveted National Treasures (国宝), recognised for their especially high artistic and historical value, especially when they were built during a tumultuous era when many battles took place. Castles primarily served as fortresses for military lords, but today they are symbolic remnants of a distant past. The only National Treasure-designated castle I’ve visited is Himeji Castle, and the next one to visit on my list is Matsumoto Castle.
Another reason I want to visit this castle is because of its aesthetics. I remember being mesmerised by Himeji Castle’s immaculately white exterior—it’s also known as “White Egret Castle” and “White Heron Castle”—and Matsumoto Castle looks like the polar opposite. It makes for an intriguingly contrasting sight, and even though the castle already looks amazing in pictures, I imagine it would be a wholly different experience to be able to see it in person.
And what do I do when I see a castle? Climb it, of course! The view from the top of any castle is something to look forward to, and I will never pass the chance to see a panoramic view of Matsumoto’s skyline if I have one. Better yet, if the weather is favourable, visitors can even see the Northern Alps in the distance. A memorable visit to a historical monument with a stunning view of the surrounding city… how is that for a start for my railway trip to Nagano and Niigata?
Matsumoto Castle (松本城)
Address: 4-1 Marunouchi, Matsumoto-shi, Nagano 390-0873
Access: 15-minute walk from JR Matsumoto Station (JR松本駅)
② Nakamachi Street (中町)
A 10-minute walk from JR Matsumoto Station is Nakamachi Street, a shopping district that used to be the heart of the city’s trading business. Matsumoto used to thrive as a trading hub during the Edo Period (1603–1867) when it was part of the Zenkōji Kaidō, a route that links cities Nagoya and Kyoto to Nagano’s Zenkoji Temple. Sake breweries and kimono merchants used to prosper on this street, but today they are replaced with folk handicraft shops, cafés, and restaurants.
Historical streets always fascinate me. They give me a glimpse of what the city used to be, and I also get to learn a thing or two about the local history. Nakamachi Street retains the look and feel of its past, especially with the careful preservation of its traditional storehouses (蔵 kura). I also want to see the street’s aesthetics, where the storehouses are characterised by their distinctive black-and-white, crisscrossed wall designs. Last but not least, the one place I want to check out is the main landmark of the street: Kurassic-kan (蔵シック館), a restored sake warehouse that is now used as a rental space for events, tea ceremonies and more.
③ Lake Suwa (諏訪湖)
After exploring Matsumoto, I will hop on the train on the JR Chuo Line (JR中央線 Chūō-sen) to make my way to JR Kami-Suwa Station (JR上諏訪駅), where a 10–15-minute walk from the station lies the understatedly picturesque Lake Suwa. This shallow lake is located near the centre of Nagano Prefecture, and the local towns around the lake have garnered a reputation recently as hot spring destinations in the region.
One town near Lake Suwa that I would like to visit is Kamisuwa (上諏訪), located on the eastern side of the lake. Kamisuwa is a hot spring town that is popular as a quick getaway destination for people living in Tokyo because of its location and easy access, and on top of amazing hot springs, the town is popular for its locally brewed sake.
Lake Suwa is on my itinerary for several reasons. For one, after a trip to Matsumoto, I want to take it easy and explore someplace new, and that would be Lake Suwa. Better yet, I can have a wonderful view of Lake Suwa from Kamisuwa, which is a popular hot spring destination that is accessible from Matsumoto, and hot springs are always welcome in my itinerary. The third reason is perhaps the most important and is related to my hobby: watching anime! Lake Suwa is said to be the inspiration for the climactic lake scene in “Your Name” (「君の名は。」 Kimi no Na wa), one of the most successful anime movies in recent years. So, in a way, my visit to the lake is sort of a mini-anime pilgrimage, and for me to see for myself why this lake is claimed to have inspired director Shinkai Makoto (新海誠) for his film.
Tateishi Park (立石公園)
Address: 10399 Kamisuwa, Suwa-shi, Nagano 392-0003
Access: 30-minute walk from JR Kami-Suwa Station (JR上諏訪駅)
Day 2: Hakuba (白馬)
The second day of my Shin’etsu railway trip is all about hiking and getting in touch with the sheer beauty of Nagano’s nature. For that, I look no further than Hakuba (白馬), a village known for being one of the main venues for the 1998 Winter Olympics. Although Hakuba is renowned as a winter destination for its ski courses and resorts, it’s just as popular for the summer too, and I will be heading here for a hiking adventure up the mountains in search of a visually stunning pond…
④ Happo Pond (八方池)
High up the mountains at an altitude of 2,060m lies Happo Pond, a tranquil and captivating pond that is one of the natural highlights of Hakuba. It is surrounded by the majestic Hakuba Sanzan (白馬三山 Hakuba Three Mountains), and when the weather is fair, the mountains are even reflected on Happo Pond’s clear water. The pond is one of the biggest draws to Hakuba in the summer and autumn, where people will hike for 1.5 hours from the nearest lift station just to have a glimpse of it.
I would make Day 2 a whole-day affair to Hakuba, particularly since it’s a full-day hiking experience up the mountains. Hiking is a must-do activity for me in the summer because it’s a unique experience that I can’t have back home, and the one thing I want to do in Nagano is to climb up the mountains. Seeking out Happo Pond helps me to achieve that goal, and its sheer beauty makes for a worthy reward for me.
Visiting Happo Pond would take a lot of time, so for Day 2, I will start my day extremely early and take the first train out of Matsumoto. Once at Hakuba, I will make my way to the Happo Gondola where my ascent up the mountain begins with a ride on the Happo-One Gondola Lift “Adam”. After that, I need to ride the Alpen Quad Lift, and finally to the Grat Quad Lift. Only after that does the hiking begin, which would take around 90 minutes to reach Happo Pond. I strongly recommend getting the Happo Alpen Line (Return) ticket, which is a discounted return ticket that includes all three lifts.
Happo Gondola (for Happo Pond 八方池)
Address: 4258 Happo, Hakuba, Kitaazumi, Nagano 399-9301
Access: 5-minute bus ride from JR Hakuba Station (白馬駅)
Day 3: Matsumoto (松本) → Myoko-Kogen (妙高高原)
For Day 3, my railway journey continues to the other side of Shin’etsu, namely Niigata Prefecture. I bid farewell to Matsumoto and Nagano, and hop on the train to head over to my next destination: Myoko-Kogen, a place that’s renowned as a winter destination for its ski resorts, but is also popular as a summer getaway and a hot spring haven.
For this transfer, I’ll be riding the Limited Express Shinano from JR Matsumoto Station to JR Nagano Station (JR長野駅), and then switch to the Shinano Railway and make my way to Myōkō-Kōgen Station (妙高高原駅). In all, this transfer would take me around 2 hours. At Myōkō-Kōgen Station, I will be taking a local bus to my next destination, but with some spare time on my hands until its arrival, I can grab a quick lunch near the station.
⑤ Imori Pond (いもり池)
In the Ikenotaira (池の平) part of Myoko-Kogen lies Imori Pond, which is only a 10–15-minute bus ride away from Myōkō-Kōgen Station. The pond features the grand Mount Myoko (妙高山 Myōkō-san) in the background, and the pond’s clear still water will reflect the mountain like a mirror on clear days. Myoko-Kogen is a ski resort area, so it’s primarily known as a winter destination. However, I am interested in visiting the place more during the green season, a time when I get to witness the area’s greenery and tranquillity. In particular, Imori Pond makes for the perfect spot to capture the area’s green scenery, especially with Mount Myoko right in the far-distant background. It makes for a great counterpart to Happo Pond in Nagano: unlike hiking up the mountains to see the pond, I can take a stroll around the pond and gaze at a mountain in the distance.
Visitors can access Imori Pond easily from Myōkō-Kōgen Station by taking a local bus on the Suginosawa Line. The bus ride takes only 10 minutes per one-way. More details on the bus services can be found here.
Imori Pond (いもり池)
Address: Ikenotaira, Myoko, Niigata 949-2112
Access: 9-minute bus ride from Myōkō-Kōgen Station (妙高高原駅)
⑥ Tsubame Onsen (燕温泉)
Do you know what the city of Myoko is also known for? Hot springs. The village is famous for its hot spring water that comes from Mount Myoko, and hence there are many hot spring inns and hotels in the area. There are seven hot spring areas in Myoko, each with its own distinctive characteristics of hot spring water:
- Myoko Onsen (妙高温泉) which is the nearest to Myōkō-Kōgen Station and has clear hot spring water
- Ikenotaira Onsen (池の平温泉), which has hot spring water that can be clear or even blackish
- Suginosawa Onsen (杉野沢温泉), which has clear hot spring water
- Akakura Onsen (赤倉温泉), which has clear hot spring water
- Shin-Akakura Onsen (新赤倉温泉), which has clear hot spring water
- Seki Onsen (関温泉), which has a reddish hot spring water
- Tsubame Onsen (燕温泉), which has a milky-white hot spring water
One of the things I would not expect from a railway trip to Shin’etsu is a ‘hot spring-crawling’ experience, and Myoko is the one place that offers that opportunity. Even though some of the hot spring baths in the locations above are located in hotels, for a fee, they are available for non-staying guests. So hot spring fans can rejoice: Myoko is the one place where you can crawl from one hot spring to another.
For Day 3, my accommodation would be here at a hot spring inn in Myoko. But with many accommodations to choose from, which one would I go for? My answer would be Tsubame Onsen. For someone with an adventurous spirit like myself, I would choose a hot spring that is located off the beaten path, and away from the other hot springs for some peace and quiet. Tsubame Onsen is located high up in the mountains and offers a spectacular view of the village below, and it has some of the best hot spring water in the area, where it is said to help those with rheumatism, neuralgia, and various skin ailments.
I will spend the night here for the end of Day 3, and if there is one hotel that I would like to check out here, it would be Hanabun. It’s an understated hotel with a hot spring bath that offers a wonderful view of the surrounding valleys and waterfalls. This is one of those times when I can enjoy staying in a Japanese-style room with tatami mats, and the hotel also has plans for solo and group travellers. As an added convenience, there’s a bus service here that can bring me to Sekiyama Station (関山駅 Sekiyama-eki), from where I can continue my journey after my stay here.
Hanabun (燕温泉の旅館 源泉の湯 花文)
Address: 6-087 Tsubame Onsen, Myoko, Niigata 949 2235
Access: 20-minute bus ride from Sekiyama Station (関山駅)
Day 4: Myoko-Kogen → Niigata (新潟)
On the next part of my railway trip throughout Shin’etsu, I will journey northward to the city of Niigata, the capital of Niigata Prefecture. It takes quite some time to travel from Myoko-Kogen to Niigata, so my day starts with an early hotel check-out and transfer to Sekiyama Station. After that, a small surprise awaits…
BONUS: Quick tour to Takada Castle Ruins Park
Do you know what I enjoy about travelling by railway? It’s easy to make quick trips! Before I make my way northward to Niigata City (新潟市), I can make a short tour of a special place not far from Myoko-Kogen and pay a visit to the second castle in my itinerary.
Located in the city of Jōetsu (上越) is Takada Castle Ruins Park (高田城跡公園), a place that features the namesake castle surrounded by a moat. The park is particularly famous as a spring destination, where people can witness more than 4,000 cherry blossom trees bloom. However, visiting the park during the green season is also a good idea when the ambience is completely different from that of spring. From Sekiyama Station, I can take the Echigo Tokimeki Railway’s Myōkō Haneuma Line to Takada Station (高田駅) and take a 15-minute walk from the station to the park. After a short stroll around it, I can return to the station and hop on a particular special train to continue my journey to Niigata City.
(Note: the JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area) does not cover the section between Sekiyama Station and Arai Station on the Echigo Tokimeki Railway’s Myōkō Haneuma Line, so an additional fare is required to travel on this section for pass holders.)
Takada Castle Ruins Park (高田城跡公園)
Address: 44-1 Motoshiro, Jōetsu, Niigata
Access: 15-minute walk from Takada Station (高田駅)
⑦ Sasagawa Nagare (笹川流れ)
Just a 5-minute walk away from JR Kuwagawa Station (JR桑川駅 Kuwagawa-eki) is Sasagawa Nagare, an 11km coastline with a breathtaking view of the Sea of Japan. The coastline features many uniquely eroded rock formations created by the rough waters from the sea, and some of the rocks are even said to resemble spectacles and even dinosaurs! Visitors can also hop on a 40-minute boat ride too, which will provide a close-up view of the uniquely shaped rock formations and even feed the flying seagulls that flock to the sea and coastline.
Beautiful clear blue waters, white sandy beaches, crying seagulls, the salty breeze… how does this sound to you? It sounds like a heavenly experience for me! Being able to walk leisurely on the beach is therapeutic to me, where I would feel like all of my life’s problems and worries would be washed away by the waves into the open sea. Sasagawa Nagare is one of the two coastlines that I want to visit in Japan. I have been to the Sanriku Coast (三陸海岸 Sanriku Kaigan) many years ago, where it stretches along the eastern side of Tohoku facing the Pacific Ocean. Visiting Sasagawa Nagare feels like the only thing I must do, since this coastline faces the exact opposite direction. When I visit this coastline, I can finally say that I have seen the two seas that surround northeastern Japan in person.
And how would I wrap up Day 4? By witnessing the sunset along the coastline. The view is said to be stunning, where the sun will cast a shadow on the rock formations and paint the sky crimson red. Only after witnessing this view shall I feel wholly satisfied before I make my way back to Niigata for the night.
Day 5: Shibata (新発田)
For the final day, I want to explore a bit about Niigata Prefecture’s history and culture, so I will make a trip to the city of Shibata, which is only a 35-minute train ride away from Niigata City. In this quiet and peaceful city lies a historical castle, one that symbolises the region’s feudal past.
⑧ Shibata Castle Ruins Park (新発田城址公園)
Walk for 20 minutes from JR Shibata Station (JR新発田駅 Shibata-eki), and I will reach the Shibata Castle Ruins Park, a popular place for rest and relaxation for the locals. The centrepiece of the park is Shibata Castle, built between 12th and 14th century. It is also known as “Iris Castle” (菖蒲城), and the park is open throughout the year.
Shibata Castle interests me for two reasons. One is for cultural significance: the main gate and Ninomaru Sumi Yagura, one of the castle towers, are designated as Important Cultural Properties. The other is for my appreciation of castles: it is one of Japan’s Top 100 Castles (日本百名城 Nihon Hyaku-Meijō). I began this journey with a castle in Matsumoto, so it seems only proper for me to end it with a castle too, this time in Shibata.
Shibata Castle Ruins Park (新発田城址公園)
Address: 6-4 Otemachi, Shibata, Niigata 957-0052
Access: 20-minute walk from JR Shibata Station (JR新発田駅)
⑨ Niigata City (新潟市)
After a trip to Shibata, I will have some time to spare before my train back to Tokyo, so why not explore the city of Niigata while I’m here? The first place I would visit in this city is of course the Bandai Bridge (萬代橋), which is only a 15-minute walk from JR Niigata Station. It connects the new, vibrant town of Bandai in the south with the old, historic town of Furumachi in the north, bridging the new and the old (figuratively and literally). On top of that, it’s a symbol of the city’s resilience, more so when it has undergone several reconstructions since 1886 and even survived a major earthquake in 1964.
With that, my railway trip in Shin’etsu comes to an end, and how else would I wrap it up than with one last train ride? From JR Niigata Station, I can hop on the E7 series that runs on the Jōetsu Shinkansen and make a direct trip back to Tokyo.
Summing up my itinerary
Just like my trip around Tohoku, the best kind of trip around Shinetsu is one that includes everything: nature, sightseeing, hot springs, famous attractions, and travelling to such places by train. JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area) enables me to do all the above, and with unlimited rides on JR trains in the region for 5 consecutive days, I can stand to save a lot of money on train fares.
So if you are thinking of visiting Nagano and Niigata, check out the JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area), an affordable pass offering unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) in the valid area for 5 consecutive days. At only ¥27,000, you can save a lot of money if you travel extensively by train in the region. It can also be used for automatic ticket gates, and foreign passport holders living in Japan are also eligible to use this pass. You can also reserve seats with the rail pass for free on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
Header image credit: (clockwise from top left) photoAC, Niigata Prefecture, Niigata Prefecture, Nagano Prefecture / JNTO
