One of the reasons peopleーboth first-timers and repeat travellersーhead to Japan is for their hot springs (温泉 onsen). Dipping into natural spring water and gazing at the panoramic view in the surroundings is something that captivates both local and foreign visitors. As a Singaporean, I also fancy a visit to a hot spring in Japan; it’s a novel experience that I can never experience here in Singapore. Plus, hot springs are a year-round affair, whether it’s during the warm summer or the cold winter. It’s always a good time to experience it regardless of the season. Like most other people, I personally think the best season for hot springs is winter. Nothing beats immersing the lower half of your body in hot spring water, while your upper half basks in the chilly snow.
When it comes to hot springs in Japan, several usual suspects come to mind for the average traveller. Usual popular hotspots for hot springs in Japan, especially for first-timers, include Hakone in Kanagawa, Noboribetsu in Hokkaido, and Beppu in Oita. However, the seasoned traveller would tell you that some of the best hot springs in Japan can also be found in eastern and central Japan! To show you what I mean, let me introduce you to two hot spring towns that are best visited in winter.
Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort
Don’t let the name fool you: although it bears the name ‘ski resort’, it’s also a hot spring resort. Located in the northern prefecture of Nagano, this sleepy village has turned into an international ski resort catering to both local and foreign visitors. It attracted global attention more than twenty years ago, when Nagano hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics. Since then, the village has gradually transformed into a ski enclave, boasting many ski lodges, hotels, restaurants, and bars with international menus written in multiple languages.
Nozawa is split into two sections: one is the Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort (野沢温泉スキーリゾート) and the other, sitting at the base, is the Nozawa Onsen hot spring town. It is a nostalgic and rustic town that transports visitors back in time to the Edo Period. Lining up the streets are public bathhouses, traditional inns (旅館 ryokan), restaurants and bars. The bathhouses are free to use for the public, but donations are more than welcome to keep the bathhouses running.
The first time I went there, I was fascinated by the sheer juxtaposition of the village. On one hand, you have the ski resorts and neighbouring bars and restaurants that cater to the international clientele. It starkly reminded me a lot of Niseko in Hokkaido: a ski community with an ecosystem to call its own. On the other hand, there is the hot spring that harkens back to the historic tradition of public bathhouses, amenities that were a vital feature to the local community. I highly recommend paying a visit to one of their public baths (外湯 soto-yu); there are more than 10 in Nozawa Onsen, and if you can visit all of them, more power to you! For more details on these public baths, click here.
Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort (野沢温泉スキーリゾート)
Address: Shimotakai-gun, Nagano
Access: 20-minute bus ride on the Nozawa Onsen Liner from JR Iiyama Station (JR飯山駅).
Ginzan Onsen
Translated as ‘Silver Mountain Hot Spring’, Ginzan Onsen (銀山温泉) is a secluded hot spring town deep in the mountains of Yamagata Prefecture in the region of Tohoku. What used to be a silver mining town, it has gradually transformed into one of the most picturesque hot spring towns in Japan. The town is lined with traditionally designed hot spring inns, invoking a nostalgic style of a long-gone era. On top of lodgings with hot springs, there are also bathhouses and a foot bath (足湯 ashiyu) open to the public.
I got to visit this place in February this year, and I was mesmerised the first time I laid my eyes on it. It seems like a huge painting, especially when pictured against the backdrop of drizzling snow. Plusーand this is for Studio Ghibli fansーGinzan Onsen is the main inspiration behind the cinematic marvel “Spirited Away” (千と千尋の神隠し Sen to Chihiro no Kamikakushi), one of renowned director Miyazaki Hayao’s greatest works. It feels like stepping like a magical wonderland, and it’s something that no photograph can capture and explain.
Ginzan Onsen (銀山温泉)
Address: Ginzan Onsen, Obanazawa-shi, Yamagata Prefecture
Access: 35-minute bus ride from JR Ōishida Station (JR大石田駅).
JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area)
The JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area for 5 consecutive days. It’s ¥30,000, making it much cheaper than a round-trip train fare between Tokyo and Akita. Pass holders can also reserve seats online for up to a month in advance for free on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area)
The JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area) is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area for 5 consecutive days. It’s only ¥27,000, making it a considerable option for rail travellers. Pass holders can also reserve seats online for up to a month in advance for free on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
Header image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang
