Updated as of 8 June 2023
Originally published on 28 May 2021
One of my favourite regions is Tohoku (東北地方), and once upon a time, I thought out a full itinerary of the places I wanted to visit in the region if I had the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area). My ideal Tohoku trip will include a bit of everything so that it feels complete. If it were for the green season, my trip would include the following themes:
- Visit famous attractions like the “Three Great Views of Japan” and UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
- Witness amazing natural sceneries, such as sea views and natural greenery.
- Engage in physical activity, like exploring new places on foot and hiking.
- Staying in a hot spring town and enjoy a hot spring bath.
- Travelling by railway!
The last point is an important one for me. I want my travel adventure to be a sensory experience; travelling by train is the best way to achieve that. It’s not just about getting from one place to another; it’s about enjoying the travel itself. By travelling on the railroads, I can enjoy the changing scenery from the comfort of my seat as my train makes its way to my destination. Watching the scenery unfold before me gradually builds up the anticipation and excitement of travel itself, so train travel is simply the way to go for me.
This article is about my ideal railway travel in Tohoku; more specifically, where would I go in the Tohoku Region (東北地方) if I had the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area). It’s been quite a while since I last used it, and I’ve been aching to use it again if the chance comes again. It’s time for us to explore what Tohoku has in store for us, especially in the green season, and how I would make full use of the consecutive 5-day pass.
Day 1: Tokyo (東京) → Miyagi (宮城)
My journey would start from Tokyo, where I would hop on board the Tohoku Shinkansen (東北新幹線) from JR Tokyo Station (JR東京駅). The station is the starting point for multiple bullet train services that run throughout the country, and for JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) holders, this would naturally be where their journey starts.
My first stop on this train travel is JR Sendai Station (JR仙台駅), the main railway station to the city of Sendai (仙台市) in Miyagi Prefecture (宮城県) and the main gateway to Tohoku. From here, I would proceed with my first travel destination, one that I’ve been meaning to visit for the longest time: Matsushima Bay.
① Matsushima Bay (松島湾)
Just a 40-minute train ride from Sendai is the beautiful Matsushima Bay. As one of the Three Views of Japan (日本三景), and the only one in Tohoku, it is one of the highlights for most travellers to Miyagi and Tohoku. This would be the first destination on my bucket list, and one of high priority.
Matsushima is a group of islets that are covered with pine trees—the name translates as “pine island”, after all—and the view is nothing short of amazing. Imagine climbing up to a high spot to catch an endless panoramic view of verdant green islands on the azure-coloured sea on a clear day. Better yet, visitors can get different versions of this view depending on the time of the day. Visitors can come here during the day when they can have a wondrous clear view of the entire area in its fullest contrasting colours, or at sunset when the sky turns fiery crimson, and the whole area is cast in shadow.
I believe that the best way to discover a new place is by walking, and visitors can easily visit three islets—Godaido (五大堂), Fukuurajima (福浦島) and Oshima (雄島)—by walking there from the mainland as they are connected by red footbridges. Not only can I enjoy the glorious view of Matsushima, but I can also enjoy the historical temple of Godaido, cross the iconic red bridge to Fukuurajima, and explore the caves of Oshima.
And how would I end my trip to Matsushima? With a refreshing sightseeing cruise, of course. I have taken cruises several times in Japan before, and I always love the feeling of the breeze on my face as the boat makes its way along the water. To journey through the many islets in Matsushima is only the befitting way for me to wrap up my trip here before making my way back to Sendai.
Matsushima Bay (松島湾)
Address: 98-1 Matsushima, Matsushima-cho, Miyagi 981-0213
Access: 5-minute walk from JR Matsushimakaigan Station (JR松島海岸駅)
Day 2: Iwate (岩手)
For the next segment of my Tohoku train travel, I imagine myself heading northward to Iwate, Japan’s second-largest prefecture and one steeped with rich history and culture, and unparalleled pristine greenery. This is because Iwate is home to one of the country’s most coveted treasures that have been on my to-do list for the longest time.
② Hiraizumi (平泉)
Hiraizumi is a historical town that is home to historical monuments and sites designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites (世界遺産). The town, located on the southern side of Iwate, features many temples that showcase the influences of Buddhism and region’s feudal past. It is in this town where visitors will find some of the most prominent temples in the country, such as Chuson-ji (中尊寺) and Motsu-ji (毛越寺).
Chuson-ji, built as early as the 9th century, is the most famous attraction in Hiraizumi. This is also where the Konjikido Hall is located, and like the famous Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto, the hall is completely covered in gold leaf. Motsu-ji is the other major temple in Hiraizumi, and together with Chuson-ji, it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011. This temple is also steeped in rich history, and is located amidst a picturesque Jōdo (Pure Land Buddhist) garden that visitors can visit to enjoy some peace and tranquillity.
While the first segment of my trip involves nature and the sea view, the second is about Tohoku’s rich history and culture, and I can’t think of a better place other than the town of Hiraizumi. Not only can I learn a bit more about the history of the region, but I can also take it easy here and enjoy the peaceful green surroundings before the next leg of my adventure.
Chusonji Temple (中尊寺)
Address: Koromonoseki-202 Hiraizumi, Nishiiwai-gun, Iwate 029-4102
Access: 20-minute bus ride from JR Ichinoseki Station (JR一ノ関駅), or a 5-minute bus ride from JR Hiraizumi Station (JR平泉駅)
Motsuji Temple (毛越寺)
Address: Osawa-58, Hiraizumi, Nishiiwai-gun, Iwate 029-402
Access: 20-minute walk from Chusonji Temple, or a 10-minute walk from JR Hiraizumi Station (JR平泉駅)
③ Geibikei Gorge (猊鼻渓)
For the next part of Day 2, I would head over to Geibikei Gorge, one of the most popular attractions in Iwate apart from Hiraizumi. As one of the “100 Landscapes of Japan” (日本百景), it is yet another natural attraction that visitors should not miss when travelling in Tohoku.
Imagine this: a relaxing boat ride along a serene river in a gorge, gazing at imposing limestone cliffs left and right with folk songs sung by the boatman in the background. Sounds like an experience I wouldn’t want to miss. Better yet, there’s something fun at the end of the river: throwing a lucky stone (運玉 undama) into a hole on the opposite bank of the river. Sounds like a fun challenge worth taking!
Geibikei Gorge (猊鼻渓)
Address: Machi-467 Higashiyamacho Nagasaka, Ichinoseki, Iwate 029-0302
Access: 5-minute walk from JR Geibikei Station (猊鼻渓駅)
Day 3: Aomori (青森)
For the third day of my trip, I am heading to Tohoku’s northernmost prefecture: Aomori, famous for its pristine natural beauty throughout the year and its fruits. When it comes to natural sceneries, Aomori is home to some of the best natural views in Japan.
④ Lake Towada (十和田湖) / Oirase Keiryu (奥入瀬渓流)
Spanning across prefectures Aomori (青森) and Akita (秋田) is Lake Towada, Japan’s largest caldera lake and one of the highlights of the Towada-Hachimantai National Park (十和田八幡平国立公園). Volcanic activity took place approximately 2,000 years ago, giving birth to this lake that sits approximately 400m above sea level.
I am always partial towards caldera lakes in Japan. They always make for exquisite natural views, and no matter the season or even the time, they always look majestic. Lake Towada is one of the numerous caldera lakes that are still on my bucket list, and I imagine myself marvelling at this wondrous view when I come to Aomori someday. The peak season for visiting Lake Towada is during shinryoku (新緑) from May to June, when bright green leaves sprout after the end of spring; and autumn in late October, when the lake is surrounding by fiery red foliage.
I wouldn’t stop at only Lake Towada when exploring the natural wonders of Aomori. Flowing out from the lake is Oirase Keiryu, a picture-perfect mountain stream that is immensely popular among hikers and nature lovers during the green season. It has also been touted as one of Tohoku’s top “power spots”, which are places that people visit to get in touch with nature and endow themselves with refreshing and healing energy.
Oirase Keiryu also has picturesque waterfalls such as Kumoi no Taki Waterfall (雲井の滝) and Choshi Otaki Waterfall (銚子大滝). The sound of water falling is something I can’t quite experience back home, and this is another welcoming aspect when hiking along the stream.
Summer in Japan can be especially muggy, but the climate is relatively cooler and less humid if visitors travel to Tohoku in early and late summer, so outdoor activities become a wholly enjoyable experience. Taking part in outdoor activities is another theme I want to include in my itinerary, and I look forward to doing so during Tohoku’s green season.
Lake Towada and Oirase Keiryu are some of the main highlights in Tohoku during the green season. With magnificent views, relatively easy hiking paths, and the soothing sounds of a serene forest and gentle flowing stream, it only seems like an obvious decision for me to include these two spots in my itinerary.
Oirase Keiryu / Lake Towada (奥入瀬渓流・十和田湖)
Address: Yasumiya Towada-kohan Okuse Towada-shi Aomori-ken 018-5501
Access: 1-hour 45-minute bus ride from JR Hachinohe Station (JR八戸駅)
Day 4: Yamagata (山形)
For Day 4 of my trip, I will head southward from Aomori to the mountainous prefecture of Yamagata, yet another natural paradise of Tohoku. Why Yamagata? Because here lies another gem of an attraction with a spectacular view, one that exemplifies the importance of nature and spirituality in Japan.
⑤ Yamadera (山寺)
Translated as “mountain temple”, Yamadera is a temple that sits in the mountains in northeastern Yamagata. It is one of the most important historical structures in Tohoku, for it is officially designated as a Historic Site (史跡 shiseki) and Place of Scenic Beauty (名勝 meishō). Visitors to Yamadera will come across historical structures such as the statue of Matsuo Basho, a Japanese poet who paid a visit in 1689, small statues of Jizo-san (地蔵さん), and the Godaido Hall (五大堂) where people will get a fantastic panoramic view of the surroundings.
Remember how I said I wanted something physical in my travel plan? This one is a place with my generous share of physical activity. As the temple is perched high up the mountains, getting up there requires visitors to climb up 1,000 steps. That’s the kind of challenge I don’t want to miss, especially when successful climbers are in for a reward with a breathtaking panoramic view of the town below.
Yamadera (山寺)
Address: 4456-1 Yamadera, Yamagata 999-3301
Access: 5-minute walk from JR Yamadera Station (山寺駅)
⑥ Kaminoyama Onsen (かみのやま温泉)
After climbing up 1,000 steps to Yamadera, I imagine myself being exhausted so for the next part of the day, I probably want to take it easy and just enjoy a leisurely stroll. Even better, a leisurely stroll and a hot spring stay somewhere nearby. Where else to enjoy both of them than at a hot spring town, namely Kaminoyama Onsen.
Kaminoyama is a hot spring town located at the foot of Mount Zao (蔵王山), and just 15 minutes away from Yamagata City (山形市) by Shinkansen. It is one of Yamagata Prefecture’s most beloved hot springs, and some of the hot springs date back to the 15th century. In addition to popular hot spring inns, Kaminoyama has footbaths and public bathhouses everywhere, and in the town centre there’s also a preserved samurai district.
For this leg of the trip, I want to simply take it easy and enjoy a hot spring experience. Hot springs can be enjoyed at any time throughout the year but in the green season however, hot springs are best enjoyed after long hikes where the steamy hot spring water has therapeutic effects on the tired body, making for a heavenly experience.
Kaminoyama footbaths (上山足湯)
Address: 3-7 Motojonai, Kaminoyama, Yamagata 999-3154
Access: 5–10-minute walk from JR Kaminoyamaonsen Station (かみのやま温泉駅)
Day 5: Fukushima (福島)
Naturally, the last day is where I make my trip back to my starting point (in this case, Tokyo). This is the part where most visitors end their trip, but for me, since the pass allows me unlimited rides on JR trains in Tohoku, there’s just one more place I can visit before wrapping up my railway journey.
⑦ Goshikinuma (五色沼)
In Fukushima Prefecture (福島県) lies Goshikinuma, a picture-perfect group of volcanic ponds formed when Mount Bandai (磐梯山) erupted many years ago. The name translates as “Five Coloured Ponds” but despite its name, there are more than just five ponds. The main ones include Bishamonnuma (毘沙門沼), Bentennuma (弁天沼), Akanuma (赤沼), Aonuma (青沼), and Midoro-numa (深泥沼).
The different ponds at Goshikinuma. | ©photoACWhat fascinates me about Goshikinuma is how each pond has its quirks. For example, visitors can rent a boat and enjoy rowing on Bishamonnuma, the largest pond among them, they can catch a glimpse of the many carp that live in the pond if they’re lucky. For Akanuma, the water’s high iron content gives the surrounding plants a reddish tint. And for Aonuma, the water has a brilliant bluish-green hue.
Goshikinuma (五色沼)
Address: Kengamine Hibara, Kitashiobara, Yama District, Fukushima 966-0501
Access: 30–40-minute bus ride from JR Inawashiro Station (JR猪苗代駅)
Where would I stay for this trip?
If a trip features a destination in a different prefecture almost every day, visitors might think that they need to change accommodations often, which would be quite a hassle. The good news, however: they don’t need to do so when travelling in Tohoku. JR EAST’s railway connectivity is highly extensive in the region, so visitors can travel between prefectures very easily. For my proposed trip explained above, I would only need three accommodations, and the first one is a familiar name for frequent travellers to Tohoku, and is highly popular for its sheer convenience in location and value for money.
Hotel Metropolitan Sendai (ホテルメトロポリタン仙台)
JR Sendai Station (JR仙台駅) is a major junction railway station in Miyagi Prefecture (宮城) that serves as a hub for train travel in Tohoku. It is a stop for Tohoku Shinkansen and Akita Shinkansen, and travellers in the region are almost bound to pass through this station at some point in their journeys. For my first accommodation, I would like to base myself somewhere close to this station so that I can get to Matsushima Bay and Hiraizumi easily. And no other accommodation comes close to my ideal choice than Hotel Metropolitan Sendai.
This hotel is located right at the train station itself and has all the facilities I welcome for my stay: clean and spacious rooms, chic restaurants, and a central location in Sendai city too. By essentially staying at the hotel located in the station, I can travel to all two locations above without having to change accommodation each time. How convenient is that!
Hotel Metropolitan Sendai (ホテルメトロポリタン仙台)
Address: 1-1-1 Chuo, Aoba Ward, Sendai City, Miyagi 980-8477
Access: 1-minute walk from JR Sendai Station (JR仙台駅)
Hotel Metropolitan Morioka New Wing (ホテルメトロポリタン盛岡ニューウィング)
For exploring the far northernmost parts of Tohoku such as prefectures Iwate and Aomori, it would be immensely helpful to have accommodation somewhere in that region. For my second accommodation, I picture myself staying in Morioka, the capital city of Iwate, and one choice stands out for me: Hotel Metropolitan Morioka New Wing.
Hotel Metropolitan Morioka New Wing is only a 4-minute walk from JR Morioka Station (JR盛岡駅), which is another major railway station in Tohoku. It has all the amenities and services I need for my railway adventure, and it serves as the perfect pit stop for my trip to Lake Towada / Oirase Keiryu. But for those looking for the best location and convenience, there’s also Hotel Metropolitan Morioka which is located at JR Morioka Station itself.
Hotel Metropolitan Morioka (ホテルメトロポリタン盛岡)
Address: 1-44, Morioka Ekimae-dori, Morioka, Iwate 020-0034
Access: 4-minute walk from JR Morioka Station (JR盛岡駅)
Hayamakan (葉山舘)
My third and final accommodation is all about rest and relaxation, unlike my first which was more about convenience and connectivity. Since this is for the last portion of my trip, I would choose one near central Yamagata so that I can visit Yamadera and Kaminoyama Onsen easily. Since I want a memorable hot spring inn experience on top of that, an immediate choice comes to mind: Hayamakan in Kaminoyama.
Kaminoyama Onsen has many hot spring inns, so why do I choose Hayamakan? Firstly, the inn offers plans for solo guests, and I almost always travel solo, so that’s a plus. It has rooms with private hot spring baths… another huge plus for me who values privacy. The location is just a 5-minute drive away from JR Kaminoyamaonsen Station and offers complimentary shuttle bus service for their guests. Multi-course kaiseki meals are also available.
Hayamakan (葉山舘)
Address: 5-10 Hayama, Kaminoyama, Yamagata 999-3242
Access: 10-minute shuttle bus ride from JR Kaminoyamaonsen Station (JRかみのやま温泉駅)
Summing up my itinerary
My ideal railway trip around Tohoku would include a bit of everything, and the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) allows me to do all the above and enjoy railway travel on top of that. Because of unlimited train rides on JR trains in the region for 5 consecutive days, I can travel to places that would cost me a lot if I were to pay the ordinary fare instead.
So if you are thinking of visiting the Tohoku region, check out the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area), an affordable pass offering unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) in the valid area for 5 consecutive days. The pass also covers some JR Kanto and JR Tohoku buses. At only ¥30,000, you can save a lot of money if you travel extensively by trains in the region. It can also be used for automatic ticket gates, what’s more, foreign passport holders living in Japan are also eligible to use this pass so your travel buddies who are based in Japan can now travel with you at a much-reduced price. Furthermore, the pass enables you to hop on the Joyful Trains for free, and you can reserve your seats at the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
What’s more, JAPAN RAIL CLUB is now running a special discount campaign on the JR EAST PASS for all omiyage box subscribers! Simply purchase a 3, 6, or 12-month membership plan and you’ll be entitled to 15% OFF all purchases of the JR EAST PASS (Nagano, Niigata area) and JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) made on our website.
Header image credit: (clockwise from top left) photoAC, 岩手県観光協会, 東北観光推進機構, photoAC
