An alley (横丁 yokochō) is a narrow street in Japan that is often lined with izakaya (居酒屋) and yakitori stalls, and is often associated with people looking for an affordable place to drink and mingle with friends late at night. It is the perfect type of place for people looking for a fun atmosphere, great (and especially affordable) food, and good sake. Plus, it would be a waste to overlook them, especially for those seeking an authentic and uniquely Japanese nightlife experience.
The Tohoku Region (東北地方 Tōhoku-chihō) has its fair share of alleys, some with their quirks that people ought to check out. For this article, I will introduce the alleys of Tohoku, the lesser-known gems in the northeastern region that are different from your usual tourist attractions. Many visitors flock to Tohoku to experience its natural beauty, great food, and wonderful hot springs. But alleys? That is something unusual, and what you can find here might surprise you.
Hachinohe, Aomori Prefecture: Miroku-Yokocho (みろく横丁)
Hachinohe (八戸市) is a quiet city on the south-eastern side of Aomori Prefecture (青森県), the northernmost prefecture in Tohoku. The city is a food haven that offers some of Aomori’s best seafood. Sushi is a must for any visitors, but if there’s one seafood that deserves attention, it’s their squid (イカ ika). The port of Hachinohe catches the most amount of squid in Japan, and it has a wide variety available: neon flying squid (赤烏賊 aka-ika), Japanese flying squid (鯣烏賊 surume-ika), spear squid (槍烏賊 yari-ika), just to name a few.
When in Hachinohe, eat senbei-jiru (せんべい汁)! Tohoku Region produces a lot of wheat because of the cold weather, and Aomori specialises in making wheat crackers known as Nanbu-senbei (南部せんべい). And this is how their local specialty senbei-jiru came to be, where Nanbu wheat crackers are added to a hearty soup and best enjoyed during chilly seasons. They can be found everywhere in Hachinohe, including at Miroku-Yokocho, and it’s one of the definitive dishes of the city that is not to be missed.
Another dish to try in Hachinohe is ichigoni (いちご煮), which is a soup made with fresh sea urchin and abalone. Hachinohe is blessed with amazing seafood because of its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, and this dish is a perfect example to showcase its food. Also, the name translates as “strawberry soup”, although it doesn’t have any strawberries in it, because of the bits of sea urchin that float in the milky white broth of the soup.
Hachinohe is home to a quirky food stall village named Miroku-Yokocho. The name comes from its location, running through Mikkamachi (三日町, where “Mi” means three) and Muikamachi (六日町, where “Muika” means sixth day). Although it is an alley, it is unlike the ones most people would imagine.
Imagine this: 26 brightly decorated stalls in a single lively space, showcasing local Aomori delicacies. That’s what Miroku-Yokocho is about: an enclave for foodies to taste what Hachinohe has to offer under one roof. Each stall features its specialty menu items using special local ingredients, and they all pair perfectly with a side of alcohol.
Like a typically authentic alley, Miroku-Yokocho has a packed and boisterous atmosphere. Although located in a quiet city that is practically empty after 7pm, the alley is crowded in the evenings, even on weekdays! Each food stall is 3.3 square metres in size, and can accommodate only up to 8–10 customers at a time. Plus, the stalls are close to each other, so patrons can easily hop from one stall to another. Imagine that: a food-crawling experience where you can try all of Hachinohe’s local specialties in one night!
Highlights of Miroku-Yokocho
If you want to have a food crawl but don’t know where to start, then fret not. Here are some highlights of selected shops at the food village to get your food-crawling ideas up and going.
① Odaidokoro NENE (お台所ねね)
Come here for local cuisines and fresh seafood, and dine in a homely atmosphere. The shopkeeper lady, who is regularly dressed in traditional Japanese clothing, is especially kind and is even known to be a senbei-jiru “meister”!
② Umi no Sachi MIMI (海の幸「美味」)
MIMI specialises in serving fresh and delicious fish, alongside a wide selection of local sake. The owner of the shop used to be a fisherman.
③ Natsukashiya (懐かし屋)
Here’s another shop that specialises in fresh fish straight from the Hachinohe Port. Their house special is the mackerel, best enjoyed grilled or as sashimi.
④ Mensho (めん匠)
What better way to end a night of delicious sake than with (Hachinohe) ramen! Hachinohe ramen is a specialty of the city: shoyu ramen made with chicken and dried sardines. A perfect dish to end the night (and a good way to prevent hangovers)!
Miroku-Yokocho (みろく横丁)
Address: Between Mikkamachi and Muikamachi, Hachinohe-shi, Aomori Prefecture
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Hon-Hachinohe Station (JR本八戸駅)
Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture: Iroha-Yokocho (いろは横丁) & Bunka-Yokocho (文化横丁)
When it comes to travelling in Tohoku, most people would almost visit or at least pass by Miyagi Prefecture (宮城県) at some point, for its centrality serves as a starting point for travelling around the northeastern region. And of course, people will make some time to explore the capital city Sendai (仙台市 Sendai-shi). But if you ask the locals to name some hidden gems, a few might quote the unassuming alleys right in the heart of the city.
Iroha-Yokocho is a quirky alley located in the heart of Sendai, and many foreign visitors try to visit here at least once in the city. It has roots stretching back to post-World War 2, and to this day it still retains the nostalgic ambience of the Showa Era (1926–1989).
Iroha-Yokocho is made up of an eclectic mix of more than 100 shops. Not only are there plenty of izakaya, Japanese and Western-style restaurants, but also shops selling leather goods, a cigar store, an antique shop, a classic bookstore, and (check this out) a fortune teller. For food, patrons will be spoiled for choice over the many food joints available at Iroha-Yokocho. For first-time visitors unacquainted with the usual food fare in an alley, it offers the usual default choices: ramen (probably the most popular go-to meal after a drinking session to prevent hangovers), food skewers (焼き鳥 yakitori) that are almost always ordered alongside your booze of choice, and oden (おでん), a timeless classic for a late-night dish to ease your hunger pangs.
Best of all, Iroha-Yokocho is in the metropolitan area of Sendai, and just a few blocks away from JR Sendai Station (JR仙台駅). With a central location, the alley is a favourite hangout spot for people working in that area or simply anyone in the city. It is different from your usual gloomy ones lined with hole-in-a-wall shops; this one’s worth a peek for all visitors! Iroha-Yokocho isn’t the only alley that visitors can check out in Sendai.
Bunka-Yokocho is located in the same block as Iroha-Yokocho, so it is easy to hop from one alley to another. It is along Aoba-dori (青葉通り), the main avenue of the Sendai that is directly connected to JR Sendai Station, so getting there is a cinch. Despite its central location, the alley is not as crowded as one might think, so it is conducive for those who want to enjoy a pleasant evening without the boisterous crowd.
Bunka-Yokocho is also a tad different from Iroha-Yokocho in terms of theme and ambience. Most of the longest running shops are located in Bunka Yokocho, and it’s highly recommended for visitors who want to have a feel the history of the area, or for those looking for a slow and enjoyable evening for dinner and drinks. Iroha-Yokocho however, has a lot of food and drinks but also an eclectic mix of shops—a general store, clothes shop, tea store, butcher shop—so the overall ambience is different.What makes Bunka-Yokocho and Iroha-Yokocho intriguing is the difference in atmosphere between day and night. Iroha-Yokocho is better for visitors looking for something more casual whereas Bunka-Yokocho is more suited for those looking for something classier. Nevertheless, you can feel the various eras of Japan for both places, so it feels like a miniature version of the country.
Highlights of Iroha-Yokocho
Aching to start your food and pub-crawling adventures? Here are highlights of selected shops at Iroha-Yokocho.
① Toriyoshi (鳥よし)
This restaurant serves great yakitori using fresh meats, and they are specially prepared only upon order. Reservations are highly encouraged, as the place can accommodate 6–8 people at a time.
② Nidaime (二代目)
This is a modest and homely eatery serving local cuisines and sake from Miyagi Prefecture. For the more adventurous patrons, try the basashi (馬刺し), which is horse sashimi, and torisashi (鳥刺し), which is chicken strips where only the outside is seared, leaving the inside still pink.
③ Kakigoya ROKKO (牡蠣小屋ロッコ)
ROKKO is a “eating while standing” (立ち食い・立ち飲み) type of eatery that specialises in oysters, a specialty of Miyagi Prefecture.
Highlights at Bunka-Yokocho
For a fancier night at Bunka-Yokocho, try out these selected restaurants just around the corner!
① Genji (源氏)
This retro establishment has been around for more than 70 years, and visitors will feel like they’ve been transported back in time once inside. Sake lovers must not miss this place.
② Shu Shu (酒趣)
The restaurant serves French cuisine with sake. The owner loves sake, and is meticulous in ensuring that his cuisine pairs perfectly with sake. Its wide range of sake is sourced from all over Japan, and they are carefully chosen to pair with each French delicacy so that patrons will have an unforgettable fusion dining experience.
③ Hassen (八仙)
This establishment serves Chinese cuisine, and the dumplings are to die for! Be warned: Hassen is very popular among the locals, and bee lines are formed each day so be prepared to wait during meal hours.
Iroha-Yokocho (いろは横丁)
Address: 2-3-28, Ichiban Street, Aoba Ward, Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Sendai Station (JR仙台駅)
Bunka-Yokocho (文化横丁)
Address: 2-4-16 Ichiban Street, Aoba Ward, Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture
Access: 12-minute walk from JR Sendai Station (JR仙台駅)
Closing
People often seek out the usual tourist attractions when visiting Japan, and as a result, most miss out on inconspicuous alleys that provide patrons with an authentically Japanese dining and drinking experience. Alleys are remnants of the country’s bygone days, and people often feel like they travel back in time whenever they set foot inside the narrow pavements and make their way to their favourite shops. Why not seek out these lesser-known gems and treat yourself to an unforgettable experience?
JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area)
The JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area for 5 consecutive days. It’s only ¥30,000, making it a considerable choice for rail travellers. Pass holders can also reserve seats online for up to a month in advance for free on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
Header image credit: Sendai Tourism, Convention and International Association
