Just about 2 hours away from Osaka by bullet train, Hiroshima Prefecture (広島県) and the nearby Seto Inland Sea (瀬戸内海 Seto Naikai) are some of Japan’s overlooked regions. Often referred to as Japan’s Mediterranean, the region’s mild climate makes it a pleasant destination year-round.
While Hiroshima’s historical landmarks and the Seto Inland Sea’s renowned beauty draw countless visitors each year, the region’s lesser-known treasures often remain undiscovered.
From serene islands shrouded in history to quaint towns where time seems to stand still, stray off the beaten path to these uncharted locales, uncovering a different face of Hiroshima and the Seto Inland Sea.
① Onomichi (尾道)
Located in Hiroshima Prefecture, Onomichi (尾道) is a city known for its diverse landscapes, which range from rural mountain vistas to urban areas rich in history and culture, as well as the breathtaking Seto Inland Sea (瀬戸内海). This city boasts a deep-rooted history as a key port town and commercial center for maritime transport and industry.
Onomichi is also the gateway to the Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道), one of Japan’s most popular cycling routes. Dubbed as Japan’s “Mecca for cyclists”, it has been recognised as one of the country’s “Three National Cycling Routes”, offering cyclists spectacular views of the Seto Inland Sea and the surrounding islands.
Characterised by the numerous temples, shrines, and traditional buildings nestled between the sea and mountains, Onomichi boasts a scenic backdrop that has been featured in several films, including 1953 classic film “Tokyo Story” (東京物語) by Yasujiro Ozu (小津安二郎), making it not just a significant cultural destination but also a must-visit for film enthusiasts. Dotting the city’s hillside are traditional buildings that have been meticulously restored and renovated, preserving their historical charm while infusing the area with renewed vitality.
A key attraction is Senkoji Park (千光寺公園), situated near the summit of Mount Senkoji (千光寺山), which provides a spectacular view of the Onomichi Strait (尾道狭水道) and the Seto Inland Sea below. The park, known for its rich natural surroundings, centers around the esteemed Senkoji Temple (千光寺) and is easily accessible via a ropeway. Within the park, visitors can explore the Path of Literature (文学のこみち), adorned with stones engraved with the writings of renowned poets and authors, including Matsuo Basho (松尾芭蕉) and Naoya Shiga (志賀直哉).
Also known as one of Japan’s “100 Best Night Views”, the park offers an exceptional nightscape where the illuminated port city can be admired from the summit, creating a truly unparalleled visual experience.
Just a short 5-minute walk from Onomichi Station (尾道駅), you’ll find the city’s retro shopping streets—a charming blend of old and new that stretches for about 1km. This vibrant area consists of five distinct shopping streets, featuring over 200 unique shops. As you wander through, don’t miss the nostalgic cobblestone alleys, historic pathways that effortlessly integrate with the lively atmosphere of the shopping district.
② Tomonoura (鞆の浦)
Tomonoura (鞆の浦), nestled in the heart of the Seto Inland Sea, is a historic port town with roots tracing back to the Nara Period, as referenced in the Man’yoshu (万葉集), Japan’s oldest collection of poetry. Often referred to as the “Tide-Waiting Port” (潮待ちの港), it served as a crucial stopover for ships navigating the Seto Inland Sea, where they would wait for favourable tides.
This port thrived as a center of culture and commerce, with its rich history preserved in the well-maintained Edo Period (1603–1868) port structures, including the joyato (常夜燈 stone lighthouse), gangi (雁木 stone steps), hato (波止 breakwater), tadeba (焚場 fireplace), and funabansho (船番所 boat guardhouse), making it the only port in Japan where all five of these historical facilities remain intact.
The joyato, a prominent landmark of Tomonoura, stands over 10m tall and is one of Japan’s largest stone lighthouses from the Edo Period, highlighting the port’s historical importance. Tomonoura’s stone steps, were essential for boat docking, and the Hama no O-gangi (浜の大雁木), constructed in 1811, remains in use today. Spanning approximately 150m with up to 24 steps, these stone steps are among the largest in Japan.
The town’s narrow alleys have remained largely unchanged for three centuries, and the traditional buildings in Nishimachi (西町), in southern Tomonoura, are exceptionally well-preserved, representing the Edo, Meiji, and Showa periods. This preservation creates a timeless ambiance, transporting visitors back to a bygone era. Many of Tomonoura’s townhouses feature narrow frontages, with adjacent buildings sharing exterior walls—a testament to the town’s high density even in the past.
Tomonoura’s blend of scenic Seto Inland Sea beauty and rich historical significance makes it a one-of-a-kind destination, offering insights into Japan’s maritime history. Its mix of traditional architecture and breathtaking landscapes has also led to its recognition as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.
③ Okunoshima (大久野島)
Situated to the west of the Shimanami Kaido, Okunoshima (大久野島) is a small island with a circumference of 4km, located within the Seto Inland Sea National Park (瀬戸内海国立公園). A short 15-minute boat ride from Tadanoumi Port (忠海港) in Takehara City (竹原市) grants access to this island, which features a variety of outdoor activities such as beaches, campsites, and lush fields with tropical plants, offering year-round enjoyment of nature regardless of seasons.
The island’s only accommodation facility, Kyukamura Ohkunoshima (休暇村大久野島), provides lodging, dining, and hot spring facilities, allowing guests to unwind while taking in the breathtaking views of the Seto Inland Sea, particularly at sunset.
Animal enthusiasts will be delighted to visit Okunoshima, affectionately known as “Rabbit Island” (うさぎの島), which is home to a thriving population of 500–600 wild rabbits. These sociable and tame rabbits, who are accustomed to human presence, attract numerous visitors throughout the year from both Japan and abroad.
There are various theories about how the rabbits came to inhabit the island: some believe they descended from a small group released by school children in 1971, while others think they were former test subjects released after World War II. Regardless of their origins, the rabbits have become a beloved feature and symbol of the island.
Despite its charm as Japan’s Rabbit Island, Okunoshima carries a somber history. Between 1929 and 1945, it was the site of a covert Japanese military poison gas production facility, leading to its erasure from maps until the full story emerged in 1984. Today, visitors can explore the island’s darker past through the Poison Gas Museum (大久野島毒ガス資料館) and the ruins of military structures that stand as reminders of its wartime role.
The island offers a blend of natural beauty and historical insight. The visitor center provides comprehensive information on the Seto Inland Sea’s ecology, history, and human impact, making Okunoshima not just a haven for outdoor enthusiasts but also as a place for contemplation about mankind’s environmental and historical issues.
④ Takehara Townscape Conservation Area (たけはら町並み保存地区)
Takehara (竹原), often referred to as “Little Kyoto of Aki” (安芸の小京都), is celebrated for its meticulously preserved Townscape Conservation Area (町並み保存地区), which includes numerous mansions, ancient temples, and shrines which capture the essence of the late Edo Period. This historic district, recognized as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings by the national government, showcases a tranquil ambiance and offers a window into Japan’s historical heritage.
Among Japan’s 123 “townscape conservation areas”, Takehara stands out due to its distinctive history as a salt town. During the Edo Period, Takehara thrived as a center of salt production, leading to the establishment of elegant residences and a rich cultural heritage that persists today, owing to the prosperity brought by its salt fields.
A notable highlight of Takehara is the Taketsuru Sake Brewery (竹鶴酒造), which has been in operation for over 280 years and is closely linked to Taketsuru Masataka (竹鶴政孝), the founder of Nikka Whisky (ニッカウイスキー) and a key figure in Japanese whisky history. The brewery features exhibits of brewing equipment and offers sake tastings.
Takehara’s Townscape Conservation Area, which extends about 350m along Honmachi-dori (本町通り), offers a charming glimpse of the historic townscape. The area is distinguished by its gray plaster walls and detailed latticework, reflecting the town’s historical wealth and preserving the vestiges of the Edo Period.
Visitors can explore the Post Office Ruins (郵便局跡) and ascend the stairs to Fumeikaku (普明閣), a structure inspired by Kyoto’s Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺), located within Saihoji Temple (西方寺). From this elevated viewpoint, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of Takehara, evoking the bustling salt-producing town of bygone days and enriching their historical exploration.
⑤ Shodoshima (小豆島)
Shodoshima (小豆島), though not part of Hiroshima Prefecture, stands out as the second largest island in the Seto Inland Sea and is a unique destination reachable within an hour by ferry from Kagawa Prefecture‘s Takamatsu Port (高松港). Often called the “Mediterranean of Japan”, the island enjoys a temperate climate throughout the year and is renowned for being the first in Japan to successfully cultivate olives.
Visitors can enjoy its stunning blue waters, pristine white sand beaches, and unique natural sights such as Angel Road (エンジェルロード)—a sandy path that appears at low tide and is said to fulfill wishes when crossed with a loved one.
Celebrated for its stunning natural landscapes and historical landmarks, Shodoshima is predominantly mountainous, boasting Kankakei Gorge (寒霞渓), one of Japan’s three top scenic valleys, offering awe-inspiring views of its dramatic geological features and changing seasonal scenery. Additionally, visitors can hike up to the Hoshigajo Castle Ruins (星ヶ城跡), the island’s highest point, to enjoy sweeping panoramic views and explore a variety of unique rock formations and native flora.
Overlooking the Seto Inland Sea, the island’s Mediterranean-inspired Olive Park (オリーブ公園) boasts an expansive grove of over 2,000 olive trees and an array of herbs. Visitors can explore features such as the “Greek Windmill” (ギリシャ風車), and unwind at the “Sun Olive Hot Spring” (サン・オリーブ温泉) after a day of sightseeing. The park also provides opportunities for craft activities and education on the history of olive cultivation, as well as tasting of unique olive-themed products like olive noodles and olive ice cream.
In addition to its olive heritage, Shodoshima boasts a long-standing tradition of soy sauce production, with a history spanning 400 years. Once home to around 400 soy sauce breweries during the Meiji Period, the island continues to be a significant center for soy sauce production. The Hishio-no-Sato (醤の郷) district, with its historic black wooden walls, has been designated a Modern Industrial Heritage Site, reflecting the island’s rich artisanal legacy.
Uncover a different side to Hiroshima and the Seto Inland Sea!
As you venture off the well-trodden paths of Hiroshima and the Seto Inland Sea, you’ll uncover a tapestry of experiences that offer a deeper connection to the region’s rich heritage and natural beauty.
These hidden gems, from secluded islands steeped in history to charming towns untouched by time, provide a unique perspective on the area’s cultural and historical landscape.
By exploring these lesser-known sites, you embrace the spirit of adventure and discovery, enriching your journey with the authentic and often overlooked wonders that define this remarkable region.
