One of the things I crave most when in Japan is serene, untouched nature. But I got more of that than I imagined when I decided to explore Tokushima Prefecture (徳島県)’s Iya Valley, one of Japan’s most secluded locations, with my family in the summer of 2017.
Iya Valley (祖谷渓 Iya-kei) is so secluded that it was historically the hiding place of choice for fallen warriors! It was the perfect escape for me too, from the noise of everyday life.
Day 1: Iya-no Kazurabashi, Nishi Iya
The gateway to Iya Valley is Oboke Station (大歩危駅), one of the area’s few signs of modernity. Stepping off the train, one of the first few things I notice is that there are no konbini (convenience stores) in sight—not even a vending machine!
Iya Valley is roughly divided into two areas, the more accessible Nishi Iya (西祖谷), where most hotels are clustered, and the deeper Higashi Iya (東祖谷) where mountain villages remain as they have from the past (more on that later).
Our first night is still relatively within comfort zone in Nishi Iya’s Hotel Kazurabashi, named after the area’s main attraction: Iya-no Kazurabashi (祖谷のかずら橋), the largest of three vine bridges remaining in the valley.
Thankfully, there are local buses to take us there, and after dropping off our bags we quickly set off for the eponymous bridge, just a 15-minute walk away.
Already, I am wowed by the vast mountains all around me and the gushing river deep below. It really feels like you’ve been transported to a completely different realm!
The anticipated vine bridge is breathtaking too, in more ways than one. Those afraid of heights should note that not only does the bridge sway, but the floor is made of thick wooden sticks spaced apart such that you can see right through to the river below. Passage is only allowed one-way, so once you step on there’s no return. No one around dared to cross without holding on to the thick ropes of vine at the side.
As a thrill-seeker, I was overjoyed however. And rest assured that the bridge is reinforced with steel cables and rebuilt every three years!
Iya-no Kazurabashi (祖谷のかずら橋)
Address: 162-2 Nishi-Iya Yamamura Zentoku, Miyoshi-shi, Tokushima 778-0102
Nearest station: Oboke Station (大歩危駅)
Nearest bus stop: Kazurabashi (かずら橋)
A few small food shops are conveniently located on the other side, and having my energy zapped from all that balancing, I cave to skewers of charcoal-roasted ayu (鮎 sweetfish), freshly caught from the river, and dekomawashi (でこまわし), a local specialty consisting of tofu, konnyaku and potato slathered in sweet miso sauce. More than enough fuel to power me on to Biwa Falls (琵琶の滝) just down the road.
Back at the hotel, more thrills await us. One of Hotel Kazaurabashi’s highlights is actually its open-air bath further up the mountain… accessible by a private gondola! Yes, you can enjoy onsen with full aerial views of the valley.
After a rejuvenating soak and kaiseki dinner, it is not yet time to turn in for the night. We board the hotel’s cute “bonnet bus” for a night tour of Kazurabashi Bridge. Of course, crossing is not allowed, but the illuminations do elevate the air of mystery.
Hotel Kazurabashi (新祖谷温泉 ホテルかずら橋)
Address: 33-1 Nishi-Iya Yamamura Zentoku, Miyoshi-shi, Tokushima 778-0102
Nearest station: Oboke Station (大歩危駅)
Nearest Bus Stop: Hotel Kazurabashi-Mae (ホテルかずら橋前)
Day 2: Ochiai, Higashi Iya
The next day, it’s time to dive deeper into the wilderness as we board the bus for Higashi Iya and our abode for the next two nights: a thatched-roof farmhouse in the mountainside village of Ochiai (落合).
Since we opted for delivery of locally-prepared bento meals for only the first night, I had intended to purchase some local ingredients to cook the second night. However, there was only a tiny shop at the foot of the mountain (nope, still no konbini), and I had to wake a sleepy grandpa to pay for whatever little was on the rack. A word of advice: if you plan to cook, buy your ingredients before getting to Ochiai.
When it is finally time for check-in, the staff of Tougenkyo-Iya (桃源郷祖谷), a cluster of eight vacated farmhouses in Ochiai repurposed as lodgings, drive us up the mountainside to reach our chosen abode, Souten (蒼天).
It is truly a nature-lover’s dream. From the balcony, views of the misty valley stretch endlessly in the day, and a sea of stars sparkle above at night. And don’t be mistaken by the primitive idea of a farmhouse: the modern and sleek refurbishments assure a comfy stay. There are even floor-to-ceiling windows so you can enjoy the full view indoors.
Dinner was way beyond my imagination as well: dishes upon dishes freshly prepared by locals, some encased in lacquerware and others hidden in the drawers of a cute wooden box. Never will I think of bento in the same way again.
Tougenkyo-Iya (桃源郷祖谷)
Address: 403 Higashi-Iya Ochiai, Miyoshi-shi, Tokushima 778-0202
Nearest station: Oboke Station (大歩危駅)
Nearest bus stop: Ochiai (落合)
Day 3: Oku-Iya Kazurabashi
While the farmhouse stay is enough reason to venture deeper into Iya Valley, the Oku-Iya Niju Kazurabashi (奥祖谷二重かずら橋), the other two remaining vine bridges found side-by-side, should not be missed. Unlike the more touristy Iya-no Kazurabashi surrounded by shops, these are found within a park of sorts with forest trails.
The highlight for me was actually the Wild Monkey (野猿 yaen) Cart, right next to the smaller of the two bridges. More than a bridge, this really is a suspended wooden cart you sit in to pull yourself across. Iya Valley truly treats us to one novel experience after another!
Oku-Iya Niju Kazurabashi (奥祖谷二重かずら橋)
Address: 620 Higashi-Iya Sugeoi, Miyoshi-shi, Tokushima 778-0201
Nearest station: Oboke Station (大歩危駅)
Nearest bus stop: Niju Kazurabashi (二重かずら橋)
Healing in Iya Valley
After an exhausting day, including the 390m high climb back up to our hut, it was time to prepare dinner ourselves. Thankfully, although my ingredients were a little lacking, the kitchen tools were not.
With our hearts and tummies full, we enjoyed another round of star-gazing on the balcony and prepared ourselves for a reluctant departure of this hidden paradise.
Iya Valley, you were very iyashi (healing)!
Header image credit: Hui Min
