Nestled on the border of Nagano Prefecture and Toyama Prefecture, the Three Mountains of Hakuba (白馬三山 Hakuba Sanzan)—Mount Shirouma (白馬岳), Mount Shakushi (杓子岳), and Mount Hakuba-Yari (白馬鑓ヶ岳)—are iconic peaks in the Northern Japanese Alps, each offering unique challenges and breathtaking vistas.
Mount Shirouma, the highest of the three at 2,932m, is renowned for its stunning alpine scenery, and is a popular destination for both climbers and nature enthusiasts.
Long enchanted by Hakuba’s scenery, and after years of waiting for Japan to reopen from COVID-19, last summer I finally climbed Mount Shirouma―often called Mount Hakuba (Hakubadake) by Hakuba locals―and here’s how it went!
I didn’t want to ascend and descend by the same route, so I decided on a leisurely traverse route from Tsugaike to Sarukura, a journey that would take 3 days and 2 nights.
Day 1: Tsugaike Nature Park to Hakuba Oike
The adventure began with rides one the Tsugaike Gondola Lift “Eve” and the Tsugaike Ropeway, which transported me up to Tsugaike Nature Park (栂池自然園 Tsugaike Shinzen’en). As the gondola ascended, I felt the anticipation build, knowing that soon I would begin my long-awaited journey.
From Tsugaike Nature Park, I was immediately greeted by the lush greenery and the serene ambiance that the Japanese Alps are renowned for. The park is one of Japan’s highest marshlands, standing at an elevation of 1,900m above sea level.
The summer air was crisp and invigorating, and the trail from Tsugaike Nature Park to Hakuba Oike was a steady ascent, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. As I climbed higher, the path became more rugged, with the most difficult section being an almost vertical climb up rocks.
Finally, after close to an hour of climbing the rocks I reached the Hakuba-Norikura peak (白馬乗鞍岳) at 2,469m, and continued hiking on a path of large rocks towards Hakuba Oike (白馬大池). Each step brought a new vista, a fresh perspective on the grandeur of nature.
After an hour, I arrived at Hakuba Oike, a stunning high-altitude lake nestled among the peaks. The still waters mirrored the sky and the surrounding mountains, creating a scene of perfect tranquillity.
The bright red Hakuba Oike Sanso Mountain Hut (白馬大池山荘), where I would spend my first night, was perched on the edge of this picturesque lake. The hut was rustic but welcoming, with the comforting aroma of dinner wafting through the air as I approached.
That evening, I sat by the lake, watching the sun dip below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the water. The reflection of the mountains in the lake was a sight to behold, and I felt a deep sense of peace and accomplishment. The stars twinkled in the clear night sky, and I retired to the mountain hut, looking forward to the ridgeline scenery of the next day.
Day 2: Traversing mountain ridges from Hakuba Oike to Mount Shirouma
I had a restful sleep and woke up to the crisp mountain air, but it was unfortunately a cloudy day, so there was no sunrise to see. After a hearty breakfast, I packed my gear and set off towards Mount Shirouma. The trail from Hakuba Oike to Mount Shirouma traverses high mountain ridges and offers stunning panoramic views. The sense of isolation and the sheer scale of the landscape were both humbling and exhilarating.
As I climbed higher, the trail became steeper and rockier. The ridgeline offered little protection from the elements, and the wind whipped around me as I made my way towards the summit, but the panoramic views were unlike anything I had ever experienced.
Despite the worsening weather, the beauty of the landscape was a constant source of motivation. The jagged peaks of the surrounding mountains on all sides, the deep valleys below, and the endless sky created a scene of raw, untouched beauty. Unfortunately, it started raining, drizzling on and off before becoming a constant downpour.
Reaching the summit of Mount Shirouma in the pouring rain was an unforgettable experience. Standing at 2,932 meters, the highest peak in the Hakuba range, I was greeted by a complete whiteout, unable to see anything in the distance. After taking a quick photo with the summit marker, I quickly made a dash down to the Hakuba Sanso Mountain Hut (白馬山荘), which was about 10 minutes away.
By the time I reached the hut at 12:00, I was exhausted but exhilarated. Hakuba Sanso is perched on the mountainside, offering stunning views of the surrounding peaks and valleys on clear days, but sadly it was raining, and continued to rain non-stop until the next morning.
I spent the afternoon resting, squeezing my wet gear and trying to dry as much as I could. Did you know? Hakuba Sanso is the largest mountain hut in Japan, able to accommodate up to 800 people! I went on a weekday in mid-July so it wasn’t that crowded, but once the summer holidays start, it is fully booked almost every day.
Dinner, served at 17:00, was warm and tasty, and I made friends with a group of Taiwanese travellers who had come on a climbing trip around Japan. I had seen them the previous night at Hakuba Oike Sanso, and we had passed each other hiking on the way to this hut.
All about a decade or two older than me, they were mostly ordinary people, who (like me) weren’t particularly sporty or frequent hikers, but came because they wanted to enjoy views of the mountains. No one cared about climbing within the “standard climbing times”, we all just wanted to slowly take in the views and appreciate the beauty of nature.
Day 3: Descending via the Daisekkei Snow Field to the Sarukura Trailhead
The final day of my journey began with an early morning start, and I bid farewell to Hakuba Sanso at 5:00. After an afternoon and night of nonstop rain, the skies finally cleared to a gorgeous blue. However, there was a lot of water running down the trails, which made them slippery.
What makes the climb to Mount Shirouma is the Daisekkei snow field (大雪渓), a vast expanse of snow and ice that remains frozen even during summer. Most people climb up this section, but I was on a route that was climbing down. Deep crevasses can form in the ice, so hikers need to follow the path marked in red.
The descent to the Sarukura Trailhead via the Daisekkei snow field was both exhilarating and challenging, requiring careful navigation. Equipped with crampons I bought specially for this trip, I carefully made my way down the snow field, the crunch of snow underfoot and the crisp mountain air filling my senses. It was a unique sensation, the air instantly felt cooler as the snow and ice emitted a coolness that was very welcome in the summer heat.
The snow field was a surreal landscape, with its stark white expanse contrasting sharply with the rugged mountains. The descent was steep, and I had to be constantly vigilant, but the experience was incredibly rewarding. I stopped for a final break near Hakubajiri Mountain Hut (白馬尻山荘), which was closed due to undergoing renovations, took a quintessential photo with the “Welcome to Daisekkei” sign, and continued on the final stretch towards Sarukura.
Reaching the Sarukura trailhead marked the end of my 3-day adventure. The sense of accomplishment was immense, and I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experience. The journey had been physically demanding but spiritually enriching, offering a profound connection to the natural world and a sense of achievement that will stay with me forever.
To “summit” all up: Is Mount Shirouma worth the climb?
Reflecting on the journey, I realised that climbing Mount Shirouma was not just about reaching the summit. It was about the entire experience―the beauty of the landscape, the challenges of the trail, and the sense of camaraderie with fellow hikers. Each day brought new challenges and new rewards, and the journey was as much about the path as it was about the destination.
As I made my way back to civilisation, I carried with me the memories of the breathtaking views, the tranquil moments by the lake, the exhilaration of walking the mountains ridges, and the unique sensation of walking down Daisekkei. Climbing Mount Shirouma was a journey of discovery, not just of the natural world but of my own capabilities and resilience. It was an adventure that tested my limits and rewarded me with some of the most beautiful and awe-inspiring sights I have ever seen.
In the end, it was the journey itself that mattered the most―a journey that I will remember for a lifetime.
If you love climbing mountains in Japan just as much as I do, I write about my solo hikes to Mount Tsubakaro, Kamikochi, and even Mount Fuji! Be sure to read them here at JAPAN RAIL CLUB!
Header image credit: Carissa Loh
