Greetings, Japan Rail Pass fans! Welcome to Beyond the Brochure, a new series where we aim to bridge the gap between the concise information found on the various JR Pass flyers, to sharing essential tips to help you visit those recommended sites for real. For our first feature, we’re excited to share one of the most underrated regional rail passes of Japan’s smallest main island—the ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass.
So.. Where is Shikoku?
The island of Shikoku in the western part of Japan is close to Osaka and Hiroshima, where direct flights to and from Singapore are available. Literally translated as “Four Provinces” in English, Shikoku is made up of the four prefectures of Kagawa, Ehime, Tokushima, and Kochi. Excluding Okinawa, Shikoku is the smallest of all the main islands of Japan. Due to its isolated location, history, climate, and absence of volcanoes, Shikoku exudes a unique charm unlike the other populous cities of Japan. It’s interesting to note that as its natural terrain is rather mountainous and sparsely populated, there are fewer cities and trains in the region—so while it may be challenging to get around, having the tremendously versatile ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass will be the first step to an unforgettable journey.
The ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass is available in consecutive 3-day, 4-day, 5-day, and 7-day periods. For the recommended itinerary below, we will be using the 5-day ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass.
Day 1: Takamatsu—Shodoshima Island
We will begin the usage of our ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass from Takamatsu City, the capital of the Kagawa Prefecture. Besides some delicious Sanuki Udon and a beautiful landscape garden in Ritsurin Garden (栗林公園), a big highlight of Takamatsu would be the nearby island of Shodoshima, which is a perfect day trip easily accessible by ferry.
Shikoku is sometimes marketed as the Mediterranean of Japan, and Shodoshima truly encapsulates this feeling. It is the home of Japan’s first olive farm in Shodoshima Olive Park (小豆島オリーブ公園), which is also doubly famous as the backdrop of Miyazaki Hayao’s famous animated film, “Kiki’s Delivery Service“. Enjoy strolling through the olive groves, sample olive-related cuisine, and grab a few memorable pictures next to their iconic Greek windmill. Other highlights of Shodoshima include the breathtaking Kankakei Gorge (寒霞渓), the film set of popular Japanese movie “Twenty-Four Eyes” and one of the last traditional soya sauce breweries in existence.
You can use the ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass to take the Shodoshima Ferry to and from Shodoshima for free!
Day 2: Takamatsu—Matsuyama
Goodbye Takamatsu, hello Matsuyama City. On this route, we’ll get the chance to board the Anpanman Train on the JR Yosan Line. One of the most iconic animated characters in Japan, this train is a tribute to Anpanman creator, Takashi Yanase (嵩柳瀬), who was born in Kochi Prefecture. Three Anpanman trains run daily from Takamatsu Station and it takes roughly 2.5 hours to reach Matsuyama Station. Do remember to check the timetable for the Anpanman trains before your trip.
Day 3: Matsuyama
Matsuyama City is the largest population center in Shikoku, and is home to many historical sites with rich culture and deep tradition. The highlight of the city is Dogo Onsen (道後温泉), the oldest and most famous bathhouse in Japan. It is also our second Miyazaki Hayao reference in this trip, serving as one of the many inspirations for his animated film, “Spirited Away” (千と千尋の神隠し Sen to Chihiro no Kamikakushi). Few are aware that Dogo Onsen actually houses three separate bathhouses—Dogo Onsen Honkan, Asuka-no-Yu, and Tsubaki-no-Yu. While each bathhouse boasts its own unique style of architecture, only the Asuka-no-Yu building contains relaxation rooms aside from the baths for visitors to enjoy. Be sure to try the Dogo Onsen exclusive add-ons at these facilities, like the Imabari face towels and orange-flavoured soap!
Another iconic landmark of the city is Matsuyama Castle (松山城), a fantastic place to get an aerial view of Matsuyama and breathtaking ocean views. You can easily access the castle via a chairlift up Mount Katsuyama (勝山 Katsuyama) from the center of the city.
Optional Side Trip: Iyonada Monogatari
If you happen to be in Matsuyama on a Saturday, Sunday, or National Holiday, then you’re in luck, because you’ll be able to ride the exclusive Iyonada Monogatari (伊予灘ものがたり). This beautiful sightseeing train runs leisurely along the Iyonada coastline, allowing you to dine on gourmet bento specially prepared using the finest local ingredients while enjoying spectacular views of the Seto Inland Sea. The bento served onboard changes depending on the time of the day.
It’s important to note that to ride this train with your ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass, both a seat reservation and an additional green car ticket must be purchased in advance. You can do this while exchanging your Exchange Vouchers for the ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass at any JR Shikoku Ticket Reservation Office. We also recommend buying the Meal Voucher for your bento at the same time while you’re at the Ticket Reservation Office.
Day 4: Matsuyama—Kochi
From Matsuyama Station, take the Limited Express (Ltd. Exp.) “Shiokaze” to Tadotsu Station, and then transfer to either the Ltd. Exp. “Shimanto” or “Nanpu” to Kochi City. Each leg of the journey takes around 2 hours, so it is recommended that you take a lunch break at Tadotsu to break the tedium of a non-stop 4-hour trip to Kochi.
Some travellers have noted that Kochi feels like a more compact and traditional city compared to Matsuyama—and to really feel the charm of the city, take a visit to another of Japan’s famous original castles, Kochi Castle (高知城 Kōchi-jō). Take some time to try some of their local delicacies as well—Kochi is famous for its katsuo no tataki (鰹のタタキ), otherwise known as seared bonito fish.
Optional Trip: Mannaka Sennen Monogatari
Another side trip for rail travel enthusiasts to consider is the Mannaka Sennen Monogatari, Here’s an atmospheric sightseeing train designed to enhance your journey with delicious bento and jaw-dropping seasonal views. The Mannaka Sennen Monogatari is even more exclusive than the Iyonada Monogatari, as on top of weekend-and-holiday-only operations, only one round trip train runs from Tadotsu Station to Oboke Station per day.
Due to the difficulty of reserving seats on this train and including it into your itinerary, we recommend booking your tickets one month in advance, separately from your ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass. You can make reservations at their online website here.
Day 5: Oboke and Iya Valley
For our last major sight of the trip, we’ll be heading over to Iya Valley (祖谷渓 Iyakei) in Oboke. Take a 50-minute train from Kochi Station to Oboke Station, and then take the Shikoku Kotsu Bus to reach whichever landmark you’d like to see. A wonderful place to enjoy hiking and nature activities, Iya Valley is among the most remote and rugged inhabited regions of Japan, complete with several gorges, rope vine bridges, and thatched roof villages to explore. For a comprehensive guide as to what makes this place special, we recommend visiting IyaTime.
Once you are done for the day, take a bus over to Awa-Ikeda Station, and from here you can choose to end your trip by taking a train either to Tokushima, where you can exit to Kansai via Awaji Island, or by taking a train back to Matsuyama or Okayama.
How much do you save?
Total cost: ¥25,460
– ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass (5 days) price: ¥17,000
= Savings: ¥8,460!
Based on the non-exhaustive trips from the above sample itinerary alone, you would save at least ¥8,460—which is not a small sum! If you’d like more leeway in your trip to further enjoy and appreciate Shikoku, you could consider topping up ¥3,000 to get a 7-day pass instead. The ALL SHIKOKU Rail Pass is available for purchase online and at selected overseas travel counters.
Of course, these are only a few of the many places of interests available on the island. Shikoku is a region brimming with possibilities just waiting to be rediscovered by foreign tourists. Take some notes, research more at Shikoku Railway Trip, and start planning for your next trip to Shikoku today!
