Venturing into Tokyo’s hidden gems, I’ve explored the quaint districts of Chofu and Shibamata. This time, I’m drawn to Monzen Nakacho (門前仲町), a charming shitamachi (下町 downtown area) in eastern Tokyo along the Sumida River. Despite my short half-day excursion, Monzen Nakacho boasts a rich history as a temple town, offering a tranquil escape with its numerous shrines and traditional shops.
Easily accessible via the Toei Ōedo Line (都営地下鉄大江戸線) and the Tokyo Metro Tōzai Line (東京メトロ東西線), it blends cultural charm with urban convenience in Tokyo’s lesser-known eastern neighbourhoods.
Arriving at Monzen Nakacho Station (門前仲町駅) just before noon, I immediately spotted a helpful directory at the exit, guiding me to my destinations for the day: Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine and Fukagawa Fudodo Temple. With these historic landmarks as my focus, I set out to explore the cultural richness of this charming Tokyo neighbourhood, known for its serene shrines and traditional ambience.
Fukagawa Fudodo Temple
Following the bright red torii gates led me effortlessly to Fukagawa Fudōdō Temple (深川不動堂) in Koto City (江東区), located among quaint shops and traditional establishments. Established in 1703, this temple stands out for its blend of ancient rituals and modern relevance. It is renowned for its Goma fire ritual (護摩祈祷), symbolising purification and spiritual transformation. However, what sets it apart from other shrines and temples is how it’s a neighbourhood temple–nestled in the concrete jungle with lots of people walking through on their way to work–offering a unique urban experience amidst Tokyo’s bustling atmosphere.
As I wandered through the temple grounds, I stumbled upon the Fukagawa Ryujin (深川龍神 Three Dragon Shrine) just before the main hall. The three dragons are believed to be the god of water and have been worshipped by many people in Japan since ancient times. It is said that if you float a “Wish Card ” in a bowl of water and pray, the card will dissolve in the water and your wish will be delivered to the Dragon God.
Intrigued, I purchased a special paper for ¥100 and wrote my wish, hoping it would dissolve completely in the fountain. This serene ritual added a mystical touch to my visit. After writing my wish at the Three Dragon Shrine, a temple staff informed me about the upcoming Goma fire ritual, a highly anticipated event later that day, and suggested exploring lunch options before the lunch crowd appeared.
Starting to feel a little hungry, I set out to try Fukagawa-meshi (深川めし), a local delicacy renowned for its flavorful blend of seafood and rice.
Fukagawa Fudōdō Temple (深川不動堂)
Address: 1-17-13 Tomioka, Koto City, Tokyo 135-0047
Access: 5-minute walk from Monzen Nakacho Station
Fukugawa Meshi
Right around the corner from the temple, I found the perfect place that offered Fukagawa-meshi. Quickly taking my seat and placing my order, the food was served quickly and it was mouthwatering!
Fukagawa Meshi derives its name from Fukagawa, where I was at, and meshi, which refers to cooked rice or a meal in Japanese. A staple of Tokyo’s culinary heritage, it’s renowned as one of Japan’s five significant rice dishes. Originally a nourishing meal for local fishermen during the Edo Period when Fukagawa was a prosperous fishing town where many earned a living catching fishes and short-neck clams (asari), it evolved into two popular styles: bukkake (ぶっかけ), with clams sprinkled over rice, and takikomi (炊き込み), where clams are cooked with rice.
Tomioka Hachiman-gu Shrine
After savouring a delicious lunch, I found myself with ample time before the Goma ritual, so I headed to Tomioka Hachiman-gu Shrine (富岡八幡宮) which was just a short walk away. Founded in 1627, Tomioka Hachiman-gu is Tokyo’s largest Hachiman shrine, originally established with the worship of Hachiman (八幡神), the deity of martial arts and war.
Historically facing the sea on Eitai-jima Island (永代島), the successive landfilling has transformed it into a landlocked shrine. Renowned as the merchant shrine of the area since 1651, it holds a significant place in sumo history, hosting Japan’s first sumo tournaments in the late 17th century. The tranquil temple grounds and neighbouring small park are surrounded by monuments dedicated to sumo, underscoring its deep-rooted connection to this ancient sport.
Tomioka Hachiman-gu Shrine (富岡八幡宮)
Address: 1-20-3 Tomioka, Koto City, Tokyo 135-0047
Access: 3-minute walk from Monzen Nakacho Station
Goma Fire Ritual
As the time for the Goma Fire Ritual at Fukagawa Fudodo Temple drew near, I hurried to secure a spot on the temple grounds in the main hall. Unfortunately, no photography and videography were allowed, but let me tell you, the atmosphere was surreal, with a bustling crowd eagerly awaiting the ceremony.
The ritual itself involved the burning of wooden sticks in a sacred fire to dispel negativity and bring about purification. The rhythmic chants of the monks and the flickering flames created a mesmerising spectacle. I highly recommend attending this free event if you’re in the area; it offers a truly unique and spiritual experience worth witnessing firsthand.
Street food of Monzen-Nakacho: Taiyaki & senbei!
After the ritual concluded, I had a look at the religious displays in the main hall which were available for guests. It was peaceful and I really enjoyed the quiet time I had taking everything in.
Having had my spiritual fill, I ventured to nearby shops for a quick snack. I opted for a houjicha taiyaki (ほうじ茶たい焼き), fragrant with the aroma of roasted tea, which I savoured while exploring. Among the other shops, I also discovered ones boasting Japan’s hardest rice crackers (日本一堅いせんべい). With a name like that, I just had to get one—and what do you know, it was incredibly tough! I even needed to break it into small pieces before enjoying it slowly.
As my brief excursion to Monzen Nakacho drew to a close, my final destination awaited: Tokyo SkyTree.
Tokyo SkyTree: The icon of East Tokyo
From Monzen Nakacho, I hopped on a local bus that swiftly took me to Tokyo SkyTree (東京スカイツリー) in just 20 minutes, passing through Ryogoku (両国) along the way, known for its sumo wrestling and savoury chanko nabe (ちゃんこ鍋). It’s worth adding Ryogoku to your travel plans if time allows!
Upon arrival, a short stroll led me to Tokyo Skytree, where clear skies provided a stunning backdrop. The picturesque scene was a stroke of luck, making my visit to the iconic landmark even more memorable.
With that, my half-day trip to Monzen Nakacho has come to an end. While I’ve seen its main attractions, there’s much more to explore here, leaving me eager to return soon. Monzen Nakacho’s accessibility and diverse offerings make it a must-visit destination in Tokyo and I highly recommend experiencing all it has to offer on your next trip to the city.
Header image credit: Julia Yee
