Have you heard of the morning drama series “Oshin”?
The story follows the life of a young girl named Oshin, born into poverty in rural Yamagata(山形県) during the Meiji Era (1868–1912), and her journey through hardship, perseverance, and resilience as she grows into adulthood.
This drama, which ran from 1983 to 1984, is not only a household name in Japan but has also been broadcast in about 70 countries around the world. It’s no exaggeration to say that it is “the world’s most successful Japanese TV drama”. In this article, we’ll be visiting the Shonai(庄内) and Mogami(最上) districts of Yamagata Prefecture, where the series is set, and see Oshin’s hometown.
Listen to the voice of the boatman on the most therapeutic River Cruise!
Our journey starts at the Mogami River(最上川).
This river is the place in the story where Oshin stood on a raft and shouted “Ka～jung, dor～jung (mummy～, daddy～)” when she was sent to work—one of the most iconic scenes in the drama.
The Mogami River is breathtakingly beautiful in all seasons, but winter is actually the hidden gem of the season! In the winter, the wooden boats are replaced by kotatsu (Japanese heated table) boats, so you can enjoy the snowy scenery on both sides of the river from a warm table.
The boatmen will not only introduce the scenery along the way, but will also sing traditional boat songs. | © Rikuwa Tozai Line Chiiki ProjectThe whole journey is about 12 kilometres, and it takes about 1 hour to go down the river by boat. Each of the boatmen has a different style, age, and gender, and it’s all a matter of luck whose boat you get on. No matter which boat you get on, it’s sure to be an unforgettable experience!
This is not just a boat ride—there are also souvenir shops, restaurants, and you can even try your hand at making soba noodles! In addition, you can bring your own food and drink on board the boat, but we recommend that you make a reservation in advance for the “Mogamigawa Oshin Bento“, so that you can enjoy the scenery of the riverbank while eating a bento full of local specialities inspired by Oshin!
Mogami River Boat Cruise
Address: 86-1 Furukuchi, Tozawa, Mogami-shi, Yamagata 999-6401
Access: To board the boat, take the JR Rikuusai Bus Line (ＪＲ陸羽西線) from Shinjo Station(新庄駅) to Furukuchi Station(古口駅), and walk for about 10 minutes to the boat guard station.
Immerse yourself in the film sets of the drama
Japanese period dramas often feature scenes from the early days of lodging towns, fishing villages, farming villages, or small mountain villages, and most of these scenes were actually shot on outdoor film sets.
STUDIO SEDIC’s Shonai location shooting site is the largest of them all. The entire set is about 2 kilometres long and occupies the largest area in Japan! If you’re too tired to walk around the set, you can even take a tour bus to see the buildings around the site.
One of the most popular filming locations in Studio Sedic Shonai is the Shukaba-cho(Post Town) area. There is a 200-metre row of traditional Japanese-style inns, restaurants, and other buildings, and walking through is like stepping back in time to the Edo period.
The Village Area is an idyllic landscape full of untouched Japanese scenery, with a relaxing atmosphere of the countryside. There is also a reconstruction of Oshin’s old house, so don’t miss it if you’re there!
A variety of fun and experiential activities on the set are also popular with visitors! You can rent costumes and become a ninja with your family, pick up a samurai sword and challenge yourself to a newspaper chopping contest to get a feel of what it’s like to be a samurai. You can also climb up to the Taiko Tower and play the big drums—it’s super fun!
STUDIO SEDIC Shonai Shooting Site
Address: 102 Kawashiro Higashimasukawayama, Haguro-cho, Tsuruoka-shi, Yamagata 997-0131
Japan, 〒997-0131 Yamagata, Tsuruoka, 羽黒町 川代東増川山 Haguro Town, Kawashiro Higashimasukawayama１０２
Access: Take a 30-minute taxi from JR Tsuruoka Station(鶴岡駅)
Take a walk in Ginzan Hot Spring and feel the romantic atmosphere of the retro hot spring street.
Ginzan Onsen(銀山温泉), one of the most famous onsen in Japan, also appeared in a scene in Oshin. Along both sides of the river, multi-storey wooden inns built more than 100 years ago line the streets, giving the whole street a retro feel. As the sun sets, gas lamps are lit one by one, and you can soak your feet in 100% natural hot springs to heal your body, mind, and spirit.
The walls of each ryokan are decorated with a colourful decorations and paper carved into beautiful, oblong shapes. It is a great place to admire!
The most fantastic time to visit Ginzan Hot Spring is definitely in winter. If you live in a country that doesn’t experience the cold seasons, you can fulfil your desires of enjoying the snow and soaking in the hot springs in a two-for-one visit!
Ginzan Onsen (銀山温泉)
Address: Ginzan Onsen, Obanazawa-shi, Yamagata
Access: 35-minute bus ride from JR Ōishida Station (JR大石田駅).
Stroll around the bustling morning market and warm up at the Hijori Hot Springs
The last place that I would like to introduce is one of the hot springs that I highly recommend – Hijori Onsen (肘折温泉), which has a history of more than 1,200 years! The whole town is filled with a nostalgic charm, and all 19 hot spring inns here are 100% fed from the local hot springs, which is truly a blessing for hot spring lovers!
This area has been known as a place where people would stay for a long time to cure illnesses or improve their health through hot springs, and the best way to experience this history is the traditional morning market that starts at 5:30 am every morning! The market is open every day from April to early December, and you can buy fresh mountain vegetables at great prices, and chat with the local aunties who set up stalls at the market!
Worried that you don’t understand the language? Don’t worry, it’s just a matter of gestures!
There’s a Japanese proverb that says, “Wake up early and get up in the morning!”, which is similar to the Chinese saying, “The early bird gets the worm.” If you take a walk around the city, you can really understand the meaning of this saying.
Hijiori Onsen (肘折温泉)
Address: Minamiyama, Okura, Mogami-shi, Yamagata 996-0301
Access: 54-minute bus ride from JR Shinjō Station (JR新庄駅).
The Okura area, where the Hijiori Onsen is located, also has a variety of interesting experiences, such as colouring kokeshi dolls and harvesting wasabi, which is a great way to leave a special memory of your trip. In addition, there are many snow activities that can only be found in the Japan, so I really recommend that you come and experience the winter fun!
We hope this Oshin-inspired journey leaves you with lasting memories. The charming Shonai and Mogami regions are full of timeless beauty just waiting to be discovered!
The information provided in this article is as of the time of the interview. Prices of products, services, timetables, shop information, etc. mentioned in this article are subject to change. Please be sure to check the official websites.
