홋카이도 (北海道) is the northernmost prefecture in Japan, and millions of people from all over the world visit it throughout the year. The most popular regions among visitors include central and southern Hokkaido, which include Sapporo (札幌市), the capital city of Hokkaido; and Hakodate, located at the south of the region.
©Yasufumi Nishi, Hokkaido Tourism Organization, Akita Inu Tourism, JNTO / Aomori Prefecture
However, visitors don’t need to visit only Hokkaido. The region neighbours with the Tohoku Region (東北地方) to the south, separated only by the Tsugaru Strait (津軽海峡 Tsugaru Kaikyō). With the latest Hokkaido Shinkansen in full service, it takes barely an hour to cross this strait.
Better yet, the JR Tohoku-South Hokkaido Rail Pass enable holders to explore the southern part of Hokkaido as well as Tohoku. With the pass, you can take the JR lines as many times as you like for 5 days of your choosing within 14 days from the issue date and explore the two regions to your heart’s content.
In this article, I would like to introduce to you a 7-day travel plan for those interested in exploring the southern part of Hokkaido as well as the northern part of Tohoku. This will be beneficial for light travellers who want to discover the best of both worlds but have time constraints, and a guide on how to fully utilise the JR Tohoku-South Hokkaido Rail Pass’s flexible 5-day validity period.
① Start in Sapporo
We start with a flight to New Chitose Airport (新千歳国際空港), Hokkaido’s largest airport and one of the busiest in Japan. The airport is the most common gateway for foreign visitors to enter the prefecture, and it’s directly connected to the capital city Sapporo by JR Rapid Airport Express.
As the largest city in Hokkaido, Sapporo has something for every kind of visitor: food, shopping, events, festivals, and even some beautiful sceneries. For a start, shoppers can explore JR Sapporo Station (JR札幌駅), which is a hub that is integrated with the department store Daimaru; ESTA, a shopping complex; and JR Tower Nikko Sapporo, a 5-star hotel with an observation deck, and is also the tallest building in Hokkaido.
For night owls, food crawlers and those wanting to explore the nightlife, the brightly lit and lively Susukino (すすきの) remains the default choice. Visitors can also reach Susukino from JR Sapporo Station either on foot (10–15-minute walk) on street level or the underground mall Aurora Town, or by the local subway.
② Appreciate culture and history in Shiraoi
Next stop, you can head southward to Shiraoi (白老町), a quiet and rustic town that serves as an epicentre for the historical culture of Ainu, an ethnic group that is native to Hokkaido and some parts of Russia. Ainu culture is a significant heritage to the region, and 2020 is also an important year as it marks the opening of the UPOPOY National Ainu Museum and Park, a national centre for reviving and developing the culture.
UPOPOY National Ainu Park and Museum. (Video credit: ウポポイ民族共生象徴空間)
UPOPOY National Ainu Museum and Park (ウポポイ国立アイヌ民族博物館)
Address: 2-3 Wakakusa-cho, Shiraoi, Shiraoi District, Hokkaido 059-0902
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Shiraoi Station (JR白老駅)
③ Taking it easy at Lake Toya
When it comes to hot springs in Hokkaido, Lake Toya (洞爺湖) would spring to mind for many people. The town has become famous as the go-to for hot spring resorts in Hokkaido for its numerous hot spring inns and picturesque lake nearby, which is also a volcanic caldera lake. Visitors would almost always come here for the hot spring inns, but outdoor lovers can also opt for the cruise ride. Better yet, I highly recommend visiting Nakajima (中島), the island in the middle of the lake, where visitors can witness amazing flora and fauna, including Ezo deers (エゾシカ).
④ Discovering Yakumo
Usually, visitors heading south after Lake Toya would naturally go to Hakodate for their next stop. However, by doing so they forgo the small town of Yakumo (八雲町). An unassuming and sparsely populated town, Yakumo is a hidden gem for anyone interested in exploring lesser-known places. One spot to check out is Funkawan Bay Panorama Park, which offers an unexpectedly panoramic view of Uchiura Bay (内浦湾).
⑤ Heading down to Hakodate
Hakodate (函館市) is a port city located in southern Hokkaido and is the third largest city in the prefecture. It is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Hokkaido, and visitors drop by this picturesque city time and time again throughout the year as it offers something for everyone: food, beautiful scenery, and even some history and culture.
Best of all, most of Hakodate’s tourist attractions are within walking distance from JR Hakodate Station (JR函館駅), located in the city centre. Hakodate Morning Market (函館朝市) would immediately spring to mind for most visitors as the ideal place for breakfast, with stalls opening early in the morning selling plentiful fresh (and affordable) seafood, fruits and produce.
If Hakodate Morning Market is a must-visit for the morning segment, then Mount Hakodate (函館山) is the must-visit for the evening segment. Visitors would flock to the top of the mountain after sundown to capture the priceless shot of the city skyline gleaming below, and one’s trip wouldn’t be complete without a trip here. But be warned: it can get crowded towards evening, so do plan your travel schedule carefully.
The other must-visit in Hakodate is Goryokaku (五稜郭), an iconic star-shaped fort that was declared a Special Heritage Site in the city. The surrounding park is also one of the best places for cherry blossom viewing in spring, when the entire complex will be carpeted by cherry blossom petals. To have a full view of the fort from the sky, visitors must go up to the Goryokaku Tower.
Bridging Hokkaido and Tohoku: The Seikan Tunnel
Hokkaido and Tohoku are separated by the Tsugaru Strait, and in the past people had to take a boat to travel from one region to another. Then in March 1988, the Seikan Tunnel (青函トンネル) was completed, an engineering marvel that enabled trains to travel between Hakodate in Hokkaido, and Aomori in Tohoku. What’s amazing about the tunnel is that it runs under the Tsugaru Strait seabed, It’s also the world’s longest tunnel with an undersea segment, and also the world’s second-deepest tunnel. In 2016, things improved further with the introduction of Shinkansen services, further reducing travel time between two regions to merely one hour.
⑥ Onward to Aomori
The next part of the journey finally brings us to the Tohoku Region, starting with Aomori (青森県 Aomori-ken). As the northernmost prefecture of the region, it is the common gateway for visitors accessing Hokkaido by train and is undoubtedly one of the highlights of the region. If there’s one place visitors should make time to visit, it would be Nebuta Museum WA-RASSE (ねぶたの家ワ・ラッセ). Nebuta Museum WA-RASSE is a museum that is specially dedicated to Nebuta Festival, Aomori’s famous yearly summer festival that is held on the first week of every August. The museum celebrates the 300-year history and culture of the festival, with galleries showcasing photos of past festivals and halls featuring actual floats that were previously used.
Nebuta Museum WA-RASSE (ねぶたの家ワ・ラッセ)
Address: 1-1-1 Yasukata, Bunka Kankou Kouryuu Shisetsu, Aomori City, Aomori Prefecture 030-0803
Access: 1-minute walk from JR Aomori Station (JR青森駅)
Another attraction that’s only a stone’s throw away from JR Aomori Station and Nebuta Warasse is the Ferryboat Memorial Ship Hakkoda-Maru (八甲田丸). The ship was formerly used to ferry people between Aomori and Hakodate across the Tsugaru Strait before the *Seikan Tunnel was completed. Since the tunnel’s completion, the ferry was decommissioned and was turned into a museum. Visitors can have a close-up look at the inner workings of the ship, and there’s even a ‘Seikan World’, where they will travel back in time and experience a recreation of the Aomori morning market in the 1950s.
Ferryboat Memorial Ship “Hakkoda-maru” (八甲田丸)
Address: 1-112-15 Yanagikawa, Aomori City, Aomori Prefecture 038-0012
Acces: 5-minute walk from JR Aomori Station (JR青森駅)
And of course, when it comes to Aomori, eat apples! The prefecture is famous for being the no. 1 producer of apples in the country, so much so that it’s part of their identity. Apple lovers can check out A-FACTORY, a duty-free department store that specialises in local Aomori produce (including apples, of course). The highlight of A-FACTORY is the Apple Cidre, where you can check out apple cider being manufactured right before your eyes.
A-FACTORY
Address: 1-4-2 Yanagikawa, Aomori City, Aomori Prefecture 038-0012
Access: 1-minute walk from JR Aomori Station (JR青森駅)
⑦ Exploring grandeur of Hirosaki
When it comes to Aomori, a city that visitors must explore is Hirosaki (弘前市 Hirosaki-shi), where the majestic Hirosaki Castle (弘前城 Hirosaki-jō) is located. An imposing piece of architecture from the 17th century, this castle is visited by people from all over the world, especially during cherry blossom season in spring and is even considered one of the best cherry blossom viewing sites in Japan.
Also, if you missed out on A-FACTORY in Aomori, you can check out Hirosaki Apple Park (弘前市りんご公園) in Hirosaki. It is home to over 1,300 apple trees with 65 different varieties, and visitors can even take part in the harvesting process. The highlight of the park is Ringo no Ie (Apple House), where over 1,250 products from apple products to apple-themed souvenirs are sold.
Hirosaki Apple Park (弘前市りんご公園)
Address: 125 Terasawa, Shimizutomita, Hirosaki City, Aomori Prefecture 036-8262
Access: 20-minute bus ride from JR Hirosaki Station (弘前駅)
⑧ Last stop in Ōdate
The last stop in our travel schedule is Ōdate, which may surprise some readers. Why Ōdate? Well, that’s because the quiet city is the place of origin for the widely loved Akita dogs (秋田犬 Akita-inu), a breed that is native to the region. The dogs are a beloved breed known for being independent yet friendly towards humans, and the most famous Akita dog was Hachiko (ハチ公), who waited for his master Ueno Hidesaburō (上野 英三郎) for nine years even though he died much earlier.
Visitors (especially dog lovers) can pay a visit to the Akita Dog Visitor Centre, where they get to learn more about the origins of the breed, and even get Akita Dog-related souvenirs. There’s a surprise waiting for visitors too: a statue of Hachiko awaits at the entrance, just like the famous one outside JR Shibuya Station in Tokyo.
Akita Dog Visitor Center (秋田犬の里)
Address: 1-13-1 Onari-cho, Ōdate, Akita Prefecture 017-0044
Access: 3-minute walk from JR Ōdate Station (JR大館駅)
How to use the JR Tohoku-South Hokkaido Rail Pass
The JR Tohoku-South Hokkaido Rail Pass enables holders to explore southern Hokkaido and the Tohoku Region by train, with unlimited train rides on JR lines in the regions for 6 consecutive days. Passholders stand to save money on train fares if they plan their schedules carefully.
Here’s a guide on how to make full use of the pass, using the 7-day travel plan above:
DAY 1-2
- New Chitose Airport → JR Rapid Airport express (approx. 37 minutes, ¥1,680) → ① JR Sapporo Station (spend 2 nights and stay in Sapporo)
DAY 3
- ① JR Sapporo Station → Limited Express Super Hokuto / Suzuran (approx. 60 minutes, ¥3,780) → ② JR Shiraoi Station
- ② JR Shiraoi Station → Limited Express Super Hokuto (approx. 50 minutes, ¥3,360) → ③ JR Toya Station (spend 1 night and stay in Lake Toya)
Use the second day of the pass for the train rides from Sapporo to Shiraoi, and Shiraoi to Lake Toya.
DAY 4-5
- ③ JR Toya Station → Limited Express Super Hokuto (approx. 50 minutes, ¥3,360) → ④ JR Yakumo Station
- ④ JR Yakumo Station → Limited Express Super Hokuto (approx. 65 minutes, ¥3,570) → ⑤ JR Hakodate Station (spend 2 nights and stay in Hakodate)
Use the third day of the pass for the train rides from Lake Toya to Yakumo, and Yakumo to Hakodate.
DAY 6
- ⑤ JR Hakodate Station → Hakodate Liner / Hokkaido Shinkansen / JR Ou Line (approx. 120 minutes, ¥8,360) → ⑥ JR Aomori Station
- ⑥ JR Aomori Station → JR Ou Line (approx. 45 minutes, ¥680) → ⑦ JR Hirosaki Station
- ⑦ JR Hirosaki Station → Limited Express Tsugaru (approx. 36 minutes, ¥2,020) → ⑧ JR Ōdate Station (spend 1 night and stay in Aomori)
Use the fourth day of the pass for the train rides from Hakodate to Aomori (via Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto and Shin-Aomori).
DAY 7
- JR Aomori Station → JR Ou Line / Hokkaido Shinkansen / Limited Express Super Hokuto / Airport Line (approx. 300 minutes, ¥14,450) → New Chitose Airport
Use the fifth (final) day of the pass for the train rides from Aomori to New Chitose Airport (via Shin-Aomori, Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto and Minami-Chitose).
With the JR Tohoku-South Hokkaido Rail Pass, you can save a lot of money on train fares. So why not explore southern Hokkaido and Tohoku Region with the pass; not only will you get the best of both worlds, but you also save a lot more money and get to ride as many trains as you like!
JR Tohoku-South Hokkaido Rail Pass
The JR Tohoku-South Hokkaido Rail Pass is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East and JR Hokkaido lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area. It’s a 6-day pass that costs ¥30,000, making it a considerable option for rail travellers. Pass holders can also reserve seats online for up to a month in advance for free on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
Header image credit: Hokkaido Railway Company
