When it comes to reasons people want to travel to Japan, one of them is almost always hot springs (温泉 onsen). Hot springs can be enjoyed at any time throughout the year, but for most people, the experience is particularly heavenly and unforgettable during winter. Many have fond memories of dipping their bodies into hot spring water while feeling the chilly winter breeze on their faces.
Most hot springs are inside inns (旅館 ryokan), where guests will stay for a night or two to enjoy an authentically traditional Japanese lodging experience. Hot springs and inns can be found anywhere in Japan, but some of the best ones are in the northeastern region of Tohoku ().
The Tohoku Region has some of the best hot spring resorts in Japan for good reasons. Geographically, it has many mountainous regions and volcanic activities which are beneficial and conducive for hot springs. Plus, it enjoys the best of seasons: cherry blossoms bloom profusely during spring, and snowfall is heavy here compared to most other regions.
And thankfully, transportation in the Tohoku Region is well-connected thanks to its Shinkansen network courtesy JR East. It is even feasible to do hot spring hopping: going from one hot spring to another in a single journey, thanks to the convenience of the train system!
For this article, I will showcase some of the best hot springs in Tohoku that visitors can enjoy privately.
Takayu Onsen (高湯温泉) in Fukushima Prefecture
The prefecture of Fukushima (福島県) lies on the southern side of Tohoku. While it may not be one of the most popular prefectures for tourism, it is slowly seeing more tourists visiting as they discover hidden gems here, including amazing hot springs.
Hidden in the mountains of Azuma (吾妻山) is Takayu Onsen (高由温泉), a hidden gem of a hot spring resort that boasts some of the best hot springs in Japan. While it may not be as popular as those in other prefectures, Takayu Onsen has garnered many titles and critical acclaim in recent years, such as “Minister of the Environment” and the number one spot for “Health Advancement” a few years ago by the Hot Spring General Election (温泉総選挙).
Takayu Onsen’s secret is in the hot spring water. Sourced directly from the nearby mountains, the water at Takayu Onsen is strongly acidic and rich in hydrogen sulphide. Because of its content, the water is slightly milky with a bluish hue, and has a distinctive sulphuric smell synonymous with natural hot springs. The water is transported straight from the source―which is rare even by Japanese hot spring standards―gushing at a rate of up to 2,956 litres per minute, with temperatures ranging between 42.8°C to 50.5°C, an optimal range for dipping.
Another secret to Takayu Onsen’s fame is its immersive experience for guests. First-time visitors are in for a surprise: they will not find any diners, pubs or souvenir shops at Takayu Onsen. That is because the entire area is meant to be a retreat, a place that provides escapism from the hectic lifestyle of the modern age by enveloping its guests in serene natural greenery and warm local hospitality.
Adachiya (安達屋)
Takayu Onsen has several inns, all using the area’s natural hot spring water. One of them is Adachiya, a rustic and quaint hot spring inn that exudes old-world charm, and is close to the Takayu Onsen epicentre.
Adachiya has more than five different hot spring baths, each with its own unique identity. There is the Taiki-no-Yu (大気の湯), the large-scale open-air bath; Yakushi-no-Yu (薬師), which supposedly has health benefits for people who heal from certain illnesses (it is also a private bath!); and for indoors, there is Fudo-no-Yu (不動の湯) for men, and Hime-no-Yu (姫の湯) for women. Of course not to forget, there is also an exclusive indoor private bath named Hime-Sayuri (ひめさ湯り).
Adachiya also pays meticulous attention to the food for their guests. It uses seasonal local ingredients such as rockfish, locally bred chicken and locally harvested mushrooms, and meals are prepared around a hearth using a charcoal fire, a rare culinary treat for guests.
Shinobu Onsen Nonbirikan (信夫温泉のんびり館)
Another hot spring inn that visitors can consider is Shinobu Onsen Nonbirikan, a charming and secluded establishment that also uses Takayu Onsen’s hot spring water. This establishment has gathered rave reviews over the years, being in the top ten rankings for best hot spring inns according to Rakuten.
Guests of Nonbirikan will get to enjoy the inn’s many exclusive baths, each with its own theme. Like Adachiya, Nonbirikan’s specialty is its hot spring water: the sulphurous water is said to soften keratin and emulsifies sebum. It also has antibacterial and detoxifying properties, thus helpful for people suffering from acne and atopy. The establishment has an outdoor and indoor bath for men and women, and even rooms (Japanese / Western) with private hot spring baths.
Of course, Nonbirikan pays special attention to meal preparation for their guests. It uses exquisite ingredients such as rainbow trout, char, puffer fish, konjac and buckwheat flour for their meals. The meals are designed according to the season by the head chef, who has worked in many high-end hotels before coming here.
Takayu Onsen Public Bath Attakayu (あったか湯)
For those seeking to experience a hot spring bath without accommodation, visitors can opt for a public communal hot spring. Takayu Onsen has the answer to that in the form of Attakayu, which is highly popular among hot spring enthusiasts.
As a communal hot spring bath, Attakayu is open to the public where guests can simply pay a fee to use the facilities. The baths are segregated according to men and women, and each has a unique theme: the men’s section is themed after wood (木 ki) whereas the women’s is rock (岩 iwa).
Takayu Onsen (高湯温泉)
Address: 21 Takayu, Machiniwasaka, Fukushima-shi, Fukushima 960-2261
Access: 30 -minute bus ride from JR Fukushima Station
BONUS: Trekking in Takayu Onsen
Takayu Onsen is also popular for trekking during non-winter seasons. First-time visitors will be enthralled by the spectacular view of the area surrounding the resort, the main spectacle being the grand Bandai-Azuma Skyline (磐梯吾妻スカイライン), which is also known as “the road that runs across the sky” and is considered as one of the top 100 roads in Japan.
First-timer visitors keen on exploring the Bandai-Azuma Skyline on foot should visit the Fudosawa Bridge (不動沢橋), also known as Tenkū-no-Kakehashi (天空の架け橋 Suspension Bridge in the Air), that spans over the Tsubakuro Valley (つばくろ谷). Visitors will feel like they are walking high up in the air when crossing this bridge, while gazing at the spectacular Eight Views of Azuma (吾妻八景 Azuma-Hakkei) below and around them.
Closing
Fukushima is one of the underrated prefectures in Japan when it comes to travel destinations, more so when it has Takayu Onsen, undoubtedly one of the best hot spring resorts in the country. As dipping in hot springs is one of the primary reasons that visitors from all over the world flock to Japan time and time again, it is only natural that more people should be visiting Takayu Onsen. Plus, the resort has plenty of options for private hot spring baths which is ideal for Muslim families, or simply visitor groups who want some privacy.
JR EAST 패스 (도호쿠 지역)
The JR EAST 패스 (도호쿠 지역) is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area for 5 consecutive days. It’s only ¥30,000, making it a considerable option for rail travellers. Pass holders can also reserve seats online for up to a month in advance for free on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
Header image credit: 福島県観光物産交流協会
