Tokyo is a city that has everything: food, sightseeing, and even hot springs if they venture out from the metropolitan area. The city also has a comprehensive train network, although many first-time travellers would be intimidated by its sheer complexity. I was like that when I first travelled to Tokyo: intimidated and unsure if I could ever navigate the network. To my surprise, I did manage to understand it on my first try and since then, I have been using it―especially JR local lines―to explore places that are not often mentioned by other foreign visitors.
Most people would visit the usual central places in Tokyo: Shinjuku, Ginza, Shibuya, and the like. I try to avoid them, especially in recent times because I have been there too many times. I find it more fascinating to explore the quieter neighbourhoods, especially those near JR stations so that I can drop by easily and make my way on foot. I did manage to find some, and I will introduce them in this two-part article!
① Nakameguro
Nakameguro (中目黒) is one of the stations along the JR Yamanote Line (JR山手線), and is popular for being a trendy and upscale neighbourhood. It is home to hipster cafés, Western-style restaurants, and upmarket bars. On top of that, it is one of the most popular sites for cherry blossom viewing.
I first visited Nakameguro in August 2014, during my month-long training programs in my previous company. I wanted to check the neighbourhood out because it is along the Yamanote Line, and also heard that the neighbourhood was preparing for a summer festival.
I personally love Nakameguro. It is unlike many other more popular areas in Tokyo; it has a sense of understated charm and unique character. The neighbourhood is known to be chic and classy, and I have to agree. Unless it is during the cherry blossom season, it is not crowded so walking aimlessly and making discoveries of local stores is a pleasant experience.
The centrepiece of Nakameguro is the Meguro River, an 8km-long picturesque stream that cuts through several neighbourhoods (including Nakameguro) until Tokyo Bay. It is here that people would flock to see cherry blossoms blooming from late March to early April.
Unfortunately, I did not get to visit Nakameguro in spring; I would have loved to see the river covered in cherry blossom petals with my own eyes, or enjoy a drink at one of the many cafes or pubs at the riverside. Plus, there is even the Nakameguro Parasitological Museum (目黒寄生虫館) nearby, which intrigues me.
I would highly recommend people to visit Nakameguro especially during spring, and not just because of the cherry blossoms. The walk from JR Meguro station towards Nakameguro will be an unforgettable stroll that is a sensory treat.
Nakameguro (中目黒)
Address: Meguro-shi, Tokyo 153-0061
Access: 20–30-minute walk from JR Meguro Station (JR目黒駅) or 15-minute walk from JR Ebisu Station (JR恵比寿駅)
② Daikanyama
Daikanyama (代官山) is another trendy neighbourhood on the western side of central Tokyo. It is in the centre of the ‘trendy triangle’ that comprises Shibuya, Nakameguro, and Ebisu. But unlike Shibuya―which is perpetually crowded with teenagers―or Ebisu―which is known for its upscale restaurants and nightlife―Daikanyama is much quieter and more charming.
In a way, Daikanyama is the older and more mature version of Shibuya. With its fair share of chic cafes and popular bookstores, it is the place that attracts visitors who want to get away from crowds and spend their quiet afternoon meeting up with friends over brunch, or with a book over a cup of latte. In some ways, it is like Omotesando but much less crowded. Book lovers must take note that Daikanyama is home to Japanese bookstore giant TSUTAYA’s iconic T-SITE, a store designed to resemble a library in the woods!
What’s more, Daikanyama is a haven for café crawlers. The alleys of Daikanyama are filled with hipster cafés offering many Western-inspired menus, and it is easy to be spoiled for choice. It is the perfect place to spend your quiet Sunday away from crowds; better yet, it is only a 10–15-minute walk away from JR Shibuya Station or JR Ebisu Station.
Shibuya and Ebisu remain the place that attracts a lot more people, but for those making a stop at JR Shibuya Station or JR Ebisu Station, I would implore them to make a detour to Daikanyama for something a little different and surprising.
Daikanyama (中目黒)
Address: 17-1 Daikanyamacho, Shibuya-shi, Tokyo 150-0034
Access: 20–30-minute walk from JR Shibuya Station (JR渋谷駅) or JR Ebisu Station (JR恵比寿駅)
JR TOKYO Wide Pass
The JR TOKYO Wide Pass is an affordable pass offering unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) in the valid area for 3 consecutive days. At ¥15,000, you can use it to travel from Tokyo to many other places within the designated areas, such as Nikko, GALA Yuzawa, Karuizawa and more. You can also make seat reservations online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
Header image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang
