Tsuyu in Japan: Must-Visit Spots for Hydrangeas During the Rainy Season

During Japan’s rainy season, otherwise known as tsuyu (梅雨), a particular flower strives in the wet conditions and shines through the gloom. Hydrangea is the quintessential flower of the rainy season. Vibrant hydrangeas inject colours and life into Japan’s landscape when rain falls. 

Planning to visit Japan during the rainy months? Check out this guide to learn more about hydrangeas and the must-visit places to enjoy viewing hydrangeas in Japan. 

What are Hydrangeas or Ajisai?

Multi-coloured hydrangeas | Photo by photoAC

Known as ajisai (アジサイ・紫陽花) in Japanese, hydrangeas are also called shichihenge (七変化) which means “seven transformations” or “eight immortal flower”. The befitting name describes the flower’s unique characteristics. The flower petals change colours depending on the pH, the acidity or alkalinity, of the soil. 

Hydrangeas petals | Photo by photoAC

The colours of the petals change dramatically over the course of 4–6 weeks of blooming. The flowers grow deeper in colour intensity as rainwater falls on them. It is common to find a kaleidoscope of blossoms on a single bush!

When Do Hydrangeas Bloom in Japan?

Hydrangeas and Teru Teru Bozu doll. | Photo by photoAC

Hydrangea is a symbol of Japan’s rainy season that marks the start of summer. During the months from May to July, hydrangeas pop up in different parts of Japan depending on the timing and duration of the tsuyu season.

Fun fact: Tsuyu is also when you might chance upon the teru teru bozu (てるてる坊主) in front of shops or houses, which are hanging dolls made of cloth or tissue paper, in hopes of keeping rain at bay.

Rainy season descends to the southern part of Japan first. Okinawa, the southernmost prefecture of Japan, receives frequent rainfall from May till June while the rest of Japan’s rainy months are from June to July. 

The beauty of hydrangeas has captivated the Japanese and even the famous poet, Matsuo Basho, composed a haiku when he admired hydrangeas in Fukagawa (深川):

紫陽花や 藪を小庭の 別座敷

ajisai ya / yabu wo koniwa no / betsu zashiki

Hydrangea!

in grove, being little garden,

the detached room

Best Spots to View Hydrangeas in Japan

Did you know there are over 100 varieties of hydrangeas in Japan? The Japanese have embraced the joy of viewing hydrangeas during the rainy season and they celebrate this special flowering season by visiting temples and gardens famous to enjoy beautiful displays of hydrangeas and hydrangeas festivals. 

Here’s a list of the best places where you can soak in the beauty of hydrangeas in Japan. 

1. Hakusan Shrine, Bunkyo, Tokyo

Hakusan Shrine and hydrangea | Photo by photoAC

If you’re visiting Tokyo, Hakusan Shrine (白山神社) in Bunkyo City is a convenient place to enjoy hydrangeas. Located in central Tokyo, Bunkyo is known as the flowering city in Tokyo as it hosts the “Five major flower festivals of Bunkyo” every year, showcasing flowers that best represent the four seasons. 

In June, during the rainy season, Hakusan Shrine is the main venue for the Bunkyo Hydrangea Festival (文京あじさいまつり). Alongside Hakusan Shrine, the surrounding Hakusan Park is illuminated with splendid colours of over 3,000 hydrangeas. The Bunkyo Hydrangea Festival celebrates the full bloom of the hydrangeas with festivities like omikoshi procession, stalls selling food and potted hydrangeas, concerts, and more. 

2. Meigetsuin Temple, Kamakura, Kanagawa

Hydrangeas corridor in Meigetsuin Temple | Photo by photoAC

The coastal town of Kamakura is a popular hydrangea-viewing destination that is easily accessible by train in less than an hour from Tokyo. Kamakura is home to historic temples and one of the top temples, Meigetsuin Temple (明月院), is a hydrangea hot spot. 

Meigetsuin Temple is called ajisaidera (あじさい寺), “Hydrangea Temple”, because every rainy season the temple bursts into colours with over 2,500 hydrangeas. The hydrangeas blooming here are dominated by the brilliant blue “Princess Hydrangeas” (姫アジサイ). Enjoy a hydrangea-filled day trip in Kamakura by combining your visit to Meigetsuin Temple with other temples like Hase Temple (長谷寺) and Tokei Temple (東慶寺). 

3. Shimoda Park, Izu Peninsula, Shizuoka

The view of hydrangeas and Shimoda Harbour | Photo by photoAC

An impressive spread of over 3 million hydrangeas blankets the Shimoda Park (下田公園) in Shizuoka Prefecture every year in June. Perched on a forested hill overlooking the Shimoda Port, Shimoda Park is a picturesque sanctuary where you can enjoy panoramic views of Shimoda Park, the Izu Peninsula, and Pacific Ocean. 

Proud to be one of the largest hydrangea viewing areas in Japan, Shimoda Park welcomes visitors with its famous hydrangeas that paint the landscape in splashes of blue, pink, and purple. The park is also historically significant, as Shimoda Port was the first port in Japan to open to the world, and the Monument to the Opening of Diplomatic Relations of the United States and Japan is situated in the park. Local and international flower lovers flock to the park to admire the blooming hydrangeas and participate in the annual Hydrangea Festival. 

4. Unshouji Temple, Oga, Akita

The Blue Heaven of hydrangeas in Unshouji Temple | Photo by photoAC

Famous for its lush blue hydrangeas growth, which have been described as resembling “blue heaven”, Unshoji Temple (雲昌寺) is a top hydrangea spot in the Tohoku Region. Located in Oga City in Akita Prefecture, Unshoji Temple is bestowed the title of “Hydrangea Temple” as its hydrangea display is described as a must-see seasonal sight in Japan. 

The temple’s dense growth of hydrangeas is the result of the vision and hard work of Shuun Konaka, the Deputy Chief Priest of Unshoji Temple. Mesmerised by the beauty of the blue hydrangeas, he has devoted his time to cultivate over 1,500 hydrangeas from the cuttings of the original flower. Using a unique growing technique, he has successfully grown luscious hydrangeas bushes where each flower is filled with more petals.

Visitors can enjoy viewing the mesmerising blue carpet of hydrangeas during the day and also in the evening when the temple grounds are illuminated. 

5. Mimurotoji Temple, Uji, Kyoto

Rare heart-shaped hydrangeas in Mimurotoji Temple | Photo by photoAC

If you find yourself in the Kansai Region during the rainy season, Kyoto Prefecture has many hydrangeas viewing areas and one of the most visited spots is Mimurotoji Temple (三室戸寺). Nestled on the northern hills of Uji City, the well-known tea-growing region in Kyoto, Mimurotoji Temple has gained the reputation as a flower temple for its gorgeous gardens.

The gardens are decorated by over 20,000 hydrangeas and visitors can enjoy a scenic stroll through the gardens’ well-manicured paths lined with radiantly coloured hydrangeas. The temple is home to beautiful buildings like the three-tiered vermilion pagoda, Buddha Hall, and statues of deities and animals.

The highlight of the temple tour is admiring the colourful petals that form adorable heart-shaped hydrangeas, which can be found in clusters around the temple grounds.

6. Yohena Ajisai Garden, Motobu, Okinawa

Early hydrangeas blooming in Yohena Ajisai Garden | Photo by photoAC

In Japan’s southernmost prefecture, Okinawa, there is a hidden gem for ajisai viewing during the rainy season. Yohena Ajisai Garden (よへなあじさい園) in Izumi of Motobu is the fruit of the labour by the late Mrs Uto Yohena. Mrs Yohena’s hobby of planting flowers in her tangerine field garden blossomed into a spectacular hydrangea attraction, which is ranked as one of the 30 best hydrangeas gardens in Western Japan. 

Her hard work was recognised by the Okinawan community and she received the “Regional Contribution Award” by the Okinawa Times Newspaper, Ryukyu Shimpo (琉球新報). Her garden also won the sixth best award in the West District Japan Hydrangea Garden contest. The garden was opened to the public in 2001 and since then, many visitors from all over Japan have travelled to the northern part of Okinawa during the rainy season. 

Enjoy a breathtaking view of the vibrant floral landscape that showcases a stunning juxtaposition of colourful hydrangeas against the green monochrome backdrop of Motobu.

Soak in the Joy of Tsuyu with Yummy Japanese Snacks

With hydrangeas blooming in forests and parks during Japan’s rainy season, you can explore the outdoors to soak in the beauty of nature. Rainy days are also good for staying indoors, watching your favourite TV shows, and enjoying snacks. Speaking of snacks, wouldn’t it be great to receive a monthly surprise of Japanese snacks at the comforts of your home? 

Savour popular snacks such as the Sakuranbo Kirara Jelly and Yukidoke Cookies from Yamagata this June 2024 with JAPAN RAIL CLUB’s “Yummy Yamagata” Omiyage Snack Box. All snacks are curated, packed, and shipped directly from Japan!

Rainy days are more fun with the exclusive promo code “YUMMY12” that gives you a special 12% discount when you subscribe to the 3/6/12-month snack box monthly plan. Happy snacking!