While Oita Prefecture in Kyushu is best known for its traditional onsen hot springs, the region is also rich in scenic wonder. Located just a few kilometres from world famous onsen resort town of Beppu, the Kunisaki Peninsula (国東半島 Kunisaki Hantō) is the site of extensive mountain trails formed through an ancient religious practice.
In the 8th century, mountain priests called yamabushi (山伏) erected a network of temples nestled deep within the peninsula’s rugged mountains and stretching all the way to the coast. Today, you can still visit these well-preserved sites, hiking along paths that have been traversed for over a millennium.
Start at Usa Jingu
Situated at the base of Kunisaki Peninsula, Usa Jingu (宇佐神宮 Usa Shrine) is a massive Shinto and Buddhist complex at the center of an ancient religious practice.
Built some 1,200 years ago, Usa Jingu is the first Hachiman-jinja (八幡神社 Hachiman shrine), which are dedicated to the ancient deity of the same name. With approximately 25,000 Hachiman-jinja sites across the country, Usa Jingu’s importance to Japanese religious history cannot be understated.
The complex itself is massive, so be sure to allow an hour or so to enjoy the well-tailored grounds and walking paths. Along the way, you’ll be able to learn about Japan’s “syncretic” religious past, in which Buddhism intersected with existing unique religious practices now known as Shintoism.
Usa Jingu (宇佐神宮)
Address: 2859 Minamiusa, Usa, Oita 872-0102
Nearest station: Usa Station (宇佐駅)
Trek across the peninsula
The legendary monk Ninmon (仁聞) is said to have founded 28 temples on the peninsula in the early 8th century. Soon, his followers carved out trails connecting each site, making gruelling pilgrimages imbued with esoteric spiritual meaning. These sites, collectively called the Rokugō-Manzan (六郷満山) temples, can still be accessed using some of the same trails forged by Ninmon’s followers.
Today, the Kunisaki Peninsula Minemichi Long Trail stretches over 130 kilometers, weaving across the peninsula and connecting sacred sites such as Futago-ji Temple (両子寺), Monjusen-ji Temple (文殊仙寺), and scenic wonders like the Mineiri Rock Peaks (峯入りの岩峰群). Despite the trail’s extensive length, those on a shorter visit can opt to traverse shorter segments of the path, focusing on one or two sites.
To plan your trek, refer to the trail guide provided by the Kunisaki City Tourism Association.
One must-see temple
If your time is limited, prioritise a visit to Futago-ji Temple first. Sitting atop a peak of the same name, Futago-ji boasts a breathtaking entrance, with a verdant stone path guarded by two stone Niō (仁王) statues, which are muscular Buddhist guardians found throughout East Asia.
Venture inside the main hall to view a notable wooden statue of the Buddhist figure Amida Nyorai (阿弥陀如来), taking time to enjoy the verdant foliage and peaceful ambiance of the well-tailored grounds.
Futago-ji Temple (両子寺)
Address: 1548 Akimachi Futago, Kunisaki, Oita 873-0356
Nearest station: JR Kitsuki Station (JR杵築駅)
Peculiar stone carvings and monuments
The Kunisaki Peninsula is also distinguished by its stone carvings and markers, found on cliffsides, and dotting the side of the road. Visit Kumano Magaibutsu (熊野磨崖仏) in Hirano, Bungotakada (豊後高田市) to see remnants of the region’s spiritual heyday from the 8th-14th century. The cliff carvings here span over 6-meters in height, depicting the Dainichi Buddha (大日如来) and Acala (不動明王).
Along the way, you are also sure to encounter stone markers on the road. Called Gorintō (五輪塔) and Kunisakitō (国東塔), these miniature monuments are actually considered pagodas, and their stacked structures depict the various physical and spiritual states of existence according to Buddhist belief.
To the beach and beyond
Consider ending your journey at Hachiman Nadagu (八幡奈多宮), which is located along a serene stretch of coastline looking out across the Seto Inland Sea. The ornate architecture of the shrine contrasted with the white sands and blue ocean makes for the perfect picture.
Hachiman Nadagu (八幡奈多宮)
Address: 229 Nada, Kitsuki, Oita 873-0032
Nearest station: Kitsuki Station (杵築駅)
To continue your journey, consider taking a ferry to the nearby island of Himeshima (姫島), which is also home to Hachiman sites and its own ancient folklore. Or, go back to nearby Beppu and relax in the natural onsen hot springs.
How to get there
Reaching Oita Prefecture from Tokyo or other major cities is easiest via air travel, with Oita Airport accessible in two hours or less. Upon arriving, renting a car with an international driver’s license is the most convenient option to explore the interior of the Kunisaki Peninsula. Some of the more notable sites in the region can be accessed via bus, taxi, or guided tour as well.
See the official Oita Prefectural Tourism Association website for up-to-date information on sites, and planning your trip.
Header image credit: Kyushu Tourism Promotion Organization
