My trip to Shiga Prefecture (滋賀県) will always be one of my most memorable.
Located in the Kansai Region (関西) of Japan, Shiga is inevitably overshadowed by its more popular neighbour, Kyoto. But Shiga is much more than that—Shiga lies at the centre of Japanese history, with its well-preserved heritage sites, untouched nature, rural countryside, and festivals.
A trip motivated by…love?
The year was 2018. The Shiga-native Japanese girl I was in contact with started becoming distant, and as I had feelings for her, it affected me considerably. After a lot of thought, and some strategic finance cutting, I made the decision to visit her in Japan, one last time.
“Does she have feelings for me?” “Will she reject me in Shiga?” “For answers, or maybe closure?” I thought to myself. That is where the journey began—one that started off for answers, to one of—cue JNTO’s tagline—endless discovery.
To be honest, I did not have any expectations when I went on this trip. Coupled with the fact no one I knew had any information on Shiga, my pre-trip research was limited at best, dividing my trip to Western Shiga and Eastern Shiga. Sounds like a recipe for a failed trip, yeah? I am glad to say that what happened was quite the contrary.
Day 1: Biwako, Shiga’s crown jewel
No matter where you are in Shiga, it is hard to miss its crown jewel Lake Biwa or Biwako (琵琶湖). Biwako was the first thing I saw when I arrived at Shiga! The hugeness of the lake will always be the best first impression I had of Shiga—one really has to see it to believe it. Biwako is completely encapsulated within the prefecture, so it is really hard to miss. There are many activities that one can partake in at various locations around Biwako.
Biwako Valley
To the West, Biwako Valley (びわ湖バレイ) offers various outdoor activities, such as an adventure trail during the summer and a ski field during the winter.
For the adventurous, my personal recommendation is the seven-course Adventure Zipline. As someone who is afraid of heights, it was a huge leap of faith. I almost chickened out! However, the panoramic view of Biwako and the thrill of stepping out my comfort zone gave me that final push, leaving me with no regrets.
The ropeway that whisk you to the top also provides unobstructed views of the surrounding, regardless of season.
There are various viewing spots and cafes along the shoreline that allows one to relax and enjoy the view that stretches endlessly. It is perfect for anyone who would like to take a break from the hustle and bustle of life.
Biwako Valley (びわ湖バレイ)
Address: 1547-1 Kido, Otsu, Shiga 520-0514
Access: From JR Shiga Station (JR志賀駅), take the route bus for 10 minutes to the Ropeway Bottom Station (ロープウェイ山麓駅前).
Note: Opening days, operating hours, and admission fees vary. Please check their calendar in advance.
The view at Biwako, which Shiga surrounds, felt like something that came straight out of a painting. Seeing it with my own eyes swept away any negative emotion I had, lighting up a spark in me: I want to discover the best Shiga has to offer. With a renewed sense of purpose, I set out on my adventure.
Day 2: Onward to Western Shiga
I started my second day early. With my trusty Tamago Sando (egg sandwich) from 7-Eleven in my hand, I began my exploration of Western Shiga. The train ride from Otsu Station (大津駅) to my first destination was a treat. Seeing is believing, so I will let the pictures speak for themselves. Be sure to grab a window seat!
Hieizan Enryakuji
Remember when I mentioned earlier on how Shiga has many well-preserved heritage sites? Some highlights would be Mount Hiei (比叡山) and Hieizan Enryakuji (比叡山延暦寺).
Hieizan Enryakuji is one of the most important monasteries in Japan. Situated at the peak of Mount Hiei, the current temple complex dates back to the 16th century. History buffs would know it as the site that was burned down by Daimyo Oda Nobunaga (織田信長) during his conquest of Japan. Hieizan Enryakuji is a must-visit when in Shiga, whether it is to explore or to experience the daily lives of the monks living there.
The cable car ride up is also a treat, with a retro-esque interior that invokes a sense of bygone times. It is a journey that makes you feel like you’ve been transported into another world.
Hieizan Enryakuji (比叡山延暦寺)
Address: 4220 Sakamotohonmachi, Otsu, Shiga 520-0116
Access: From JR Hieizan Sakamoto Station (JR比叡山坂本駅), take the bus for 6 minutes and alight at Cable Sakamoto Station (ケーブル坂本駅) and transfer to the cable car up to Enryakuji Temple.
Shirahige Shrine
After departing Hieizan Sakamoto Station, heading upwards along the rural west of Shiga, I arrived at Omi-Takashima Station (近江高島駅). Omi-Takashima is a small town, surrounded by rice fields and rustic traditional houses of Japanese architecture; iconic of Japanese countryside.
A truly off-the-beaten-path location, but herein lies a special little gem called Shirahige Shrine (白髭神社).
Shirahige Shrine is often hailed as the “Itsukushima of Omi”—Omi being the ancient name of Shiga—paying homage to the Itsukushima Shrine in Hiroshima. The shrine boasts its own “floating-on-water” torii gate minus the swarm of international tourists. This is what makes the shrine such a gem.
Shirahige Shrine is also dedicated to the Shinto God of longevity, marriage and academia: Sarutahiko Okami (猿田彦大神). For those who wish to have a long and healthy life, you know where to go. It takes you about 30–45 minutes on foot to get from the station to the shrine, provided you do not get lost along the way or get too mesmerised by the spectacular view surrounding the town. I know I did (for both).
However, therein lies the beauty of travelling—getting lost along the way only to discover things that you might have missed. My walk took me through eerie abandoned houses, hidden gems and pleasant winds that swept my way. When I left the shrine, I was greeted by the setting sun, as it slowly painted the blue summer sky bright orange.
Shirahige Shrine (白髭神社)
Address: 215 Ukawa, Takashima, Shiga 520-1122
Access: From JR Omi-Takashima Station (JR近江高島駅), it is a 5-minute taxi ride or a 40-minute walk to Shirahige Shrine.
Day 3: Across history and time in Hikone
In the past, there was this saying; “He who conquers Omi (Shiga), conquers Japan (近江を制する者は天下を制する).”
Two of Japan’s five highways—the Nakasendo and Tokaido—cuts through the prefecture, and Eastern Shiga is the site of many castles, destroyed or preserved, and the towns that flourished around it.
One of such towns is Hikone (彦根). Located along the Nakasendo, Hikone served as an important hub for inland travellers on their way to Kyoto. With traditional shophouses reminiscent of Edo-period architecture, Hikone is the very definition of a castle town.
Hikone Castle
At the centre of this beautiful town stands Hikone’s main hallmark—Hikone Castle (彦根城 Hikone-jo). Since its completion in 1622, Hikone Castle has remained mostly untouched, surviving till this day as one of Japan’s 12 original-construction castles.
Walking around the castle reveals its many intricacies and gardens, such as the Genkyu-en Garden (玄宮園) where one can get an Instagram-worthy shot of Hikone Castle while sipping some refreshing tea, and the main castle mast (天守閣 Tenshukaku), where one can get a stunning view of Hikone and Biwako.
Hikone Castle is also designated as a national treasure, and only three other castles in Japan share this prestigious title! Can you guess them all?* (I will reveal the answer at the bottom of this article!)
Hikone Castle (彦根城)
Address: 1-1 Konki-cho, Hikone, Shiga 522-0061
Access: From JR Hikone Station (JR彦根駅), it is a 15-minute walk to the castle grounds.
Hayano Shokudo: An experience unlike any other
After exploring Hikone Castle, I came across a small establishment called Hayano Shokudo (はやの食堂). Run by a small Japanese family, this place sells some pretty good Japanese food for a very competitive price. I tried their recommendation; oyakodon (親子丼 chicken-and-egg bowl) and it’s one of the best I’ve had so far. The savoury egg omelette topped off with juicy chunks of chicken are some of the most enjoyable meals I had throughout my journey.
The family that runs the place are also a friendly lot, elevating and personalising the dining experience. Talk to them about anything, they will be more than happy to share! You’ve got to love hidden gems like these—warm and personable hospitality that satisfies both your tummy and soul.
Hayano Shokudo (はやの食堂)
Address: 7-11 Sawa-cho, Hikone, Shiga 522-0075
Access: From JR Hikone Station (JR彦根駅), it is a 5-minute walk en-route to Hikone Castle.
Taga Taisha: An unexpected discovery
My next destination was a place I never planned to visit. After transferring to a local train operated by Omi Railway (近江鉄道), I unknowingly fell asleep en-route to my initial destination, and ended up at a station called Taga Taisha-mae Station (多賀大社前駅).
“I should just wait for the next train,” I thought to myself at that moment.
But with the next train being an hour away, I wasn’t going to sit idly by. Fortunately for me, there was a community house beside the station, and after speaking to some friendly locals, I was introduced to Taga Taisha (多賀大社 Taga Shrine), which the station is conveniently named after.
What I learned from the locals was that Taga Taisha, or O-taga-san (お多賀さん), isn’t just old, it is ancient. The completion of this shrine dates back to the Nara Period (710–794), and was mentioned in the Kojiki (古事記)—the oldest recorded text in Japan.
Taga Taisha blends both Buddhist and Shinto elements into its design, and is devoted to Izanagi-no-ookami (伊邪那岐大神) and Izanami-no-ookami (伊邪那美大神)—the Shinto God and Goddess of longevity and relationships.
Maybe now I know why I was led here. Have the gods found out about my true purpose of coming to Shiga!?
Being just a 10-minute walk from the station, Taga Taisha is hard to miss. Just follow the huge torii gate in front of the station. The walk will take you by many shophouses selling souvenirs and items unique to the area. One of these is a snack called Itokiri-mochi (糸切餅)—a mochi dedicated to the Japanese victory over the Mongols.
Taga Shrine (多賀大社)
Address: 604 Taga, Inukami-gun, Shiga 522-0341
Access: From Taga Taisha-mae Station (多賀大社前駅), the shrine is a 10-minute walk.
Day 4: Exploring Nakasendo, bridging past and present
The next day I made my way to Maibara Station (米原駅) and rented a bicycle for the whole day. There is only one local bicycle shop at the station offering such service, called Biwaichi Rental Cycle (びわこ一周レンタサイクル). It is a humble shop opened by Shiga-natives and their owners are more than happy to share their personal recommendations in Shiga.
With transportation for the day settled, clear skies ushering new prospects for adventure, I set forth into the horizon.
Following portions of National Route 21 and the less-traveled historic routes, this bicycle ride was really an exhilarating experience. Greeted by the usual scenery common across the Japanese countryside at all sides, it can simply be a field day for travellers! I was trying my best not to get too distracted, lest I would be stopping too often for a quick photo.
Samegai
Within an hour, I arrived at a small village called Samegai (醒ヶ井). A village seemingly blended with nature, Samegai served as one of Nakasendo’s many checkpoints during the Edo Period (1603–1868). While those days have long passed, many of the shophouses and trading posts that line up on the old highway live on till this day, selling sweets and crafts that reminisce of its ancient lineage.
Flowing directly through Samegai is the Jizogawa River (地蔵川), a clear water river famous for staying 14ºC throughout the year and a species of flower native to Japan: Baikamo (梅花藻 water buttercup).
For travellers wanting to take some shots of the local scenery, psst, go where the locals go.
To beat the summer heat that plagues late-July Japan, I stopped by a local cafe specialising in kakigōri (shaved ice) called Tachi-Ki (たち李). From the looks of it, you can already tell that effort and heart had been put into preparing this mouthwatering dessert.
From a wide selection of flavours, ranging from matcha topped with red bean, to their highly recommended “Ichigo Milk”, shave off that heat! Your body will love you for that. Ice-kachang fans, this is for you!
The interior of the cafe blends elements of Edo and pre-war era Japan, invoking a certain Je-ne-sais-quoi (i.e. something that attracts you, but you do not know exactly what it is), within this humble village.
Biwaichi Rental Cycle (びわこ一周レンタサイクル)
Address: JR Maibara Station East Gate 1F, 413-1, Maibara, Shiga 521-0012
Access: Located within JR Maibara Station (JR米原駅) (in front of Omi Railway’s Entrance/Exit)
Tachi-Ki (和cafe たち季)
Address: 380 Samegai, Maibara, Shiga 521-0035
Access: From JR Samegai Station (JR醒ヶ井駅), it is a 12-minute walk.
Toyosato: A mix of anime and fireworks
On the surface, Toyosato (豊郷町) might seem like just another Japanese town. However, any anime fan will know that this town is much more than that.
Any K-ON! (けいおん！) fans out there? Because this one’s for you! For those who are new, K-ON! is an anime about a high school light music club (軽音部 Kei-on-bu) made by the renown Kyoto Animation.
Arriving at the town, one will be greeted by a town that has incorporated the anime into its landscape. This can be seen from anime posters plastered on Edo-era shophouses to the numerous anime character “children crossing” warnings around the town. It will feel almost like magic, as though you are already in the anime itself.
Following these children crossing warnings will bring you to the Old Toyosato Elementary School Building (豊郷小学校旧校舎群).
Built in 1937, the building was used as the basis for the fictional Sakuragaoka High School—the school where the main characters of the anime go.
From the rabbit and tortoise stairway, to the corridors and classrooms, everything has been faithfully recreated in the anime.
The room used by the club in the anime has also been brought to life, with props in place, and a board with drawings from fans who have graced this iconic room. As a fan of K-ON myself, I had to leave my mark!
Many associate Japan with anime, and it is undeniable that anime is slowly becoming one of the reasons people travel to Japan. To visit places featured in animes is known as “anime-tourism”, or seichi-junrei (聖地巡礼 pilgrimage). So anime fans, the next time you find yourself in Shiga, do give Toyosato a visit. No regrets, I promise.
The old halls of Toyosato Elementary School (豊郷小学校旧校舎群)
Address: 522 Ishibatake, Toyosato-cho, Inukami-gun, Shiga 529-1169
Access: From Toyosato Station (豊郷駅), it is a 10-minute walk.
Bonus: Omi Shrine
Fans of the anime Chihayafuru (ちはやふる) can visit Omi Shrine (近江神宮 Omi-jingu) located in Otsu City (大津市 Otsu-shi). Known as the holy land of Karuta (歌留多), a traditional card game, the shrine was heavily featured in the anime, and hosts two karuta tournaments every year.
Omi Shrine is also dedicated to Emperor Tenji (天智天皇), who composed one of the poems used in karuta.
Omi Shrine (近江神宮)
Address: 1-1 Jingucho, Otsu, Shiga 520-0015
Access: From Omi-jingu-mae Station (近江神宮前駅), it is a 3-minute bus ride or a 10-minute walk.
The answer at journey’s end
Okay, I think I have been eluding this till now but I am sure the question on some of your minds is, “So does the girl from Shiga have any feelings for you!?”
If you think this would be a happy ending like some J/K-Dramas you have watched till now, sorry to burst your bubble. On the second last night of my trip, as the purplish tangerine evening sky slowly dimmed, along the coast of Biwako, we met, I confessed, and was rejected.
Somehow I knew the outcome before the trip, but I still had to hear it for myself. Maybe I just needed that last nail in the coffin to move on. While rejections are sad, no matter which country you travel to, I have no regrets going to Shiga. The adventures I had during my time there are some of my most memorable even to this day.
And like the distant firework off Biwako that same night, this trip has been a blast.
With that, my adventures in Shiga have come to an end. Endings are not permanent, and with every ending, a new beginning. There is still so much I have yet to explore in Shiga, but some good things are worth the wait.
*The three other castles are: Himeji Castle, Matsumoto Castle and Inuyama Castle
Header image credit: John Ong
