When talking about Japan, people often think of Mount Fuji, the bustling capital of Tokyo, the peaceful ancient capital of Kyoto or unique modern technology products. However, when it comes to Japan, it is impossible not to mention cherry blossoms. Every year, when the weather warms up, people all over Japan eagerly welcome the upcoming cherry blossom season. Cherry blossoms in full bloom herald the end of winter and the coming of spring, bringing hope for a new beginning.
In mid-April earlier this year, we decided to take a trip to the southern part of Tohoku, which is famous for its beautiful nature. During this trip, we had the opportunity to visit many famous cherry blossom spots in the Tohoku region, and we were lucky that most of the places we visited were in bloom. Seeing thousands of cherry trees in full bloom, which was striking against Tohoku’s beautiful natural scenery, was truly an unforgettable experience.
In this two-part series, I will share with you our spring journey to Southern Tohoku. Our trip lasted 4 days and 3 nights, and we checked out so many wonderful places in Fukushima’s Aizu region, Yamagata, and Matsushima Bay.
For part one, I will cover Days 1–2. Let’s review my favourite memories and sights from the trip!
Day 1: Tokyo → Aizu-Wakamatsu → Kitakata → Aizu-Wakamatsu
The first stop of our trip was Tsuruga Castle, located in the city of Aizu Wakamatsu, which has long been considered the symbol of the Aizu region. From Tokyo, it takes just over an hour by shinkansen to Koriyama Station, where we transferred to the JR Ban-Etsu West Line to Aizu-Wakamatsu, located in the western part of Fukushima Prefecture.
Before setting off, we did not forget to stop by the Ekibenya Matsuri store at Tokyo Station to buy ekiben (lunch box sold at train stations) to recharge on the train, preparing for the upcoming trip.
After a journey of nearly 3 hours, we finally arrived at Aizu-Wakamatsu Station. Don’t forget to take a souvenir photo with akabeko (赤べこ), the symbolic mascot of the city (“aka” means “red” in Japanese, “beko” means “cow” in the Tohoku regional dialect).
Akabeko is loved by the locals and is considered a guardian deity for children. Today, akabeko made of washi paper and lacquer are among the unique traditional crafts of Fukushima Prefecture, believed to bring good luck, ward off evil spirits and diseases. Don’t forget to buy yourself an akabeko souvenir when you come to Fukushima!
The Aizu region is famous for its beautiful natural scenery, sake, traditional handicrafts and especially the long history related to samurai. The Aizu region in general and Aizu-Wakamatsu in particular is known as the residence of many samurai clans during Japan’s feudal period from the Warring States period (15th century) to the end of the Edo period (19th century).
If you are a history buff or want to learn about Japanese history, don’t miss the chance to explore Aizu-Wakamatsu!
Tsuruga Castle
Tsuruga Castle (鶴ヶ城) is about a 20-minute bus ride from JR Aizu-Wakamatsu Station (会津若松駅). The castle was built in the 14th century and was destroyed in the Boshin War in 1868, and was one of the strongholds of the last samurai loyal to the shogunate regime. Therefore, the castle is seen as a symbol of loyalty and bravery.
The castle was rebuilt in the 1960s and has since become a popular attraction of Aizu. Aside from its long history, Tsuruga Castle is also known as a must-see cherry blossom viewing spot with over 1,000 someiyoshino type cherry trees planted in the grounds surrounding the castle.
Walking under the cherry blossoms or watching thousands of cherry trees bloom from the top floor of the castle was an unforgettable experience for us on this trip.
The castle’s interior still displays the swords and armour of the lords, as well as artefacts that reflect the great history of the Aizu Region. We can feel the changes that have occurred throughout history, thanks to the fascinating exhibits and rich information.
Tsuruga Castle Park and the surrounding area can be viewed from the top floor of Tsuruga Castle. No matter which side we stand on, we are all in awe of the scenery outside. Right below the castle is Tsuruga Castle Park with thousands of blooming cherry trees, and afar is the majestic Mount Bandai covered with white snow that stands out against the blue sky.
Tsuruga Castle (鶴ヶ城)
Address: Address: 1-1 Otemachi, Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima 965-0873
Access: From Aizu-Wakamatsu Station (会津若松駅), take the loop bus (Haikara-san bus or Akabe bus) to Tsurugajo Kitaguchi bus stop and walk 5 minutes to the castle.
Lunch: Kitakata ramen
Our next destination for this trip is one of the most famous cherry blossom spots in Fukushima Prefecture, the Nicchu Line Weeping Cherry Blossoms (日中線しだれ桜並木), located in Kitakata City. From JR Aizu-Wakamatsu, it takes just over 15 minutes to reach JR Kitakata Station (喜多方駅) by way of the JR Ban-etsu West Line.
When we arrived at Kitakata Station, our stomachs began to rumble, signaling that it was time for lunch. Kitakata City is extremely famous for ramen, to the point that Kitakata ramen (喜多方ラーメン) is considered one of the three best ramen in Japan (along with Sapporo miso ramen and Hakata tonkotsu ramen). Also, it is interesting that Kitakata City has the highest ratio of ramen shops to population in Japan.
Coming here, we just had to try the famous Kitakata ramen for lunch. The biggest feature of Kitakata ramen is the large, flat, and curly noodles, which are very chewy.
Kitakata ramen‘s broth is sweet, stewed from pork bones and seasoned with soy sauce. Toppings include roasted pork, scallions, bamboo shoots, and naruto fish cakes. Just finish a bowl and you’ll have enough energy to continue your afternoon discovery journey.
Nicchu Line Weeping Cherry Blossoms
After recharging our energy, we continue the journey of flower viewing. Located about a 15-minute walk from Kitakata Station, the pedestrian and cycling path along the former Nicchu Railway Line is famous for its weeping cherry blossoms (しだれ桜 shidarezakura), which have deep pink petals and branches that droop downward like waterfalls. Although loved by many Japanese, this place is not really known by foreign tourists.
The best time to see the cherry blossoms is usually around mid to late April, and we were so lucky to have come here right at the time when the cherry blossoms were in full bloom. Along a small path about 3km long for pedestrians or cyclists are more than 1,000 weeping cherry trees. The whole road is dyed with the pink color of cherry blossoms, which really made an unforgettable impression!
We came across a steam locomotive that was once used on the Nicchu Railway, connecting Kitakata Station with Atsushio Station. After this line was closed in 1984, the steam locomotive part of the train was displayed here, and became a place for many tourists to enjoy taking photos.
Nicchu Line Weeping Cherry Blossoms (日中線しだれ桜並木)
Address: 7244-2 Oshimizuhigashi, Kitakata-shi, Fukushima 966-0095
Access: 15-minute walk from JR Kitakata Station (喜多方駅)
Tsuruga Castle night illumination
After more than 2 hours of walking around and taking more than 100 photos, we took the train from Kitakata back to Aizu-Wakamatsu, then headed over to Tsuruga Castle again to enjoy the last beautiful scenery of the day—the night illumination.
Not only famous for its romantic scenery during the day, the grounds around the castle are also lit up at night during the cherry blossom season, and is a spot for night cherry blossom viewing (夜桜 yozakura) that is popular with both locals and visitors.
We returned to the city at around 18:00, when the park around the city had just lit up. The whole park, the castle and more than 1,000 cherry trees were illuminated, creating a colourful and fantasy-like scenery.
Dinner: Aizu Sauce katsudon
For dinner, we enjoyed a specialty of Aizu—Sauce katsudon (ソースカツ丼). Katsudon is a famous Japanese deep-fried pork cutlet. Each prefecture has its own version of this dish, and the Aizu Region’s own version is sauce katsudon.
After deep-frying, the crispy pork cutlet will be sprinkled with a layer of sweet and salty sauce, creating an irresistibly delicious taste which goes great with warm rice.
Day 2: Aizu-Wakamatsu → Kaminoyama → Yamagata
On the second day of our spring trip, we said goodbye to Aizu and headed to Yamagata, a large mountainous prefecture that borders Fukushima Prefecture.
Our first stop in Yamagata was Kaminoyama Castle (上山城), which is located in Kaminoyama, a famous hot spring town at the foot of Mount Zao, Kaminoyama is less than 15 minutes from Yamagata Station by shinkansen, making it a convenient half-day trip.
Kaminoyama Castle
Walking from JR Kaminoyamaonsen Station (かみのやま温泉駅) for about 10 minutes, we arrived at Kaminoyama Castle, which is located on a hill in the middle of the town.
It used to be the residence of the lords of this land during the Edo Period (1603–1868). The castle was later demolished and rebuilt in the 1980s. Inside is a small museum that reflects the unique history and culture of the local area.
From the top floor of the castle, visitors can admire the entire vast land around. Around the castle is Tsukioka Park, which is planted with hundreds of someiyoshino and shidare types of cherry blossoms, and is a popular cherry blossom viewing spot for locals and visitors alike.
Right at the foot of the castle is a foot bath (足湯 ashiyu). Relaxing, soaking your feet in warm water, watching cherry blossoms and the majestic Zao Mountain Range in the distance is an experience that everyone should not miss if they have the opportunity to come to Kaminoyama!
According to legend, in the 1400s, a monk saw cranes soaking in hot springs in this area to treat their wounds. Since then, the clear hot springs in Kaminoyama have been known for their healing and restorative effects.
The whole town is dotted with hot spring resorts and foot baths that help visitors relax. Other than Kaminoyama Castle, the surrounding old streets with former samurai houses are also attractions not to be missed when coming to Kaminoyama.
Kaminoyama Castle (上山城)
Address: 3-7 Motojnai, Kaminoyama, Yamagata 999-3154
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Kaminoyamaonsen Station (かみのやま温泉駅)
Lunch: Soba
For lunch, we decided to try Yamagata’s famous specialty, soba noodles! Made from raw buckwheat, the soba here is slightly stiffer with a distinctive buckwheat flavour.
The soba at the local store where we visited was placed in a wooden box, and the soba noodles dyed in different colours using vegetable dye was so eye-catching, and made our mouths water. Itadakimasu!
Kajo Park
One of the most unforgettable highlights of this trip for us was Kajo Park (霞城公園), which is just a 10-minute walk from JR Yamagata Station. The park is built on the ruins of the former Yamagata Castle. Now, only the outer castle moat and stone walls remain.
Yamagata Castle was built in the 1500s by Yoshiaki Mogami, one of the prominent feudal lords of the Tohoku region. Within the castle grounds is a statue of Lord Yoshiaki riding a horse in memory of the man who built the castle and made many contributions to the history of Yamagata.
More than just a historical site, Kajo Park is also recognised as one of the best cherry blossom viewing spots in the Tohoku region in spring, when more than 1,500 cherry trees are seen inside and along the castle grounds.
Although we have been living in Japan for a long time and have seen cherry blossoms in many places, and even though it was a bit past the time when the flowers were at their most beautiful when we visited, we couldn’t help but marvel at the cherry blossom scenery of Kajo Park.
What left the greatest impression was the area around the moat that surrounds the park, as it was covered with the pale pink colour of fallen cherry blossoms petals, creating a blanket of pink on the moat.
The sight of falling cherry blossom petals blowing in the wind, covering the water surface of the moats surrounding the castle really makes a strong impression on anyone who has ever seen it. At night, the rows of illuminated cherry trees make the scenery even more splendid.
Just outside the castle park is the JR railway line, and we were lucky enough to capture images of trains running through the cherry trees around the park. During the cherry blossom season, the train passing through the park will slow down for visitors to enjoy the view of cherry blossoms.
Kajo Park (霞城公園)
Address: 1-7 Kajōmachi, Yamagata 990-0826
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Yamagata Station (山形駅)
Closing
That’s it for Day 1–2, stay tuned for Part 2 of this series, where we check out more sakura spots in Yamagata and Matsushima on Day 3–4 of our trip!
Header image credit: Nguyen Duy Khanh
