Hot springs (温泉 onsen) are one of the primary reasons people from all over the world flock to Japan time and time again. Regardless of the time of the year, visitors find the experience of dipping into hot spring baths irresistible. While many people would vouch for winter to be the best season for hot springs, others would claim that there’s no bad season for hot springs: it’s always a good time to experience it, whether it’s during winter or summer.
Some people say that the best hot springs are the hardest to find. Indeed, hot springs are not known for their accessible locations. Since hot springs are formed naturally, people have to go where the hot springs are, since the best ones source the hot spring water directly from the source, most of which come from mountainous areas. Tohoku’s hot springs are no exception, but thanks to the region’s comprehensive transportation system such as JR East’s Shinkansen (新幹線) system, travelling to these secluded places has become much more manageable.
Tohoku is home to prefectures such as Miyagi, Akita, and Yamagata, each with its unique natural scenery and terrain. The region is also home to some of the best hot springs in Japan, where each prefecture boasts their unique hot springs. For example, Miyagi has hot spring resorts such as Naruko Onsen (鳴子温泉); Yamagata has the famous Ginzan Onsen (銀山温泉) and Zao Onsen (蔵王温泉). And of course, there is Takayu Onsen (高湯温泉) in FukushimaThis time, I will introduce to you another hot spring resort: Nyuto Onsen in Akita Prefecture.
Nyuto Onsen (乳頭温泉) in Akita Prefecture
Nyuto Onsen, as collectively known as Nyuto Hot Spring Village (乳頭温泉郷), is a rustic and charming hot spring village found in the primeval beech forest of the Nyuto mountains. It is made up of seven natural hot springs found at the foot of the mountain, its water sourced directly from Mother Nature.
One quirky thing about Nyuto Onsen is the name: it literally means “Nipple Hot Spring”, named after the peculiar shape of the nearby Mount Nyuto (乳頭山), which resembles a nipple. Although the name might make some visitors chuckle, there’s no denying that their experience at Nyuto Onsen will be a heavenly one.
Hot springs play an important role in Japan’s history. People in the past used hot springs to heal from wounds and injuries, as hot spring water is said to have therapeutic properties. That practice remains to this day, where people nowadays visit hot spring resorts as a getaway from busy urban life and make use of hot springs’ healing properties. The same applies for Nyuto Onsen, where its hot spring water is famous for being enriched with vitamins and minerals that are beneficial for the human body.
Akita Prefecture is known for using bountiful natural ingredients for its meals, especially in rural areas. One of them is mountain vegetables (山菜 sansai), which include wild greens and mushrooms, which can thrive in harsh cold winters that Akita often experiences and bloom just in time from spring onwards. These ingredients form a part of a culinary experience known as Jango-ryori (じゃんご料理), a local dialect that translates as countryside food.
As most people would reckon, Nyuto Onsen’s success lies in its hot spring water. It sources the water directly from the surrounding mountains, and is known for its milky and cloudy appearance. All the hot springs belong to the inns in the area, but they are not only open to staying guests; members of the public can also access some of them at a small fee.
There are a selected number of hot spring inns in Nyuto Onsen, each showcasing unparallel hospitality and escapism from hectic daily life. It’s an immersive experience in the heart of Akita’s pristine nature, and guests can choose with stay for a night or two at any of the inns, some of which have private hot spring baths for those seeking a private experience.
Tsurunoyu (鶴の湯)
Tsurunoyu has the honour of being Nyuto Onsen’s oldest hot spring inn, its establishment dating as far back as the Edo Period (1603–1867). It offers their guests an authentic rural hospitality, and even has a traditional Japan sunken hearth (囲炉裏 irori), which is iconic for dwellers of the countryside.
As an establishment with over 400 years of history, it has the privilege of housing government officials and members of royalty during their travels. The establishment’s name carries a symbolic significance: it translates as “crane hot spring”, named after the legend of a crane that recovered from an injury after soaking in the hot spring bath due to its rich mineral contents. As cranes were believed in folklore to live thousands of years, this symbolises longevity and good fortune for this establishment.
Tsurunoyu’s therapeutic hot spring water is said to be beneficial for those suffering from high blood pressure, arteriosclerosis, and rheumatism, as it is rich in sulphur and calcium chloride. For guests staying at Tsurunoyu, meals using mountain vegetables such as Japanese mountain yams (山の芋 yama-no-imo) and char / trout (イワナ iwana) are served at the comfort of their own room. Guests can also request to have their meals around the sunken hearth, subject to availability.
Taenoyu (妙乃湯)
Another well-known establishment in Nyuto Onsen is Taenoyu, a modernistic hot spring inn overlooking the Sendatsu River (先達川 Sendatsu-gawa). It is famous for its outdoor hot spring baths, which offer its guests unique tranquillity against the soft murmurs of the flowing river nearby.
Taenoyu has a unique bath: an indoor one designed with rocks around the edges, and with a distinctive gold-orange hue water. The water is high contents of magnesium, calcium, and sulphur, which are beneficial for people suffering from skin conditions, arteriosclerosis, and digestive organ diseases.
Like Tsurunoyu, Taenoyu’s baths are open not only to the guests but to the public as well. Visitors can use the baths by paying a fee. It is very popular among guests as well as visitors, many of them claiming that it’s a hot spring experience that’s not to be missed.
Of course, a stay at a hot spring inn wouldn’t be complete without dining, and Taenoyu’s spread is luxurious. Making use of the plentiful mountain vegetables and freshly caught fish, it’s a feast that is both visually and gastronomically unforgettable. Special attention is paid to preparing the meals carefully to showcase the Akita countryside’s fresh ingredients.
Kuroyu (黒湯)
Kuroyu is another hot spring inn in Nyuto Onsen with a long history, similar to Tsurunoyu. Established more than 300 years ago, the inn is located furthest away from the resort and offers the most serene lodging experience in the entire area.
Kuroyu has something unique that other hot spring inns don’t have. The establishment’s name translates as “black hot spring” because it offers black hard-boiled eggs. Fresh eggs are placed in nets and immersed in the hot spring to be boiled. The sulphurous content causes the eggs to turn black on the exterior, with their interior remaining intact. The eggs are even said to have health benefits, as the minerals from the hot spring help to kill bacteria.
Nyuto Onsen (乳頭温泉)
Address: 3-1-1 Sanno, Akita-shi, Akita 010-8572
Access: 45-minute bus ride from JR Tazawako Station (JR田沢湖駅)
BONUS: Side trips to Lake Towada
Visitors would naturally visit Nyuto Onsen for their hot springs; however, it need not be a trip with a singular affair. They can explore Lake Tazawa (田沢湖), a scenic caldera lake with a serene and rustic ambience. Due to its proximity to Nyuto Onsen, it makes for a popular day trip for people staying at the hot spring resort.
An imposing structure at Lake Tazawa is the golden statue of Tatsuko (たつこ像), which has become a local symbol in the area. There’s a story behind this statue: according to folklore, Tatsuko was a girl who prayed for eternal beauty but was instead cursed and became a dragon, sinking into the bottom of Lake Tazawa and sworn to oversee it for eternity.
Lake Tazawa (田沢湖)
Address: Saimyoji, Nishiki-cho, Senboku-shi, Akita
Access: 15-minute bus ride from JR Tazawako Station (JR田沢湖駅)
Closing
The Tohoku Region is blessed with many things, one of which is undisturbed natural surroundings. Because of its pristine nature, it is home to some of the best hot springs in Japan, and people are continually coming to discover more hidden gems. Nyuto Onsen is one such hot spring destination, and as more people come here, they also get to explore amazing places nearby. I personally have never been to Nyuto Onsen, but if there ever comes the opportunity for me to do so, I will undoubtedly go at a moment’s notice.
JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area)
The JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area for 5 consecutive days. At only ¥30,000, it’s much cheaper than a round-trip train fare between Tokyo and Akita (approximately ¥36,920). Pass holders can also reserve seats online for up to a month in advance for free on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
Header image credit: Akita Prefecture
