Tsuyu & Minazuki: A Guide to Japan’s Rainy Season in The “Month of Water”

With a higher amount of rainfall as compared to other months of the year, it is no wonder that June is called the “month of water”, or minazuki (水無月) in Japan. June is also commonly known as tsuyu (梅雨—the kanji can also be read as baiu).

What is Tsuyu?

Tsuyu literally means “plum rain” due to it coinciding with the season in which plum ripens, and this period denotes the rainy season in Japan, usually lasting from late May to early or mid-July, with the season peaking in June. 

This phenomenon occurs due to the collision between cold northernly winds blowing from the Sea of Okhotsk and the warm, humid southerly winds blowing from the Pacific Ocean, creating an updraft and resulting in increased rainfall across the Japanese archipelago.

As the monsoon season travels from the south to the north of Japan, Hokkaido remains largely untouched by the rain, making it the best place to travel in June. | Photo by PhotoAC

As the rain clouds responsible for the seasonal rain front travel from south to north across Japan, the rainy season occurs in the same direction. Therefore, the islands of Okinawa (沖縄) in the southernmost region of Japan are usually the first to experience the rainy season, typically about a month earlier than the main island, usually beginning around early May. 

Interestingly, Hokkaido (北海道), Japan’s northernmost prefecture, remains largely untouched by the rainy season since the rain clouds and seasonal rain fronts would have dissipated by the time they reach Hokkaido, making it an ideal destination during this time.

A typical gloomy day in Tokyo during the tsuyu season, with the sun rarely showing its face, covering the city in a dreary atmosphere. | Photo by PhotoAC

The beginning of the rainy season is known as tsuyuiri (梅雨入り), and the end of the rainy season is called tsuyuake (梅雨明け). The exact dates and duration of tsuyuiri and tsuyuake vary annually and regionally, but the rainy season typically lasts about one to one and a half months. Although it doesn’t rain every day during this period, the likelihood of rain is higher due to the persistent cloud cover, and bright sunny days are also less common. 

In Tokyo (東京), an average day during the rainy season in June might see temperatures reaching 26℃ in the day and 18℃ at night, meaning that while it can feel quite warm on sunny days, it can also feel rather chilly on rainy days due to temperature fluctuations.

So, be mindful of sudden temperature changes to prevent falling ill during your trip. During the day, a short-sleeved shirt may suffice in warm and possibly humid weather, but be prepared for sudden rain or temperature drops by bringing a light jacket or cardigan and, of course, a handy umbrella.

How Do You Spend The Rainy Season in Japan?

Given this, you might be pondering whether visiting Japan during this time is advisable. Good news! There are still plenty of attractions and activities to enjoy in Japan during the rainy season. In fact, here are four of my personal recommendations.

1. Visit the Mysterious Koyasan

Okunoin Cemetery in Koyasan exudes a mystical atmosphere as it is enshrouded in the dense fog during the rainy season. | Photo by PhotoAC

Nestled within a secluded, forested region of Wakayama Prefecture (和歌山県), Koyasan (高野山) is a tranquil mountaintop Buddhist community boasting over 100 temples and monasteries. It stands as one of Japan’s most enchanting and mystical destinations. Serving as the epicenter of the Shingon school of Buddhism (真言宗), founded in 819 by the renowned monk Kukai (空海), Koyasan retains its status as one of Japan’s most sacred sites. 

In the rainy season, Koyasan is enveloped in dense fog, enhancing the atmospheric allure of one of Japan’s historical marvels. This is particularly true for Okunoin Cemetery (奥の院), one of Japan’s holiest sites, where Kukai is entombed. Set amidst majestic cedar trees and encircled by moss-covered graves, the fog conjures a hauntingly picturesque ambiance, transporting visitors to an ethereal realm, making it one of the best places in Japan to visit this rainy season!

2. Delve into The Ancient Forest of Yakushima

The green hues of the Yakushima forest are made even more vivid in the rain. | Photo by PhotoAC

Yakushima (屋久島), an island located in Kagoshima Prefecture (鹿児島県) off the southern coast of Kyushu (九州), is renowned for its primeval rainforest, home to a vast cedar forest housing some of Japan’s oldest living trees. 

Referred to as yakusugi (屋久杉), these trees are over 1,000 years old, deriving their name from a combination of “Yakushima” and “sugi” (杉), the Japanese term for cedar, with the oldest estimated to be between 2,000 to 7,200 years old. Once subjected to logging, the forest is now transformed into a national park, with one-fifth of the island having been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. 

A must-see destination is Shiratani Unsuikyo (白谷雲水峡), the breathtaking locale that inspired the iconic Princess Mononoke (もののけ姫). Witness the rain cast a transient radiance on the moss-clad rocks, bringing the ancient forest alive before your very eyes.

3. Admire the Seasonal Blooms like Hydrangeas and Japanese Irises

At Unshoji Temple in Akita, one is greeted with a sea of blue hydrangeas. | Photo by PhotoAC

Just as cherry blossoms symbolise spring, hydrangeas, or ajisai (アジサイ) in Japanese, mark the arrival of the rainy season. Blossoming in early summer, their vibrant blue, pink, or snow-white hues, made even more vivid by the rain, brighten the damp and dreary days of the season. 

Across the nation, there are numerous renowned spots for admiring these beautiful flowers beloved by locals of all ages, with one of the most notable being Unshoji Temple (雲昌寺) in Akita Prefecture (秋田県).

Here, the temple’s head priest has meticulously nurtured hydrangeas for 15 years, transforming the entire temple into a sea of blue as 1,500 hydrangeas bloom during their peak season, creating a truly picturesque scene against the backdrop of the azure blue ocean surrounding Akita.

Hakusan Shrine boasts a stunning array of hydrangeas during the annual hydrangea festival. | Photo by PhotoAC

Another must-visit destination is Hakusan Shrine (白山神社) in Bunkyo Ward (文京区), Tokyo. Every year during June, the shrine hosts a remarkable hydrangea festival, boasting over 3,000 blooms in a stunning array of purple, blue and pink hues adorning both the shrine grounds and Hakusan Park (白山公園).

Here, amidst this breathtaking floral display, you can savor a tranquil respite from the bustling metropolitan pace, immersing yourself in the serene beauty of nature.

Over 6,000 stalks of Japanese irises bloom brilliantly, covering the entire garden of Horikiri Shobuen from late May to mid-June. | Photo by PhotoAC

Besides the hydrangea, another flower that blooms during the rainy season is the Japanese iris. This umbrella term encompasses three species: hanashobu (花菖蒲), kakitsubata (杜若), and ayame (菖蒲). 

Japanese irises, renowned for their elegance, have adorned Japanese ukiyo-e (浮世絵 Japanese woodblock prints) and poetry for centuries. Commonly grown for complementing traditional garden landscapes and adorning shrines and temples, these graceful flowers hold significant cultural importance in Japan, celebrated for their symbolic beauty. 

Like hydrangeas, they are often associated with the onset of summer. One of the spots for viewing the Japanese iris is the Horikiri Shobuen (堀切菖蒲園) in Katsushika Ward (葛飾区), Tokyo. 

From late May to mid-June, the entire garden bursts with brightly colored irises reminiscent of those depicted in the ukiyo-e paintings of Utagawa Hiroshige (歌川広重). Historically known for the meticulous cultivation of irises in its marshlands since the Edo Period, the garden boasts up to 6,000 stalks and over 200 varieties of irises, presenting a breathtaking spectacle during this season, with the petals glistening in the raindrops.

The Yokosuka Iris Garden features over a stunning 140,000 irises. | Photo by PhotoAC

Just next to Tokyo lies the Yokosuka Iris Garden (横須賀しょうぶ園) in Kanagawa Prefecture (神奈川県). This expansive garden is one of Japan’s largest, featuring over 140,000 irises spanning 412 varieties. It is a highly sought-after destination for photographers and floral enthusiasts alike during the summer season, as visitors flock to capture the stunning blooms, complemented by koto concerts held every Sunday from late May to late June.

4. Have a Taste of Minazuki, The Alternative to Shaved Ice

A traditional wagashi eaten on 30 June, the minazuki is believed to help ward off evil spirits. | Photo by PhotoAC

While you might now know that June is referred to as “minazuki”, did you know that there’s a wagashi (和菓子 Japanese confectionery) that goes by the same name? 

Originating from Kyoto (京都), the minazuki wagashi features a distinctive double-layered triangular shape, with a base made of uiro (外郎 white rice cake) and a top layer of sweet red bean paste. Traditionally, minazuki was consumed on 30 June to ward off evil spirits and mark the onset of summer.

Centuries ago, it was said that aristocrats in Kyoto would consume shaved ice in early summer as a prayer for good health during the scorching summer months, believing that by doing so will ensure a safe passage through the unbearable heat. As a result, ice blocks were transported all the way from the snowy region of Hokuriku (北陸) to Kyoto, rendering them a rare and costly commodity. 

Unable to afford such a luxury, commoners ingeniously devised a triangular-shaped sweet to mimic ice blocks, giving rise to the wagashi now known to us as minazuki, which is still enjoyed in Kyoto today. If you find yourself in Kyoto, be sure not to miss the chance to savor this unique delicacy!

Embrace the Rainy Season’s Charms!

Stay prepared with your rain gear and enjoy everything the rainy season in Japan has to offer! | Photo by PhotoAC

Whether you’re exploring the enchanting landscapes or losing yourself in Japan’s rain-kissed gardens during the tsuyu season, a wealth of unique experiences awaits. So, don’t allow a drizzle to dampen your spirits—embrace the season’s allure and delve into the captivating charm of Japan’s tsuyu, discovering yet another facet of the Land of the Rising Sun.

Stay Indoors with JAPAN RAIL CLUB

Don’t let the rain get “tsuyu”, as rainy days are also perfectly fine reasons for staying indoors. Why not enjoy Japanese snacks at the comforts of your home?

JAPAN RAIL CLUB by JR East offers a snack subscription plan for you to rediscover a delicious side of Japan through an assortment of seasonal and regional snacks every month. This June 2024, we present an exciting line-up of snacks from the prefecture of Yamagata with the “Yummy Yamagata” Omiyage Snack Box! Curated by local staff in the JR East Group, you can be sure to taste the best of Yamagata with snacks like PARIPARIｘSAKUSAKU Dondonyaki, Sakuranbo Kirara Jelly (さくらんぼきらら), and lots more!

Keen to kickstart your snacking journey with us? Subscribe by 30 June 2024 to enjoy a 12% discount when choosing a Snack Subscription Plan with the promo code “YUMMY12”. Happy snacking!