Mount Zao (蔵王山) is a volcanic mountain range in the Tohoku region, lying between the prefectures of Yamagata and Miyagi. It is highly popular for both local and foreign visitors throughout the year, whether it is summer or winter. Mount Zao can be seen at its best during spring at Hitome Senbonzakura (一目千本櫻) in Miyagi Prefecture, and it is a marvel to watch.
But here is a fun fact about Mount Zao: there are mainly two ways to access the mountain, and each way offers a unique experience. It is almost as if Mount Zao has two faces, each showcasing a different aspect of the same mountain. For this article, I will introduce to you both sides of Mount Zao and how to enjoy each of them!
Yamagata Prefecture: Zao Ropeway
Mount Zao is in between two prefectures, and one of them is Yamagata. Visitors can access the mountain from the Yamagata side, and with this access, they can visit Zao Onsen Ski Resort, a hidden gem right inside the mountain! Better yet, since Mount Zao is a volcano, it means there is plenty of sulphur and that means hot spring! The mountain is home to one of the best hot springs in the region, and Zao Onsen Ski Resort boasts a large open-air bath right in the heart of nature!
Personally, I have heard of Mount Zao and I have also visited Yamagata before―11 years ago during a volunteer program―but I never got the chance to visit the mountain. Back in February, right in the heart of winter, I got to visit it and strike the mountain off my list once and for all.
Visitors coming from the Yamagata side can experience Zao Ropeway starting from Zao Sanroku station, which is at the foot of the mountain. Visitors can take a cable car up the mountain to Juhyo Kogen Station, or all the way up to Jizo Sancho Station.
Mount Zao is popular among winter lovers because it has a multitude of mountain slopes for everyone, from beginners to advanced. Better yet, visitors can come empty-handed as rental equipment―from snowboards and skis, to snow gear and winter wear―are readily available. They can even sign up for ski lessons on the spot since there are many schools at their disposal, which is especially helpful for beginners.
Although Mount Zao is mostly popular during the winter season because of its plentiful mountain slopes, it is open throughout the year during other seasons as well. It is also highly popular during the summer and autumn, dubbed ‘Green Season’, where visitors can go for trekking. There are many routes to take for different types of trekkers, from the beginner to the advanced.
Additionally, visitors can also opt for the Zao Echo Line, where visitors can drive from Miyagi to Yamagata through a 26km-long picturesque mountainous route and enjoy the scenery along the way. Gigantic snow walls can be seen from the end of April to mid-May, beautiful greenery in early summer, and autumn foliage during autumn. Take note that this route is closed only during winter because of snowfall.
Also, visitors visiting Mount Zao during the green season will be able to see Okama Crater (御釜), a beautiful emerald-green lake basin sitting on top of the mountain. This is definitely the jewel of the mountain, and is not to be missed!
I took the cable car up to Juhyo-Kogen Station, which is the end station of the Zao Ropeway Sanroku Line. I was particularly excited to go up this route because I was looking forward to a phenomenon known as snow monsters (樹氷 juhyō). Snow monsters are trees covered in frost during winter, when water droplets in the air blown by strong winds freeze on the leaves and branches of evergreen pine trees, slowly morphing them into huge towering shapes. This requires special weather conditions that are common in Japan, especially in the Tohoku region such as Mount Zao. Even better, there is a light-up at night shone on these snow monsters, and a Zao Juhyō Festival too!
Unfortunately, I did not get to see the snow monsters. There was a blizzard when I went up Mount Zao, and the strong winds prevented frost from forming on the trees. Nevertheless, we got to enjoy winter at its fullest!
Winter (or a blizzard) is something I can never get to enjoy back home, and though I did not get to see snow monsters, I had a good time playing in the snow. It is a novel experience, and I hope many others like myself who have never been to Mount Zao, will get to do so. It is a fun experience unlike any other!
Zao Ropeway (蔵王ロープウェイ)
Address: 229-3 Zaoonsen, Yamagata, 990-2301
Access: 45-minute bus ride from JR Yamagata Station (JR山形駅).
Miyagi Prefecture: Miyagi Zao Sumikawa Snow Park (宮城蔵王すみかわスノーパーク)
Mount Zao is a mountain with two faces, and one of them faces Yamagata on the northern side. Visitors coming from the Miyagi prefecture side have a surprise in store for them: Miyagi Zao Sumikawa Snow Park! Here, visitors can also go up Mount Zao but from the southern side instead! I was lucky enough to visit Mount Zao not once but twice back-to-back, and I could not wait to see what Sumikawa Snow Park has in store for me!
Sumikawa Snow Park offers a novel experience of going up Mount Zao by snowcat, which is a modified snowmobile that can carry up to 20 passengers at a time. The journey from the snow park to Mount Zao and back takes around two hours, and the ride can be rough for those with weak stomachs, so be mentally prepared before riding up the snowcat! Plus, visitors can also rent snow boots in the rest area, which is necessary since the snow on the mountain is thick and deep.
As visitors make their gradual journey up the mountain on the snowcat, they can view the outside slowly changing. They can see beautiful mountainous landscapes afar, and other skiers enjoying outside as they make way for the snow cats to pass through.
What I learned about this trip is that, on a good day, visitors should be able to see snow monsters as well! Just like Zao Ropeway, snow monsters are a common phenomenon on Mount Zao whether you are coming from Yamagata side or Miyagi side, and if the weather, visitors can witness and even physically come close to them for a full view. Unfortunately, for my time, it was a complete whiteout and the winds were really strong, so snow monsters could not be formed.
Just when I thought the fun part was over after we got back to the park, another surprise awaited me at the rest area. Visitors can have their meals here after a trip on the snowcat, from a hot beverage to even ramen. I tried out their special menu which is beef curry. Not only was it great, it even looked amazing!
As much as I enjoyed this side of Mount Zao, I still did not get to see every side of it. Like the Yamagata side of the mountain where Zao Onsen Ski Resort and plentiful hot springs lie, on the Miyagi side, there is also Togatta Onsen (遠刈田溫泉), which features hot springs that are quaint and charming. Visitors with more time on their hands should make a detour here; this is especially recommended for those going for winter activities up the mountain, or driving along the Zao Echo Line!
Riding a snowcat during winter was a novel experience for me, and so was experiencing a complete whiteout on Mount Zao. I never thought that I could go up the mountain from two different sides, and experience something fun and unique from each of them. I highly recommend winter lovers to visit Sumikawa Snow Park; it was a serendipitous journey for me!
Miyagi Zao Sumikawa Snow Park (宮城蔵王すみかわスノーパーク)
Address: Kuraishidakekokuyuchinai Togattaonsen, Zaō, Katta-gun, Miyagi 989-0916
Access: 30-minute bus ride from JR Sendai Station (JR仙台駅).
JR 東日本鐵路周遊券（東北地區）
The JR 東日本鐵路周遊券（東北地區） is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area for 5 consecutive days. It’s only ¥30,000, making it a considerable option for rail travellers. Pass holders can also reserve seats online for up to a month in advance for free on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
Header image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang
