Japan’s culture and history stretches back thousands of years ago. From as far as the Jomon Period (縄文時代) to the current Reiwa Period (令和時代) that began on 1 May last year, the country has undergone major upheavals in culture and tradition. Buddhism has an important long history in the country, For this article, I will cover some of the Tohoku Region’s most prominent ones.
Yamagata Prefecture: Yamadera (山寺)
Translated as “Mountain Shape”, Yamagata Prefecture (山形県) is known for the mountainous ranges that surround all the bordering prefectures, namely Niigata and Fukushima to the south, Miyagi to the east, and Akita to the north. It is famous for its pristine and spectacular natural scenery. When in Yamagata, visitors must check out Yamadera (山寺), which means “Mountain Temple”. It is named after the temple of Risshaku-ji (立石寺), and was founded by Jikaku Daishi (慈覺大師) during the Heian Period.
Yamadera stands out from other temples for several reasons. For one, it lays perched on top of a mountain, and visitors must brave the thousand-step climb through the dense cedar tree forest to reach it. Not all visitors can climb all the steps, but those who did have claimed that the impressive view from the top is worth the laborious climb!
Visitors climbing up the steps will see unique structures along the mountain slopes, and appreciate the architecture of the main halls once reaching the top. The best part awaits at the top, where the halls offer a spectacular view of the town below.
Yamadera was officially designated as a Historic Site (史跡) and Place of Scenic Beauty (名勝). The site is also known for the sounds of cicadas crying—an iconic seasonal sound of summer—and thanks to that, Yamadera was also chosen as one of the 100 Soundscapes of Japan (日本の音風景百選), a list compiled by the Ministry of the Environment to promote environmental conservation and combat noise pollution.
Most visitors to Yamadera will be making their trip via train at the JR Yamadera Station (JR山寺駅), and when they reach the station, they can also make a short detour to the nearby Fuga no Kuni (風雅の国). It is a complex that includes the Yamadera Basho Memorial Museum (山寺芭蕉記念館) that focuses on Matsuo Bashō (松尾芭蕉), a well-known haiku poet who penned a famous poem in 1689 as well as created many writings and paintings. He wrote the timeless haiku below that perfectly captures the image of being inside the silent Risshaku-ji and hearing only the cicadas’ cries:
静けさや 岩にしみ入る 蝉の声 (shizukesaya / iwa ni shimi iru / semi no koe)
(trans. “Ah this stillness / as a voices of the cicadas / seep into the rocks.”)
Yamadera (山寺)
Address: 4456-1 Yamadera, Yamagata 999-3301
Access: 5-minute walk from JR Yamadera Station (JR山寺駅)
Iwate Prefecture: Chusonji Temple (中尊寺) & Motsuji Temple (毛越寺)
Iwate Prefecture (岩手県) is home to several prominent temples, but one outshines the rest: Chusonji Temple (中尊寺), located in the town of Hiraizumi (平泉). Founded in the 9th century, the temple plays a significant role in the country’s feudal history and was designated a Special Historic Site (特別史跡) by the Agency of Cultural Affairs in 1979. The pride of Chusonji Temple is the Konjikido (金色堂), a grand hall covered in gold leaf, just like the world-famous Kinkakuji in Kyoto.
NOTE: the reuse and / or reproduction of this image is strictly prohibited.
Although Chusonji Temple was designated as a historical site as early as the late seventies, in 2011 it gained much more recognition when it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site as a part of the “Historic Monuments and Sites of Hiraizumi”. In fact, it’s the only cultural heritage site in Tohoku recognised by UNESCO.
Another temple to check out is Motsuji Temple (毛越寺), carrying as much historical significance as Chusonji Temple. It was also designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011 and also one of the Special Places of Scene Beauty (特別名勝) by the Ministry of Cultural Affairs. The best part about this temple? A tranquil Jōdo (Pure Land Buddhist) garden surrounding the temple, carefully preserved to this day and is visually stunning during autumn.
Visitors should check out the Winding Stream Festival (曲水の宴 Gokusui-no-En), an annual historical event held every May. It is a traditional poetry ceremony originating from the Heian Period, and it is conducted in many places throughout Japan. However, many claim that the one at the garden surrounding Motsuji Temple is the most surreal.
A clip of the Winding Stream Festival near Motsuji Temple. (Video credit: iwatabien)
Chusonji Temple (中尊寺)
Address: 202-Koromonoseki, Hiraizumi, Nishiiwai-gun, Iwate 029-4195
Access: 5-minute bus ride from JR Hiraizumi Station (JR平泉駅)
Motsuji Temple (毛越寺)
Address: 58-Osawa Hiraizumi, Nishiiwai-gun, Iwate 029-4102
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Hiraizumi Station (JR平泉駅)
Miyagi Prefecture: Zuiganji Temple (瑞巌寺)
Among the many things that Miyagi Prefecture (宮城県) is famous for, there is one thing many people might not be aware of. It is also home to Zuiganji Temple (瑞巌寺), located in the idyllic port town of Matsushima (松島町), and it has a long and related history with the other temples in this article.
Zuiganji Temple is a Rinzai Zen (臨済禅) Buddhist temple that belongs to a branch of Myōshin-ji (妙心寺), the head temple of Rinzai Zen Buddhism in Kyoto. It was founded in 828 during the Heian Period, by none other than Jikaku Daishi, the same Buddhist priest behind Yamadera; and patronised by the Northern Fujiwara clan, the same one who ruled Yamagata in ancient times.
The temple was originally part of the Tendai sect, but during the Kamakura Period (1185–1333), the temple was converted to Zen. In the Edo Period (1603–1868), the temple was rebuilt by Lord Date Masamune (伊達政宗), and his clan supported it until the Meiji Restoration (明治維新). One trivia about the temple: Matsuo Bashō, the same haiku poet who contributed writings and poems while at Yamadera, also wrote a tribute to the golden walls inside the temple.
The temple also has some rock caves in the area, and these caves were used for memorial services and as a place to house the ashes of the deceased. They were built during the Kamakura Period and was in use until the Edo Period.
Zuiganji Temple (瑞巌寺)
Address: 91-Chonai Matsushima, Miyagi-gun, Miyagi 981-0213
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Matsushimakaigan Station (JR松島海岸駅)
People visiting the temple are in for a bonus treat: Matsushima is also home to the famous Matsushima Bay (松島湾), which is coveted as one of Japan’s Three Scenic Views (日本三景 Nihon-sankei) alongside Miyajima in Hiroshima and Amanohashidate in Kyoto. This is one of the main reasons people from all over the world flock to the sleepy town of Matsushima, and visitors can enjoy both the historical and natural side of the town in a single trip.
Closing
Visiting temples in the region is a good way to learn more about the Tohoku Region’s past, and it’s encouraging to see that more people, regardless of their own personal and religious beliefs, are becoming more open-minded to learn more about other cultures. I’m also always interested to know more about the region’s past, and implore others to explore when they plan their next trip to the region.
JR 東日本鐵路周遊券（東北地區）
The JR 東日本鐵路周遊券（東北地區） is an affordable pass that offers unlimited train rides on JR East lines, including bullet trains, within the valid area for 5 consecutive days. It’s only ¥30,000, making it a considerable option for rail travellers. Pass holders can also reserve seats online for up to a month in advance for free on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
The JR-EAST Train Reservation. | ©JR East
Header image credit: Yamagata Prefecture
