Time Travel Through Japan: Exploring 5 Historic Edo Towns

Spanning approximately 400 years from the early 17th to the mid-19th century, the Edo Period (江戸時代) (1603–1868) is a significant era in Japanese history. 

Initiated by Tokugawa Ieyasu’s formation of the Tokugawa Shogunate, this era succeeded the chaotic Sengoku Period and ushered in a prolonged age of peace and stability, spurring significant economic expansion, cultural advancements, and growth in commerce and agriculture. 

Japan’s Golden Age: The emergence of post towns in the Edo Period

“Asakusa Kamimarimon Mae (Kameya)” by Utagawa Hiroshige, an ukiyo-e (woodblock painting) from the Edo Period. | ©Picryl / CC0 

During this time, Edo (江戸)—present-day Tokyo (東京)—emerged as a vibrant centre of culture. The shogunate’s system of samurai rule, in collaboration with regional feudal lords, solidified its control and fostered the principles of bushido (武士道) and a thriving cultural scene. 

Not only was it an era of peace and prosperity, the Edo Period was also defined by the emergence of ukiyo-e (浮世絵 woodblock painting), kabuki (歌舞伎), and haiku (俳句), leaving a lasting impact on Japanese arts and culture.

It was also during this period that post towns emerged throughout Japan. Typically located along major routes connecting Edo and other key cities, these post towns served as crucial resting and lodging spots for travellers, who were journeying on foot or by horse, to stock up on supplies and for merchants to carry out trade. 

In this article, we’ll travel back in time and experience this prosperous and peaceful era by visiting five historic towns that have retained the vestiges of the Edo Period.

1. Ouchijuku (大内宿), Fukushima Prefecture

Thatched-roof houses of Ouchi-juku covered in snow during winter. | ©PhotoAC 

Nestled in Fukushima Prefecture (福島県), Ouchijuku (大内宿) is a historic post town first established around 1640 and is renowned for its 300-year-old thatched-roof houses, which have been remarkably preserved since the Edo Period. 

Originally a crucial stop along the Aizu-Nishi Kaido (会津西街道), a 130km trade route linking Aizu’s castle town to Nikko in what is now Tochigi Prefecture, Ouchijuku had flourished as a transportation hub since the Kamakura Period. It served a variety of travellers, including samurai from the Aizu and Shibata clans, as well as merchants and performers. 

However, with Japan’s modernization following the Meiji Restoration (明治維新) and the construction of a new national route, Ouchijuku gradually lost its role as a post town. This delay in modernization in the area, however, allowed the town to retain much of its Edo-charm.

Negi soba, an Aizu dish symbolising good luck. | ©PhotoAC

In 1981, the unique townscape of Ouchijuku was designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, ensuring the conservation of this historically significant Edo town, with roof re-thatching mainly carried out by skilled local craftsmen known as kayate (茅手). Today, over 30 of the thatched-roof houses have been restored and repurposed as restaurants, souvenir shops, and guesthouses, attracting an endless stream of tourists throughout the year. 

Visitors can explore the Ouchijuku Honjin Ruins (大内宿本陣跡), where they can step back in time by touring traditional housing interiors, including rooms that once accommodated lords and their retainers. The site also features rare historical artefacts, such as old farming tools and daily necessities that are seldom seen today.

A visit to Ouchijuku isn’t complete without trying the local specialty, negi soba (ねぎそば). This unique Aizu dish is served with a whole leek, which is used as chopsticks. Traditionally associated with good luck, negi soba was served at celebrations and as gifts to the Tokugawa Shogunate. Today, it remains a symbol of the town’s rich cultural heritage.

Ouchijuku (大内宿)
Address: Ouchi, Shimogo, Minamiaizu District, Fukushima 969-5207
Access: 20-minute bus ride from Aizu Railway Yunokami Onsen Station (湯野上温泉駅)

2. Kawagoe (川越), Saitama Prefecture

Traditional storehouses line the Ichibangai. | ©PhotoAC

Kawagoe (川越), known as “Little Edo” (小江戸), is celebrated for its well preserved Edo Period-ambiance, highlighted by rows of historic storehouses showcasing its deep connection to the Tokugawa Shogunate. 

Established as a domain by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1590, Kawagoe saw significant development under Matsudaira Nobutsuna, who expanded Kawagoe Castle and the surrounding castle town. By developing the Shingashi River (新河岸川) and constructing the Kawagoe Kaido (川越街道), Nobutsuna forged strong connections with Edo, allowing Edo’s culture, scholarship, and performing arts to flourish in Kawagoe.

As commerce thrived, Kawagoe emerged as a key distribution hub for agricultural produce and local specialties, earning it the nickname “Edo’s Kitchen”. The Shingashi River became a crucial transportation route, enabling the town to grow as a bustling merchant centre. 

By the late 18th century, Kawagoe’s sweet potatoes had become a popular delicacy in Edo, establishing the town as a renowned production area for sweet potato-based confections—a reputation that continues to this day.

The Bell of Time, a symbol of Kawagoe which has been marking time since the start of the Edo Period. | ©PhotoAC

Having escaped wartime destruction, Kawagoe’s historical layout, including merchant, artisan, temple, and samurai districts, remains largely intact and remarkably well preserved. 

A must-visit is Ichibangai (一番街), a 400m stretch lined with over 30 traditional storehouse-style buildings featuring black plastered walls and tiled roofs, a fire-resistant design that became popular after the numerous major fires experienced by the town. This street not only offers a window into Kawagoe’s past but also provides a delightful walking experience, with a variety of restaurants and local delicacies to enjoy.

Among Kawagoe’s iconic landmarks is the “Bell of Time” (時の鐘 Toki no Kane), a bell tower that has served as the town’s timekeeper since the beginning of the Edo Period. First constructed about 400 years ago by the ruling lord Sakai Tadakatsu, the bell tower has been rebuilt several times after being destroyed by fires. 

In 1996, the bell’s melodious chime was honoured as one of Japan’s “100 Soundscapes to Be Preserved” by Japan’s Ministry of the Environment. Even today, the bell rings through the town four times a day, continuing a tradition that has endured for centuries.

Bell of Time (時の鐘)
Address: 15-7 Saiwaicho, Kawagoe, Saitama 350-0063
Access: 15-minute walk from Hon-Kawagoe Station (本川越駅) / 25-minute walk from Kawagoe Station (川越駅)

3. Gujo Hachiman (郡上八幡), Gifu Prefecture

Also known as the “castle town of water”, Gujo Hachiman boasts its pristine streams and riverside homes. | ©PhotoAC

Gujo Hachiman (郡上八幡), situated upstream of the Nagara River (長良川), is a town known for its rich history and strong connection to water.

Overlooked by Gujo Hachiman Castle (郡上八幡城), the town had been extensively renovated by the 6th lord, Endo Tsunetomo, after a devastating fire. These renovations, including the construction of irrigation channels, transformed Gujo Hachiman into a fire-resistant “castle town of water”.

As visitors explore the town’s historic districts, such as Shokuninmachi (職人町) and Kajiyamachi (鍛冶屋町), they are transported back to the Edo Period. These districts, now designated as Important Preservation Districts for Traditional Buildings, feature an old townscape with narrow-fronted, deep houses known as “eel’s beds” (うなぎの寝床), reminiscent of those in Kyoto. 

A household register from 1692 reveals that these areas once housed around 50 residences, home to various craftsmen and merchants, providing a glimpse into the everyday lives of commoners during that time.

Yanagimachi, a former samurai district. | ©PhotoAC

Another district to visit is Yanagimachi (柳町), a former samurai district, characterised by its sode-kabe (袖壁 winged wall) between houses, designed to support eaves, deter crime, and prevent the spread of fires. 

Fire prevention was a central concern, reflected in the canals that run alongside the streets and under the eaves of houses, constructed by Tsunetomo around 1660. These waterways, fed by abundant spring water, not only served as fire prevention but also became integral to daily life.

Recognised as one of Japan’s “100 Water Towns”, Gujo Hachiman offers a unique experience where humans and nature harmoniously coexist. As you stroll through the town, with its pristine streams and riverside homes, you can fully appreciate the seamless blend of history, architecture, and the environment in this quaint Edo town.

Gujo Hachiman Castle (郡上八幡城)
Address: 659 Ichinohe, Hachimancho Yanagimachi, Gujo, Gifu 501-4214
Access: 40-minute walk from Gujo Hachiman Station (郡上八幡駅)

4. Magome-juku (馬籠宿), Gifu Prefecture

Located along the Nakasendo, Magome-juku is the 43rd post town renowned for its stone-paved slopes characteristic of the Edo Period. | ©PhotoAC

Magome (馬籠), located in Nakatsugawa City (中津川市), Gifu Prefecture, lies at the southern edge of the Central Southern Alps, and is known for its rural landscapes of rice fields and forests, as well as its connection to the Nakasendo (中山道), a 530km historic route consisting of 69 post towns, linking Edo to Kyoto (京都), established during the early Edo Period. 

At the heart of this region is Magome-juku (馬籠宿), the 43rd post town on the Nakasendo, famed for its 600m stretch of stone-paved slopes that evoke the charm of the Edo Period. Lined with tea houses and souvenir shops on both sides of the slope, the town offers a nostalgic glimpse into Japan’s past.

Magome-juku is also notable as the birthplace of the modern Japanese writer Shimazaki Toson, with various sites dedicated to his legacy, including the Toson Memorial Hall (藤村記念館). The town’s appeal is further enhanced by its culinary offerings, featuring a variety of local delicacies such as freshly baked rice crackers, oyaki (おやき), and gohei mochi (五平餅), which can be savoured at the traditional shops that line the historic streets.

Magome-juku’s famous waterwheel, now used as a hydroelectric generator. | ©PhotoAC

A distinctive aspect of Magome-juku is its large waterwheel, positioned at the second masugata (枡形)—a strategic 90-degree bend in the road designed to thwart enemy invasions—from the town’s entrance. This waterwheel is still operational today, serving as a hydroelectric generator that powers the wheel’s illumination, as well as indoor lighting, night lights, and displays.

Surrounded by the natural beauty of the region, Magome-juku makes for the perfect location to experience Japan’s stunning landscapes while soaking in the traditional ambiance of an Edo Period town steeped in rich history. For those who like to hike, the neighbouring post town, Tsumago-juku (妻籠宿), is an 8km walk from Magome-juku, typically taking 2–3 hours at a relaxed pace, making it a popular and accessible route. 

Magome-juke (馬籠宿)
Address: Magome, Nakatsugawa, Gifu 508-0502
Access: 40-minute bus ride from Nakatsugawa Station or Nagiso Station, alight at Magome Bus Stop (馬籠). Alternatively, it is a 2-hour trek from Nakatsugawa Station or 3 hours from Nagiso Station. These two stations are popular starting points for the Nakasendo trail.

5. Sekijuku (関宿), Mie Prefecture

Townscape of Sekijuku, one of the post towns situated on the Tokaido Road. | ©Adobe Stock

Sekijuku (関宿), the 47th post town on the historic Tokaido Road (東海道), preserves the vestiges of the Edo Period with approximately 200 townhouses from the Edo to Meiji Period (1868–1912) lining its 1.8km stretch. 

This remarkably preserved area has been recognised as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings and is listed among Japan’s “100 Best Roads”. During the Edo Period, Sekijuku thrived as a bustling stopover for commoners and samurai on non-official business, often en route to Edo for alternate attendance or pilgrimages to Ise Shrine (伊勢神宮). 

Today, while the world around it rapidly evolves, Sekijuku offers a serene window into the past, where time seems to move at a gentler pace, and historic structures continue to blend harmoniously with the lives of its modern inhabitants.

The Seki Machinami Museum, one of the representative townhouses that exhibits traditional household items used during the Edo Period. | ©PhotoAC

For visitors to Sekijuku, a great starting point is the second floor of Chokantei (眺関亭) in Hyakurokuri Garden (百六里庭), where a sweeping view of the town offers an experience akin to time traveling back to the Edo Period. The Seki Machinami Museum (関まちなみ資料館), together with the Seki-juku Hatago Tamaya Historical Museum (関宿旅籠玉屋歴史資料館), is another essential stop, providing a fascinating look into Edo Period-life through its showcase of a townhouse with original features, including a mezzanine, cage-style windows, and traditional household items. 

While most post towns on the Tokaido Road, as depicted in Utagawa Hiroshige’s ukiyo-e print “The Fifty-Three Stations of the Tokaido”, have been modernised, Sekijuku has remained largely unchanged due to the development of National Route 1, which bypassed the town, preserving its historic character. 

As a result, Sekijuku stands out as the only post town on the Tokaido Road officially recognised as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. Stretching 1.8km from east to west, the Sekijuku post town also employs a unique directional system, with signs in kanji pointing towards Edo, while signs in kana direct towards Kyoto. 

Discover Japan’s timeless legacy through its post towns

Experience a journey back in time as you explore these Edo towns. | ©PhotoAC

Exploring the Edo towns of Japan offers a captivating journey through history, where the charm of the past seamlessly blends with the present. Each location, with its unique architecture, historical landmarks, and vibrant local traditions, invites visitors to step back in time and experience the rich heritage of Japan.

As you wander through these time-honoured streets, you not only gain insight into Japan’s past but also discover the enduring beauty of its cultural legacy. 

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