Inspired by Izu: Exploring Izu Peninsula Through The Eyes of Japanese Writers

If you are a fan of Japanese literature, take a walk in the footsteps of literary giants and look no further than Izu Peninsula (伊豆半島), which lies just about 1-2 hours away from Tokyo (東京) by train.

Famous for its hot spring resorts, this region has long been a popular destination for those seeking refuge from Japan’s harsh winters, and is beloved by countless renowned literary figures such as Shoyo Tsubouchi (坪内逍遥), Soseki Natsume (夏目漱石), Ryunosuke Akutagawa (芥川龍之介), Osamu Dazai (太宰治), Yukio Mishima (三島由紀夫), Junichiro Tanizaki (谷崎潤一郎), and Yasunari Kawabata (川端康成) amongst many others. 

Some of them arrive seeking solace in the tranquil embrace of nature, surrounded by the aroma of steaming hot springs, set against a backdrop of ever-changing mountains that mirror the shifting seasons. This is definitely an area that you wouldn’t want to miss out on if you’re a literature nerd like me! Here, we’ll explore the iconic sites within the Izu Peninsula that were not only frequented by these renowned authors, but also served as sources of inspiration for their masterpieces.

For enthusiasts of Japanese literature, let’s trace the paths of these literary giants and immerse ourselves in the restorative wonders that the Izu Peninsula holds in store!

1. Kiunkaku, Atami

Kiunkaku, a Japanese inn that had been loved by literary giants across the nation | Photo by Sue Lynn

Located in Atami (熱海), a seaside city lying on the northeastern corner of Izu Peninsula, Kiunkaku (起雲閣) is the sole remnant of Atami’s three great villas, alongside Iwasaki Villa and Sumitomo Villa. Kiunkaku was originally built in 1919 during the Taisho Period (大正時代) as a private villa by businessman Shinya Uchida (内田信也). Following the war, it underwent a transformation into one of Atami’s most renowned inns, hosting numerous distinguished literary figures of the era, such as Naoya Shiga (志賀直哉), Junichiro Tanizaki, Yuzo Yumamoto (山本有三), Yukio Mishima, Funahashi Seiichi (舟橋聖一), Taijun Takeda (武田泰淳), and Osamu Dazai. Having welcomed such an esteemed list of celebrated authors from across the nation, this is a spot that you absolutely cannot miss!

The building itself reflects a harmonious fusion of traditional Japanese architecture and Western influences that were prevalent during that period, allowing visitors lose themselves in the enchanting ambience of the Taisho and Showa periods (昭和時代) that remains in this refined space where time appears to have come to a standstill. The compound also features the vast Ikeizumi Kaiyushiki Garden (池泉回遊式庭園), boasting a central pond encircled by artificial hills, bridges and stones. Here, visitors can delight in leisurely strolls regardless of the seasons.

Taiho, a traditional Japanese room that had hosted the famous author Osamu Dazai, who had penned his work of tragedy, “No Longer Human”, in this very precinct | Photo by Sue Lynn

Ascending to the second floor of the Japanese-style building, you will be greeted by “Taiho” (大鳳), a tatami room famous for having hosted the acclaimed author Osamu Dazai during the creation of his masterpiece “No Longer Human” (人間失格), which Dazai composed in the company of Tomie Yamazaki (山崎富江), one of his mistresses. The well-illuminated room boasts exquisite purple walls that were apparently repainted during the inn’s reopening. From the room, visitors can enjoy a picturesque view of the Japanese garden through the elegant Taisho glass (大正硝子) window, each pane meticulously handcrafted by skilled craftsmen.

Tamahime, an architectural wonder that had created a harmonious fusion amongst Japanese, Chinese and Western influences | Photo by Dawn Sim

Entering Kiunkaku’s western-style building, “Tamahime” (玉姫), completed in 1932, feels like stepping into an entirely different dimension altogether. It features a European-style fireplace, dining table, and hanging chandelier, while seamlessly blending elements of both Japanese and European architectural styles, exemplified by the coved ceiling (折上格天井 Oriage goutenjou).

Kiunkaku also boasts a Roman-style bathroom (ローマ風浴室), adorned with a grand stained-glass window and tiles harmonized in shades of white and pink, infusing the space with a nostalgic ambiance. 

Bungo no Ma: Hatsushimo, one of the exhibition rooms showcasing the legacies of the authors that have stayed in Kiunkaku | Photo by Sue Lynn

In “Bungo no Ma: Hatsushimo” (文豪の間・初霜), you will find an exhibition space showcasing the literary legacies of various renowned authors, as well as panels featuring the biographies of notable writers such as Yukio Mishima, Seiichi Funahashi, and Taijun Takeda, along with their connections to Kiunkaku. Adjacent to this room are two additional exhibition spaces: “Ozaki Kouyo no Ma: Harukaze” (尾崎紅葉の間・春風) and “Tsubouchi Shoyo no Ma: Matsukaze” (坪内逍遥の間・松風), so make sure to check those out too!

Having hosted countless literary giants for over 50 years, Kiunkaku was officially designated as a cultural property of Atami City in 2002 and continues to welcome many visitors as a cultural and tourism hub for the city.

Kiunkaku (起雲閣)
Address: 4-2 Showacho, Atami, Shizuoka 413-0022
Access: 20-minute walk from Atami Station (熱海駅) or take the Izuhakone (伊豆箱根バス) bus from Atami Station and alight approximately 10 minutes later at Kiunkaku-mae (起雲閣前) bus stop

2. Soushisha, Atami

A former residence of Shoyo Tsubouchi | Photo by Photolibrary

A mere 10-minute stroll from Kiunkaku will bring you before Soushisha (双柿舎), the former residence of Shoyo Tsubouchi (坪内逍遥), a literary giant of the Meiji Period (明治時代), where he resided from 1920 until his passing in 1935. He first began frequenting Atami when he accompanied his eldest brother, who was recuperating from an illness, during his student days. Prior to establishing Soushisha, Tsubouchi set up a villa in the area of Arajuku (荒宿) of Atami, now known as Ginza-cho (銀座町), where he dedicated himself to translating Shakespeare’s plays and crafting his own works including, “Nagori no Hoshi Tsukiyo” (名残の星月夜) and “Yoshitoki no Saigo” (義時の最後).

As Atami flourished, the once serene Arajuku area gradually transformed into a bustling district. In 1919, seeking tranquility, Tsubouchi built a new refuge in Minakuchi Village (水口村) and named it “Soushisha”, derived from the two persimmon trees on the premise that are reputed to be 300 years old. 

Tsubouchi personally meticulously designed both the garden and building, reflecting his keen attention to detail and artistic vision. The bookroom, “Shoyo Shoya” (逍遥書屋), completed in 1928, is the culmination of painstaking efforts, boasting a stunning landscape that seamlessly integrates Japanese, Chinese, and Western architectural styles into a harmonious whole. Atop the tower sits a jade weathervane, inspired by Shakespeare’s King Lear. In addition to the tower-shaped bookroom, there are other highlights within the residence, including the plague on the gate inscribed by Yaichi Aizu (會津八一), a student of Tsubouchi. 

Soushisha (双柿舎)
Address: 11-17, Minaguchicho, Atami-shi, Shizuoka 413-0016
Access: 5-minute walk from Kinomiya Station (来宮駅)

3. Statue of Kanichi & Omiya and The Pine of Omiya, Atami

Statue of Kanichi and Omiya, depicting the farewell scene from the novel “The Golden Demon” by Koyou Ozaki | Photo by PhotoAC

Among the myriad of artists who have draw inspiration from the Izu Peninsula, few have left a legacy as enduring as Kouyo Ozaki (尾崎紅葉) and his masterpiece “The Golden Demon” (金色夜叉), which had been serialized in Japanese newspaper Yomiuri Shimbun for six years starting in 1899. Just along National Route 135, flanked by hot spring inns and hotels, stands a bronze statue depicting the poignant farewell scene between characters Kanichi and Omiya.

In the novel, Kanichi and Omiya’s engagement were called off when Omiya, tempted by a diamond ring, ended up marrying the affluent Yuitsugu Toyama (富山唯継). This symbolic scene captures Kanichi’s seething rage as he confronts Omiya by the coast, vowing revenge, perfectly encapsulating the sorrowful love between the two, who have grown apart under the harsh conditions of their time. 

A literary luminary of the Meiji Period, alongside Ogai Mori (森鴎外), Kouyo Ozaki unfortunately passed away before completing his novel. However, “The Golden Demon” garnered dervent support from readers across Japan, and much like the enduring appeal of the story, the coast of Atami continues to captivate people’s hearts to this day. 

The Pine of Omiya, situated next to the bronze statue of Kanichi and Omiya. (Image credit: PhotoAC)

Just beside the bronze statue stands a magnificent pine, originally known as “Hagoromo no Matsu” (羽衣の松). However, after Fuha Oguri (小栗風葉), one of Ozaki’s students, erected a monument inscribed with a haiku from “The Golden Demon” next to the pine, it become affectionately known as “The Pine of Omiya” (お宮の松). 

The bronze statue of Kanichi and Omiya, as well as The Pine of Omiya have now become popular destinations for sightseeing and as photo spots. These landmarks stand as a testament to the profound influence of Atami on creative minds, perpetuating its legacy as a source of inspiration. 

Statue of Kanichi and Omiya/The Pine of Omiya (貫一・お宮の像・お宮の松)
Address: 15-45, Higashikaigancho, Atami-shi, Shizuoka 413-0012
Access: 12-minute walk from Kinomiya Station (熱海駅)

4. Yumotokan, Yugashima

Calligraphy written by Yasunari Kawabata himself, framed and preserved in Yumotokan | Photo by mari (CC BY 2.0 DEED)

Calling it his second home, Yumotokan (湯本館), located in Yugashima (湯ヶ島) was the beloved inn of Yasunari Kawabata (川端康成), the Nobel Prize-winning author of famous works including “The Dancing Girl of Izu” or “The Izu Dancer” (伊豆の踊子), “Snow Country” (雪国), and “The Sound of the Mountain” (山の音). He was said to have spent extended periods of time in Yugashima between 1924 and 1927, during which he penned “Memories from Yugashima” (湯ヶ島での思い出) which served as a preliminary draft of “The Izu Dancer”. This masterpiece was in fact crafted from Kawabata’s personal experience during a solitary sightseeing trip to Izu, where he was inspired by a travelling entertainer with a dancer whom he met.

Nestled along the banks of the Kano River (狩野川), the inn preserves its original charm, along with the room where Kawabata had stayed, known as “Kawabata-san” (川端さん), which has also been preserved in its original state, maintaining the same atmosphere it had during his time there. The lobby of Yumotokan resembles a memorial museum, adorned with paintings and materials related to “The Izu Dancer”.

To delve deeper into the experience, you can also reserve the “Yasunari Manju” (康成饅頭), a bun featuring Kawabata’s signature, with reservations available one day in advance. These will surely make an ideal souvenir for fans of Kawabata. Besides Kawabata, the inn has also been frequented by another famous Japanese writer, Motojiro Kajii (梶井基次郎), the author of “Lemon”.

Yumotokan (湯本館)
Address: 1656-1 Yugashima, Izu City, Shizuoka 410-3206
Access: Take a bus from Shuzenji Station (修善寺駅) and alight at Yugashima (湯ヶ島) bus stop. From there, it is a 15-minute walk to the inn.

5. Joren Falls, Yugashima

Joren Falls or Joren no Taki, one of Japan’s top 100 falls, located in the upper reaches of the Kano River | Photo by photoAC

Just a 20-minute bus ride south from the inn will bring you to the iconic setting that inspired the story of “The Izu Dancer”. Joren Falls (浄蓮の滝), named after Jorenji Temple (浄蓮寺) which once stood nearby, measures 7m wide and 25m in height, earning its place among Japan’s top 100 falls.

A statue of a man and woman based on the novel “Izu no Odoriko” written by Yasunari Kawabata | Photo by photoAC

Upon arrival at Joren Falls, you will be greeted by the statues of a man and woman, characters directly inspired by Kawabata’s novel itself. Since the falls itself is the starting point of a trail that will bring you to Amagi Pass (天城峠), one of the locations that appears at the beginning of the novel, continuing with the trail further enriches the journey’s atmospheric as one is reminded of Kawabata’s own journey to Izu, where he encountered some wandering musicians, including the dancer who served as inspiration for his work.

Joren Falls (浄蓮の滝)
Address: 892-14 Yugashima, Izu, Shizuoka 410-3206
Access:  From Shuzenji Station (修善寺駅), take a bus bound for either Kawazu Station (河津駅) or Showa-no-Mori Kaikan (昭和の森会館), then get off at the Joren-no-Taki (浄蓮の滝) bus stop. From there, it is a 3-minute walk to the falls.

Immortalising Izu Peninsula

A region deeply cherished by literary greats for the healing properties of its land, the landscapes of the Izu Peninsula, immortalised in Japanese literature, continue to resonate deeply in the hearts of many, even as times continue to change. Hop on a train and journey to the Izu Peninsula to witness for yourselves the very locations that inspired these writers. Who knows, you might just discover a spark of inspiration of your own along the way!

In the meantime, it is not too late to get your hands on the Izu-exclusive Omiyage Snack Box by JAPAN RAIL CLUB this month! Titled “With Love, Izu”, it is a box full of snacks exclusive to the surrounding region of Izu and Shizuoka, as well as romantic motifs recalling Valentine’s Day and White Day that are unique celebrations celebrated in Japan. Subscribe by 29 February 2024 to secure this exciting snack box!