In the final stretch of this series (previously covering the Ishikawa stations of Komatsu and Kaga Onsen) on things to do around the new Hokuriku Shinkansen stations, I pull into Fukui Prefecture. Specifically, the four stations of Awaraonsen (芦原温泉駅), Fukui (福井駅), Echizen-Takefu (越前たけふ駅), and Tsuruga (敦賀駅).
Awaraonsen Station: Home to Fukui’s best onsen
As the name goes, the first stop I make coming from Ishikawa is found nearby Fukui’s most well-known onsen town. Getting to the onsen town itself from Awaraonsen Station requires quite a bit of travelling time. But as I quickly discovered, that doesn’t mean it’s not worth making a quick hop off the shinkansen!
From the Shinkansen gantry exit, dinosaur claw prints (as befitting of Fukui, which I will explain later) lead the way to the connecting entrance of the new tourism exchange facility, AFLARE, where dinosaurs enjoying a soak greet me.
The first area here serves as an interactive sightseeing and cultural information gallery, and I already take to the modern wooden decor, creatively incorporating onsen tubs and buckets.
Even though it’s all in Japanese, it’s still fun admiring the displays, especially the giant tub in the centre, where “catching” digital bubbles with a bucket (by hovering it over the display) reveals a sightseeing recommendation.
From the gallery windows, I also get a view of the beautiful architecture of the building’s atrium, with a wooden lattice ceiling.
I also spy a shop in the corner, and quickly make my way downstairs. Keeping up with the onsen aesthetic, this shop is also furnished with noren curtains and other cute props. It combines a dining and souvenir area.
The dining menu looks tempting and includes a wide range of Fukui specialties like kaisendon (海鮮丼) and Echizen soba (越前そば), but if you’re here too early like I was, there are plenty of unique snacks in the shop you could grab for your train journey.
AFLARE
Address: 1-12-18 Harumiya, Awara, Fukui 919-0632
Access: Next to Awaraonsen Station
In particular, sweet potato fans will be keen to know that sweet potatoes are one of Awara’s local specialties, which is why the shop carries over sweet potato treats from the onsen area, like pudding and melon pan!
Since I have some time, however, I walk just a little further out to find my snacks from some neighbourhood shops. First, just 100m to Inori (おむすびいのり), an onigiri store with more variety than your average conbini selection.
If you’re a mentaiko fan like me, you’ll be excited to know that there are as many as four mentaiko options. I decided to go for the full indulgence of the “mentaiko mayo cream cheese” (明太子マヨクリームチーズ). The best part is that each order is prepared on the spot, with warm freshly-steamed rice.
Inori (おむすびいのり)
Address: 1 Chome-9-41 Harumiya, Awara, Fukui 919-0632
Access: 2-minute walk from Awaraonsen Station
If you have time to take a further 10-minute stroll by the river just behind, I also suggest checking out the miso shop Aosei (青清).
Here, you get to admire not just the traditional home of this century-old business, but also some really good miso soft serve.
Aosei (青清)
Address: 1 Chome-1-17 Hananomori, Awara, Fukui 919-0633
Access: 13-minute walk from Awaraonsen Station
Fukui Station: Of crabs and dinosaurs
As the prefecture’s namesake station, the next stop needs little introduction. I will confess first that there’s way more to do here than I can cover in detail. Just know that if you have visited before the Shinkansen extension, you’ll probably be stunned as I was, by just how much more is happening around Fukui Station now.
For instance, the new station shopping street, CURU-F, is filled with shop booths offering local specialties from sweet to savoury. I won’t list the full variety, but instead focus on one Fukui specialty that I think would be of interest to many: crabs!
Crab lovers, rejoice, for you will be blessed with this crustacean in the form of snacks like senbei or even in a luxurious bento.
But if you want your crabs fresh, then continue further to the restaurant street.
CURU-F
Address: 1-1-25 Chuo, Fukui, 910-0006
Access: Inside Fukui Station
For more dining options, you can also walk out to food hall MINIE.
MINIE
Address: 1-3-5 Chuo, Fukui, 910-0006
Access: 3-minute walk from Fukui Station
If you’re around at night, there’s even the charming little Fukui Yatai Village (ふくい屋台村) hidden right below the tracks on the other side of the station.
Fukui Yatai Village (ふくい屋台村)
Address: 2-3411 Ote, Fukui, 910-0005
Access: 3-minute walk from Fukui Station
But enough about the food. The other Fukui specialty to note, which will be evident once you view the station facade, is dinosaurs!
That’s because Fukui is home to the largest dinosaur fossil excavation site, and also the largest dinosaur museum in Japan. While the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum (福井県立恐竜博物館) is located a distance in Katsuyama City (勝山市), you can still get those dinosaur pics all around Fukui Station.
For more natural, living sights though, I recommend taking a little stroll out to the Yokokan Garden (養浩館庭園). The tranquil garden recreates the residence of the former Fukui domain lords, centered around a lovely pond.
There’s also a teahouse with scenic views of the garden, and where public tea ceremony events are held for certain periods in spring and autumn. I can imagine it being gorgeous in autumn, with the thick foliage of maple trees all around.
Given the short walk from the station and the compact size of the garden, it’s definitely a worthy visit even if you’re just dropping by Fukui for a short while.
Yokokan Garden (養浩館庭園)
Address: 3-11-36 Hoei, Fukui, 910-0004
Access: 12-minute walk from Fukui Station
Echizen-Takefu Station: The purrfect respite
Moving along, I next arrive at the station of the small town of Takefu. Even in this rural part of Fukui however, I find more to do than expected!
For one, there’s a Roadside Station (道の駅 michi-no-eki) right next to the station. These are local produce stores found throughout Japan, including souvenirs and usually a small eatery or two. The one here has not just a soba stand and seafood restaurant, both offering Fukui specialties, but also a small sweets cafe.
In the shopping area, gifts (or snacks for yourself) you can bring home include cute dinosaur-themed pastries.
Roadside Station Echizen-Takefu (道の駅 越前たけふ)
Address: 38-5-1 Oyacho, Echizen, Fukui 915-0042
Access: Next to Echizen-Takefu Station
Again, there’s more than just food and shopping here. Just across from the station is the hidden viewpoint of Mount Iwauchi (岩内山), which takes no more than a 10-minute climb up a well-maintained path. Through a tranquil bamboo grove at that!
What this easy trek rewards you with is panoramic views of the station, to the backdrop of the mountains and fields beyond.
Mount Iwauchi (岩内山)
Address: Oyacho, Echizen, Fukui 915-0042
Access: 5-minute walk from Echizen-Takefu Station
For cat lovers, there is one more spot I would recommend. However, considering the distance (about a 30-minute walk), I would suggest renting one of the share cycles available at the station (requires application download, and a phone number and credit card usable in Japan).
Since the bikes are electric-powered, it will shorten the journey to no more than 15 minutes, and with minimal effort too.
The destination of interest is the Gotanjoji Temple (御誕生寺), also known as the “Cat Temple” for the 20 to 30 cats on site, cared for by their monks.
That said, there weren’t that many cats in the open when I visited, perhaps only about six or seven. Even then, it was a unique tranquil spot to enjoy some animal therapy, and meet other local cat lovers.
Gotanjoji (御誕生寺)
Address: 32-1-1 Shodencho, Echizen, Fukui 915-0043
Access: 30-minute walk from Echizen-Takefu Station
Tsuruga Station: Hokuriku Shinkansen’s terminal station
Lastly, we arrive at the terminal station of the Hokuriku Shinkansen, in the port city of Tsuruga. Do note that for this station, it is advisable to exit from the West Exit (not the one right by the Shinkansen concourse), since that’s where the town area is.
As you may have noticed a pattern by now, here too is a station-front gourmet, shopping, and community area, TSURUGA POLT SQUARE otta, consisting of two blocks of shops.
In the block closer to the station, are again restaurants and shops, but the main highlight for me here is the book store, TSURUGA BOOKS & COMMONS.
With the maze-like bookshelves creating an aesthetic and cosy interior, and ample sitting space, it’s just the sort of place I’d linger at to take a breather in the middle of travelling, or to idle in comfort while waiting for the next train. Although I didn’t get to try it this time, there’s also a cafe space with really good-looking matcha drinks and parfaits.
TSURUGA BOOKS & COMMONS
Address: 1-5-32 Kanawacho, Tsuruga, Fukui 914-0055
Access: Next to Tsuruga Station
The other block consists of restaurants, mostly seafood-based, from unagi hitsumabushi to kaisendon. And even a takeaway outlet, for yet another decadent crab bento option!
As for sightseeing, my lack of time this visit (after trying to cover four stations in one day) limited me to Kehi Jingu Shrine (氣比神宮), just 15 minutes on foot from the station.
This shrine holds great significance as the former chief guardian shrine of today’s Hokuriku Region. Notably, its stunning red gate is also known as one of Japan’s “Three Greatest Wooden Torii Gates”, alongside that of Hiroshima’s Itsukushima Shrine and Nara’s Kasuga-taisha Shrine.
The shrine compound itself is not very big, but I greatly enjoyed the atmosphere and rich greenery.
One last tip before hopping back on the Shinkansen: if you haven’t had your crab bento fix yet (or have space for another), do look out for the ekiben (駅弁) vending machine right at the Shinkansen platform! An affordable and simple yet satisfying bowl of crab-flavoured rice, topped with flavourful chunks of crab meat.
Kehi Jingu Shrine (氣比神宮)
Address: 11-68 Akebonocho, Tsuruga, Fukui 914-0075
Access: 15-minute walk from Tsuruga Station
All four stations in Fukui: Journey further on share-bikes!
From my experience this time, one important point I’d like to share is that attempting to visit all four stations in one day can be quite hectic. It would be more practical to pick just one or two stations, or stay the night, especially if you plan to explore attractions further out. Another efficient option to make your explorations more efficient is to use share-bikes!
Yes, even though I have only mentioned the ones at Echizen-Takefu in this article, all four stations actually have share-cycle ports, or in the case of Awara Onsen Station, a rental service that you can inquire about at the tourist information office. The share cycle service of the other three stations use the same docomo bike share app, in fact, the same one previously mentioned for Komatsu Station!
So it’s easy to use it at any of the stations once you’ve registered on the app. For Fukui City and Tsuruga City, you can also purchase a 1-day pass online or from a service counter.
I look forward to using it next time to visit Awara Onsen and the bay area of Tsuruga, being a port town. Especially the Kehi no Matsubara (気比の松原) pine beach, considered one of Japan’s “three most beautiful pine parks”. For now, these are my quick recommendations, and I definitely believe it’s worth stopping by at least one of these stations in Fukui if you’re passing through.
Be it for crabs, or a quick dose of nature therapy.
Header image credit: Hui Min
