Kawadoko (川床, riverside dining) is one of those quintessentially Kyoto traditions that must be experienced firsthand in the ancient capital to be truly appreciated. Each summer, restaurants and inns along the Kamogawa, Kibune, and Kiyotaki rivers open their riverside terraces to guests looking to relax and enjoy a delectable meal next to the cool, gentle currents of the river’s waters. While all are located in Kyoto, each of these sites offers its unique take on kawadoko dining. Discover which location below best meets your travel needs.
Nestled in the mountains north of Kyoto city, Kibune (貴船) is one of Japan’s most sought-after places for experiencing kawadoko. Home to the venerated Kifune Shrine (貴船神社), Kibune is a popular destination year-round. However, its kawadoko riverside terraces are possibly the premier highlight of this serene mountain town.
Kibune Nakayoshi
Built directly over the water, the terraces allow guests to dip their toes in the gently flowing stream as they enjoy traditional kaiseki cuisine at one of the many restaurants and inns lining the Kibune River. Kibune is a must for anyone looking to be transported to a simpler time of Japanese tradition and beauty.
Where to start: The Japanese inn Kibune Nakayoshi offers reasonable-priced lunch courses during the summer kawadoko season. With terraces built directly on top of the river, this is a great place to enjoy an authentic kawadoko dining experience.
Kibune Nakayoshi (貴船 仲よし)
Address: 71, Kuramakibunecho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 601-1112
Access: 7-minute drive from Kibuneguchi Station (貴船口駅)
Takao Kinsutei
Another hidden gem among Kyoto’s various kawadoko locations is Takao’s Kiyotaki River (清滝川). The river and its surrounding scenery present a picturesque setting for savouring a carefully prepared Japanese meal at the cool water’s edge. Kiyotaki is more rugged than its Kamogawa and Kibune cousins, but it is this contrast that gives Takao and the Kiyotaki River their true appeal. While a bit harder to reach than Kibune or Kamogawa, Kiyotaki and its pristine natural landscape offers an experience far removed from the bustling crowds of Japan’s major tourist destinations. If you’re lucky and visit in June, you may just get to see some fireflies as twilight sets in as well.
Where to start: For a fully immersive experience in the aesthetic and culinary traditions of Japan, stay at Kinsuitei and discover the tastes, sights, and sounds of this ancient archipelago. While a bit pricier than a standard lunch course, you are guaranteed to leave with memories that will last a lifetime.
Takao Kinsutei (高雄 錦水亭)
Address: 40, Tonohatacho Umegahata, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8293
Access: 10-minute drive from Hanazono Station
Atlantis
Kamogawa (鴨川) is by far the most famous site of the three locations for experiencing kawadoko. The very name “Kyoto” conjures up images of this river and the many terraces lining its waters. Not only is Kamogawa the most recognizable location for kawadoko, it also offers the widest variety of restaurants and shops to select from. In addition to traditional kaiseki courses, here you’ll find restaurants offering all types of cuisine from Italian to Thai. There’s even a bar where you can enjoy tasty cocktails alongside the river at night. Kamogawa is a great choice for travellers looking for affordable options and a convenient location to experience kawadoko. There’s something for everyone.
Where to start: For a unique take on the kawadoko experience, visit the bar Atlantis and imbibe your beverage of choice as you watch the night unfold along the Kamogawa River. If you’re looking for a quick and easy way to relax along the river without the fuss of a full course, Atlantis has you covered.
Atlantis (アトランティス)
Address: 161, Matsumotocho, Pontochodori Shijonoboru, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8013
Access: 5-minute walk from Shijo Kawaramachi Bus Stop.
Header image credit: photoAC
